This was my first rebuild and i guess i didnt do too good if it spun. Motor os a d16z6 top amd bottom got up to 987 miles then knock knock guess who. So a friend says i can drop the pan wiggle the rods and which ever one move change the bearings and im good. Im 50/50 on it. Kinda broke right now and dont haVe cash to buy another long block. I think it was my oil pressure fudged me. Idk but i need to dix this asap.

 

I agree with dropping the pan and doing what ur friend said just make sure u keep ur work area squeaky clean also since u have the pan off maybe change out oil pump while ur down there if u didn't do it on the rebuild


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My guess would be that you ran the wrong clearances. The crank really should be checked for damage.

 

Ok will do. But the oil pump is brand new. I had the wrong one on at first a y7 one and found a free new z6 oil pump so i swapped it out. I hate the oil light on hondas, when that light comes on its too late. And ill check for damage to the crank.

 

is it boosted?


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

 

Did you check tolerances when you put it together? Pulling the oil pan will give you access to the bottom end and allow you to check which bearings are bad and replace them. If you caught it early, there shouldnt be much if any damage.

 

you can put a 1/8 male bsp to 1/8 female npt adapter on there, and get an idiot light sender with the pressure range you want, I would put in a gauge asap

 

No i didnt check tolerance. I rebuilt it cause it was free and had a oil leak in the head so i figured the bottom end was fresh because it never threw a rod before or blew a head gasket. I will be getting a oil pressure gauge asap. Fudge the stock light!!!!! Ughhh im so pissed lol. No its not boosted but i am running a6 pistons for higher comp. I drove no more than 20 miles after i heard it start knocking and called someone to pull me home. I ran it hard on the highway 2nd third and 4th and did 6 1/2 rpm in each. Then after i hit 100 mph
Thats when it started. I figured im at 980+ miles the motor should have been broken in by then for me to rev high. Idk its my first build. I did better than some other builders i know.

 

Well there's your problem...you can't just slap **** together and expect it to work.

Half-assed build = half-assed results

 

you're not a builder. you just threw **** together.

 

Lol because i didnt check tolerance its a half *** build? I doubt that. If tolerence was and issue it would have knocked 900 miles ago. I didnt throw this together like you make it sound. Im learning

Hahahahaaaaaaaa and "professional" builders have never spun a rod before huh? I seen a 18,000$ motor shoot a rod out the block, so if your right summit racing isnt a builder either. Watch everyone @doood will turn me into a real builder. lmao

 

Yes. And it's an issue because it's messed up now. You think it's a success because it lasted 900 miles?

I'm learning.
That's seems to be the common excuse used when someone does something half-assed these days.

 

As long as you get something out of this, its not a total loss. But for the record, you must check tolerances in the bottom end. If you slap it together randomly, it'll run for a while, but eventually it'll eat itself (sooner rather than later).

Here's a great reference that helped me build my first few engines: http://www.evans-tuning.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=326

If you follow his steps carefully (and some of them dont pertain to you), you shouldnt have any issues with reliability. The first engine I built following Jeff's build was an Eagle/CP LS/VTEC and that beast is still running strong at ~400whp (5 years, numerous drag passes, and ~20k miles later). Its all about attention to detail.

 

Thats for the thread 66. It will be used


@grumpy You just cant seem to look at the cup half full can you? No $hit Im happy with it running for 900 miles. I'd take that over a rod through the block any day. Get a grip "im learning" was my own constructive criticism, not an excuse. I didnt know nor was i taught how to build, i just did it. Now let me fine tune with or without your help sir!

 

Ignorance in the Information Age is no excuse. This is the classic example of "Do it right. Do it once." just in reverse. Do it wrong. Do it over and over.

How long has that link to Evans Tuning been on the net? Years. How did you not come across it when researching how to build your engine? Hint; You didn't do any research.

And all I ever worry about is the half empty part of the glass. The full part is already taken care of. But this is a poor analogy. When working on cars the glass is either full, or empty. There's no half doing anything when it comes to cars. Otherwise you get people building engines and not checking clearances.

 

don't turn the engine on any more. you MIGHT be able to save the crank

 

uh, yea?

i double check everything i do whether it's a simple valve adjustment or taking my wheels off.

how you can rebuild a motor and not check clearances is mind boggling. i'm curious how you determined what bearings to use in the first place?

 

the problem was at the beginning already because the rotating assembly was not balance to tolerance it cause small amount of vibration not enough to throw it off at start but enough to in the long run i would not only check 1 but all the journal as I'm pretty sure when a rods knock it cause enough vibration to throw all other bearing off and start eating into all journal just my 2 cent.


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Im going to take the motor out and have my local shop see the damage. Haha altho i have admitted i did little to no research when i started. I feel as if my confession has done little to suffice your need to repeat what i did wrong as if i am incapable of retaining criticial imformation. I get it $@#¥ is serious! Lol If only i would have read your sig before hand i would have understood your need to excessively taunt my ignorance. .20,000+ posts haha i see your no rookie, where do you find time to do all of your research Lol.

Plenty of reasons they go out. My problem was an assembly error. Glad we've pointed that out a million times lol please tell me you're the best builder who never had an engine mess up.

I just went to my local advanced auto and asked for std size bearings. I see where i was wrong in that lol. Please grump dont post another word about where i fudged up i swear im going to jump in traffic! Just tell me what to look for when i remove this main bearing cap. No never mind ill go research it my self jaha.

 

sorry to burst ur bubble but your friend is misguiding you.... you throw new bearings in where the bad one is. you will chew the new bearing up quickly because the rod journal is already scared. if that crank does not get repolished or you buy a new crank to fit u have nothing to work with.... your better off finding a short or long block by the time u get this fixed correctly u will have more then 500 invested. you can take ur friends advise and throw a bearing in there but every story ive heard of someone trying this has failed within a month. you can buy a new crank or used one off ebay and put all new bearings in but they must be Torqued correctly and take ur time . this way will cost about 200-300 if u take ur time and do it yourself. your looking at 300-400 replacing the oil pump and pick up as im sure they are loaded with shavings now. that whole block needs flushed as well. you cheap out and do a half *** job its not going to last a while and u will be wasting time and money because u will be buying a new motor in the end anyway. if you don't know what your doing and ur taking this engine to a shop to be looked at ur wasting money already as just inspecting ur motor will cost 100 bucks without them fixing anything or to tell u the bottom end is trashed. your best bet is to take it easy on the car and make sure it has thick oil in it and find a replacement ASAP

 

To everyone: I think Gemar got the point...no sense continuing to harass him. Lets stop belittling him and instead, try to give useful advice rather than condemnation. People make mistakes and as long as you learn from it, you're better off. I reserve the right to delete any further posts which continue to 'beat a dead horse' so to speak.

Gemar: A set of Standard bearings isn't necessarily going to work for what you need. If the main bearings are shot, there are like 4 different versions from Honda PLUS all the aftermarket oversized bearings. Rods are a bit simpler, but even still, without seeing the condition of the crank/rod journals, buying a set of standard bearings and slapping them in could yield the same results as before. I would have the crank measured and inspected prior to ordering anything. Once you do order bearings, buy a set of green plastigauge and check all tolerances prior to final assembly.

**If you follow the Jeff Evans build thread (above), you shouldnt have any issues...again its about attention to detail**

 

Agreed, Everything on cars is detail. That's how you know a good build- the car as a whole is the sum of all the details. Junky cars tend to be owned by slobs-
OP- best of luck take your time and be **** about clearances. That's why these outlast most american engines oem is because Honda (Japanese) tolerances are very strict and unfortunately, American standards are pretty lax.

 

Well i see the OP has been completely honest, which is a good thing...

He has learned his lesson and luckily it is on a d16 not a b18c5 so he is not in too bad of shape.

OP, if you are in the SE region of the US i have 2 engines i can sell.. I have 2 d16y7 complete swaps that both run and drive great. If you are in need of a engine let me know maybe we can work something out.