For a mildy built street engine b18c say around 200whp with pistons cams bolt ons, would a vented valve cover ( 2 -10 bungs) and stock pcv be sufficient for crank ventilation. Or is venting the back of the block through the 2 ports while removing the stock pcv system required. I've read many success stories of using both. However most of the things I read about crank ventilation are always about turbo'd hondas.

Will the stock pcv system hinder my engine at high revs, will removing it create unwanted problems ie: sludge. From what I understand a vented system would be for a car that see's alot of WOT, while a street car would be better off with a pcv. This will be in a street car.

 

the pcv is pretty important on a street car because of the sludge issue, I'm working on some ideas now to make mine function better yet still function, the main issue is that at WOT the PCV becomes non functional, throttle plates wide open, no vacuum, no PCV, and this is when you have the most crankcase pressure, you do need a vented catch can off of the valve cover, as when the PCV isnt working, blowby will blow oil mist out the breather at the valve cover. I'm looking at combining an exhaust scavenge system with the pcv so I have the best possible crankcase vacuum, in my case, with my vintage car, I dont have a converter anymore, and I have a straight through muffler, with a scavenge system, it will contaminate your converter, and a chambered muffler wont work

 

I heard using exhuast scavenging is illegal in some drag race brackets. I think moroso has a full kit for cheap i heard either that or summit

I read some of this stuff off the faq's. So would the valve cover venting be sufficient in my case? Or u saying more is needed hence the exhuast scavenging

 

it really depends on what you intend to use, as far as whether it's illegal, you need to check the rules for your class, it's supposed to be illegal on a street car, but my car is considered an antique here, and no emissions rules, if you were to run a scavege system on the street, definitely run a good oil separator to keep most of the oil out of the exhaust, in my case combining the two lets one system take over when the other fails

 

oh i see, u can get away with it cause your car is historic! lol, what about for us that need to pass emissions. On the faq I read one guy making big power, and running just headers said the system was pointless. The hp gains were minimal if any and it just made a big mess cause oil would shoot out the headers.

 

i just got a brilliant idea, why don't I just run the endyn catch can with the pcv installed isntead of the breather?

 

im using stock pcv system so far over 6000 miles no problems
no sludge no blowby or smoke at startup or wot
just a bit of oil vapor in intake pipe (not a coat but just a lil bit )

but I didn't just put together I cleaned the pcv pipes and vaves and everything else

when do I need an upgraded venting system?

 

i have a oem internal b20vtec allmotor making 200whp with a 6 port catch can that i made, using 10an for the shose size. i know its overkill for allmotor but its for when i go turbo. i recommend not using the oem pcv setup, i would run atleast the fittings off the back of the block to a catch can.

 

TB only had one catch can and that was only 2 ports on his VC non on his block and he was making 350+ on a B

 

Just what I had to do...

Once I started spinning the motor past 9k and making NA power above 230hp Is when I needed to upgrade my pcv system to the two rear breather ports on the back of the block. I used the dipstick as the judge for weather or not I needed to upgrade the PCV system. Once the dipstick started blowing out under WOT and coating my immaculate engine bay with oil then I upgraded. If your dipstick isnt blowing out dont waste your money.

 

lol, I know the feeling

 

can I use a vacuum/boost gauge to see if I need the breather system upgraded?
if I have a Neptune I can just use an OEM map sensor and install it into the pcv system to read the vacuum/pressure and wire it up to one of the inputs on Neptune.

 

he just said its necessary unless you're blowing out your dipstick.

"coating my immaculate engine bay" I lol'd

I checked out Tbmotorworx setup also. very impressive.

raver ur setup is almost indentical to mine. its scary

 

you forget, if you can pull a decent vaccume on the crankcase, you get rid of pumping losses, and improve your ring seal, it's a well proven way of making some extra power thats been around for years

 

No I dont "forget" its just not necessary for most set ups and im sure that unless your creating enough crankcase pressure to blow out the dipstick then your probably not making enough power to see any real measurable gains from a scavenging set up.

 

I have 4 inputs on Neptune and sensor units are cheap lol Im gonna get some sensors and see what they show

 

thank you a real technical, proven response!!! i've seen soo many setups have blow by issues and blown motors that would have ran better and lasted longer with a proper catch can setup.

 

i started building my can today, had some of it done yesterday, I built the internal baffles, then I spent about the last three hours making the bottom of the can, and it's threaded inlet and inlet tube. those needs to be welded in, and I still need to make the top of the can

 

catch can going together, the basic can is together, baffles are installed, bottom is on, but not welded, and I need to make the top, I was going to make the bracket, but Morroso sells the same bracket, that is on their 200 dollar can, for under 13 bucks, fits 3 inch to 3.750 cans, universal. the inlet from the factory breather box is on the bottom with a tube riser, I'll just empty it from time to time, if it should go over the top of the tube, it will simply flow back to the factory breather box. There are more baffles inside, but they can't be seen, I'm going to follow the advice I have seen over and over, fill the top with nylon scrub pads, I've even heard those bath poof things are excellent oil catchers, funny, but true, I'm putting a piece of filter foam in the top under the lid anyway, so no debris can make it into the PCV system, but if anything does, those nylon pieces wont do any damage, that's why you don't use steel wool. the threads are 1/2 NPT so I can use a -10 line, this is a 1/2 to -8 adapter, just to check fitting clearance, I'll make the top next week

 

this cracks me up thinking about it, how many guys driving around high horsepower cars with pink or purple bath poof things stuffed in the catch cans? lol, whatever works, apparently from searching quite a few of them are. they are nylon, so the oil doesnt damage them, and they have a million surfaces to trap oil

 

I fill my back pressure sensor cans with stainless steel wool and its never been an issue. Typically, with a catch can, once the oil sling hits a wall or plate it will stick and not carry through the air. I don't think you will need anything like a loofa or steel wool. Your can will work as is, but you'll want a good breather on top.

 

breather? this is the sealed one for the PCV system, the breather is on the catch can for the valve cover, I found something interesting though, I had one of those air line oil traps, but the fittings were too small, the oil trap element itself, unscrews from inside the trap, and the threads are 1/2 NPT, just like the one I'm building, basically I can put threads on the inside of the lid and it screws right on, the only issue is the sintered bronze element is kind of restrictive, I'm looking for another element thats not as restrictive, the one from the commercial oil trap also has the plastic deflector built right into it

 

Personally if you can fit a larger can then do it. It shouldnt need anything inside of it as Tepid already stated. larger is better gives more of a chance for the oil to seporate from the air before being recirculated back into the engine. Either way you will over time end up with some oily residue inside your intake manifold liek the stock system does. Large lines and tank will slow that process down a lot.

I would put a 10an fitting welded onto the black box in place of the stock pcv fitting for best ventilation with minimal oil movement into the catch can. You can also put a couple fittings off the front of the valve cover but for that kind of HP its not nessesary especially for all motor your rings gaps shouldnt be very big

 

I already did that, the factory breather box on these has a big plastic fitting in the top for the hose, once thats pried out, it's simple to weld on a bung, hehe you said BUNG!! I need teepee for my bung hole!! I ran -10 from the box, which is actually pretty decent for this year, I dont see the point of actually removing it, it's there,it works, I'm just adding to it to catch the rest of the oil is all, the point of running a large line to the PCV valve, then a smaller line after it, is to slow down air velocity, this helps the oil to fall out of the air, my factory box was also insulated, if the oil/water vapor gets too cold before the water vapor can escape, it will condense back in the breather box and go back to the pan, I welded in a piece of thick wall tubing into mine, and tapped both ends for 1/8 NPT, I run some coolant through it to keep the box hot

 

i just set up my lsvtec with the back of the block fittings from the old prelude si's. they use 2 half inch ports that i ran to a small catchcan about the size of a soda can i made out of scrap leftover steel. i get a bit of vapor and a tiny bit of that catch can smell but it doesnt fill dramatically or overflow just gives a place for gas to escape. i plugged the black box hole with an expandable rubber freeze plug like i did on my turbo car