Where to wire Vtec to harness- 92 civic vx
I have a 1992 Honda civic vx, the plug is gone on the vtec solenoid so I'm wondering if I could just wire it directly to the harness, I'm just really not sure which spot the vtec was supposed to hook up or which colors should go where, I appreciate any help
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So it hooks into the orange wires, but which one goes in which, I have two green wires coming off my vtec solenoid, one has a line through it and other doesn't, and are there only two wires that are supposed to be hooked up for vtec to work or more?
(note for all 92 Civics the VTEC is already ran on the shock tower to ECU harness so using an EX/SI 92-95 engine harness will make VTEC plug and play. See figure 5)
VX - D15Z1
For VTEC wiring see above pic. For knock sensor and IAB wiring see above pic (if using the chipped P28 you won’t need to wire IAB or knock sensor). If your VX has 7 wires you will need to wire up to make it 4 wire (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/)
VX - D15Z1
Reuse VTEC solenoid and pressure switch wiring for plug and play. If your VX has 7 wires you will need to wire up to make it 4 wire (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/)
CX/VX - D15B8/D15Z1
Plug and play. For 1 wire CX models you will need to wire in the additional 3 wires for the 4 wire O2 (see figure 1). If your VX has 7 wires you will need to wire up to make it 4 wire (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/). All else is plug and play.
EX/Si/VX - D16Z6/D15Z1
Mostly plug and play. VTEC plug and play. Knock sensor will not be used for the P28 ECU. The EX/Si/VX distributor will not bolt up to the Y8 head exactly. You can use it but not all legs will bolt up. To use the Y8 distributor you will need an OBD2A or OBD2B to OBD1 adapter harness. The intake air temperature sensor is not located on the intake manifold of the Y8’s so you will need to relocate your IAT sensor in the intake arm (figure 3) OR use the Z6/Z1 manifold which will bolt up to the Y8 head fine. Reuse the Z6 injectors as the Y8’s will not plug in correctly. For the VX you will need to use some EX/SI/DX injectors for similar Y8 flow rates. Also reuse the Z6/Z1 alternator as the Y8 uses a different plug style. CKF sensor by the crank on the Y8 will not be used tie it out of the way. For the VX model use the above instructions to convert the 5 wire O2 to 4 wire (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/).
EX/SI/VX - D16Z6/D15Z1
Mostly plug and play. VTEC plug and play. Knock sensor will not be used for the P28 ECU but will for all others. To use the A2/C1/C5 distributor you will need an OBD2A or OBD2B to OBD1 adapter harness. The intake air temperature sensor is not located on the intake manifold of the A2 so you will need to relocate your IAT sensor in the intake arm (see pic). Reuse the Z6 injectors as the A2/C1/C2 will not plug in correctly. For the VX you will need to use some EX/SI/DX injectors for similar A2 flow rates. You will need to use an OBD1 B series alternator for plug and play. CKF sensor by the crank on the A2/C1/C5 will not be used tie it out of the way. For the VX model use the above instructions to convert the 5 wire O2 to 4 wire (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/).
EX/SI/VX/DX/CX - D16Z6/D15Z1/D15B7/D15B8
Mostly plug and play. For the distributor you will need to use an OBD1 B18 for plug and play or use an OBD2 LS dizzy with an adapter harness. Alternator will need to be OBD1 B series for plug and play. For EX/SI/DX you can reuse the EX/SI/DX injectors, for VX/CX find some EX/DX/SI injectors for plug and play. CKF sensor by crank will not be used. For 1 wire O2 CX models figure 1 instructions for conversion to 4 wire O2. For VX 7 wire O2 use above instruction to wire up for 4 wire (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/).
EX/SI/DX/CX/VX - D16Z6/D15Z1/D15B7/D15B8
Mostly plug and play. The alternator will plug in as the OBD0 and OBD1 alternator plugs are the same. For injectors you will need to reuse the EX/SI/DX injectors and for CX/VX find some EX/SI/DX injectors and use those. The fan switch location is different for the OBD0 engine and is on the back of the block. You will have to rewire the fan switch from the thermostat housing of your engine to the back of the block. The wiring order doesn’t matter so you will need either some connectors from a junk yard or some way to wire it up to that location (see pics below). For VX 7 wire O2’s (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/) and CX 1 wire O2 use figure 1 to rewire for 4 wire.
VX - D15Z1
For VTEC wiring see above pic. For knock sensor and IAB wiring see above pic (if using the chipped P28 you won’t need to wire IAB or knock sensor). If your VX has 7 wires you will need to wire up to make it 4 wire (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/)
VX - D15Z1
Reuse VTEC solenoid and pressure switch wiring for plug and play. If your VX has 7 wires you will need to wire up to make it 4 wire (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/)
CX/VX - D15B8/D15Z1
Plug and play. For 1 wire CX models you will need to wire in the additional 3 wires for the 4 wire O2 (see figure 1). If your VX has 7 wires you will need to wire up to make it 4 wire (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/). All else is plug and play.
OBD2 engine/OBD1 ECU into OBD1 Vehicle
(note for all 92 Civics the VTEC is already ran on the shock tower to ECU harness so using an EX/SI 92-95 engine harness will make VTEC plug and play.)EX/Si/VX - D16Z6/D15Z1
Mostly plug and play. VTEC plug and play. Knock sensor will not be used for the P28 ECU. The EX/Si/VX distributor will not bolt up to the Y8 head exactly. You can use it but not all legs will bolt up. To use the Y8 distributor you will need an OBD2A or OBD2B to OBD1 adapter harness. The intake air temperature sensor is not located on the intake manifold of the Y8’s so you will need to relocate your IAT sensor in the intake arm (figure 3) OR use the Z6/Z1 manifold which will bolt up to the Y8 head fine. Reuse the Z6 injectors as the Y8’s will not plug in correctly. For the VX you will need to use some EX/SI/DX injectors for similar Y8 flow rates. Also reuse the Z6/Z1 alternator as the Y8 uses a different plug style. CKF sensor by the crank on the Y8 will not be used tie it out of the way. For the VX model use the above instructions to convert the 5 wire O2 to 4 wire (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/).
EX/SI/VX - D16Z6/D15Z1
Mostly plug and play. VTEC plug and play. Knock sensor will not be used for the P28 ECU but will for all others. To use the A2/C1/C5 distributor you will need an OBD2A or OBD2B to OBD1 adapter harness. The intake air temperature sensor is not located on the intake manifold of the A2 so you will need to relocate your IAT sensor in the intake arm (see pic). Reuse the Z6 injectors as the A2/C1/C2 will not plug in correctly. For the VX you will need to use some EX/SI/DX injectors for similar A2 flow rates. You will need to use an OBD1 B series alternator for plug and play. CKF sensor by the crank on the A2/C1/C5 will not be used tie it out of the way. For the VX model use the above instructions to convert the 5 wire O2 to 4 wire (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/).
EX/SI/VX/DX/CX - D16Z6/D15Z1/D15B7/D15B8
Mostly plug and play. For the distributor you will need to use an OBD1 B18 for plug and play or use an OBD2 LS dizzy with an adapter harness. Alternator will need to be OBD1 B series for plug and play. For EX/SI/DX you can reuse the EX/SI/DX injectors, for VX/CX find some EX/DX/SI injectors for plug and play. CKF sensor by crank will not be used. For 1 wire O2 CX models figure 1 instructions for conversion to 4 wire O2. For VX 7 wire O2 use above instruction to wire up for 4 wire (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/).
EX/SI/DX/CX/VX - D16Z6/D15Z1/D15B7/D15B8
Mostly plug and play. The alternator will plug in as the OBD0 and OBD1 alternator plugs are the same. For injectors you will need to reuse the EX/SI/DX injectors and for CX/VX find some EX/SI/DX injectors and use those. The fan switch location is different for the OBD0 engine and is on the back of the block. You will have to rewire the fan switch from the thermostat housing of your engine to the back of the block. The wiring order doesn’t matter so you will need either some connectors from a junk yard or some way to wire it up to that location (see pics below). For VX 7 wire O2’s (diagram here http://www.hybridautomotive.com/tech/o2/) and CX 1 wire O2 use figure 1 to rewire for 4 wire.
yea mine must have different wires from the original cuz all i have is two green wires coming off where i believe it connects to the pressure switch
and the wires coming off the pressure switch are the only ones i need to wire into the harness correct? and i'm new to honda's, sorry that this is confusing to me
also can someone tell me what this is and where it goes... When i bought the car it was just hanging there and i have no idea where to mount it or what it even does..b
It looks like you need a new connector on both of those. Te sensor on the left is missing the connector and your pressure switch looks broken. It's hard to tell from the pic as its blurry but is there a plug on it or is the sensor broken? The part in your other pics is the EGR, are you still using the VX engine?
oh and also does anyone know what this issue could be... when i'm driving my car(mostly once it gets hot) the speedometer will start jumping upwards from the speed that i am going and it makes a clicking noise. is this a short somewhere or corrosion or something and where would i check, which wires are the speedometer signal wires that control your speedometer
I have another issue now, when my car gets warm it won't go above 3100rpms, it bounces like its hitting the governor or something, but it can't be since when it's cold or not as warm it doesn't do it
how much of a difference does the egr make in fuel economy? because apparently my intake manifold isn't stock so i could buy a new intake manifold for it that could use the EGR, but realistically is it worth it? and would anyone have one that i could buy?
why do most people on this forum post up blurry *** pictures?
And the EGR isn't really for fuel economy, it is for pollution control. A problem with the EGR WILL throw a code and depending on where you get it inspected might fail you too.
That of course is only for cars that are originally equipped with an EGR.
What ECU are you using? If that ECU came from a car with EGR, you'll need one or a trick bypass
And the EGR isn't really for fuel economy, it is for pollution control. A problem with the EGR WILL throw a code and depending on where you get it inspected might fail you too.
That of course is only for cars that are originally equipped with an EGR.
What ECU are you using? If that ECU came from a car with EGR, you'll need one or a trick bypass





