I bought a 04 Rsx Type S with blown engine. The head is still good but the bottom end has a hole in the block. The car has a bolt on Greddy Turbo Kit.

I would probably prefer to keep the k20a2 in it, however, I can purchase a complete k24a2 for a $1000 (better value).

Has anybody seen any dyno results with this setup?

Btw, I'm not looking to build a drag car. The main priority is a fun driving experience, it will be daily driven. Having said that, the powerband of the Greddy kit with the k20a2 is ideal, but the k24a2 is cheaper.

I'm wondering if the k24a2 may have too much torque around 3000 to 4000 rpms and effectively just spin the tires off.

Here are some k20a2 with greddy kit dynos to get a better idea of the powerband. Notice it's a smaller turbo so it already puts down a lot of torque early in the powerband:

http://www.evans-tuning.com/dynos/20...o-315whp242tq/

http://www.evans-tuning.com/forums/v...hp?f=28&t=4484

http://www.evans-tuning.com/dynos/20...whp225tq-9lbs/

 

Not really. The T517Z from that kit did very well for what it did. it's a quick- moving, responsive turbo setup that is made for the lower end torque of both the K24 and K20 engines. "Spinning tyres" is just going to happen regardless of platform. Its a fun setup that isn't made for drag racing anyway, so you should enjoy it.

 

Good points, I'm fairly keen on trying the k24a2 due to the price tag and increase in torque...although I'm also considering how the powerband will mate with the original Type S 6 speed gearbox (which I'll be keeping). I don't plan on revving the stock k24a2 (even with a k20a2 oil pump) must higher than it's factory rev limit of 7600 rpms. I don't want it to fall out of vtec despite the relatively fat lower powerband of turbo when i shift at the limit to the next gear.

Also updated the dyno graph links...noticed the links were broken

 

okay.. So that means, you like it, and therefore you should keep it. enjoy

 

I have spent a ton of cash on Quaife LSD, lots of suspension, and sticky tires and it is as if I was trying to build a FWD drift car.

FWD+HP=Wheelspin on the street "regardless".

 

With boost by gear, traction control, and decent tires you can lay down 350-400whp effectively. Anything above that becomes a crap shoot

Although rwd with 600rwhp 580+ tq with 365/45/20 Michelin pilot sport cups and traction control is a ******* joke lol. 1st is pointless, 2nd even more so, 3rd is halfway usable. And this is a c6 z06 that does regular track events/days. It's kinda fun to terrorize fresh tarmac

 

True, I'm used FWD + HP=Wheelspin at 4500 rpms, not at 3000 rpms. It's all relative though, I'm over analyzing it. But I want to be content with it when its done.

Just trying to outweigh pros and cons before dropping it in. K24a2 has more torque, most likely less reliable at least when revving high (lower R/S ratio), yet cheaper (but needs additional parts to install driving up the cost). Flip a coin...

 

Sounds like fun, reminds of a top gear episode with Clarkson describing the zr1..."you'd have to be bonkers to buy the vette, and that is why you should"...

I plan for this to be below 350 whp so not much of a crap shoot per say, but with more low end torque than what I'm used to. We'll see what happens

 

Don't worry about the R/S so much (over thinking again). You don't NEED to rev high to get a good overall powerband on a K24A2 anyway. I have one myself. one of the best of the K-series engines made, and do very well with smaller-midrange turbochargers for road racing. As for FWD Drift? Well, only you can work on that one.