DPFI to MPFI throttle issue
Wassup everyone.
Car: 1990 Civic DX
Swap: dpfi - mpfi conversion, si intake manifold, PM6 ECU
*stock DX harness was used along with some wires from an si harness
*EF SI dizzy installed
So I've looked all over the place for vacuum and coolant diagrams, got em all. Looked all over for wiring diagrams for the dpfi to mpfi, got em all... Now that i've completed the conversion and i finally got the car running (idling fine with no misfires, i should say), this is the problem:
- the car wont let me rev passed 3,200rpm
It's stuck on that safety mode stuff and the only time i've experienced this issue with other cars is the there is a MAP or MAF sensor issue.
I've tried to search for info on this but nothing. I tried searching on here as well and nothing shows up on the issue.
Now there were 2 plugs left over but no where to plug them in. One is round with 2 pins and the other is a bit squared with 2 pins (and im sorry for not having the wire colors but i just though of it now and i will update this in a few hours with the wire colors.)
I did read that there will be 2 wires left over anyway... but maybe u guys know something i dont about this
So wtf is the issue? And how do i solve it... where can i look.. any info might help
Car: 1990 Civic DX
Swap: dpfi - mpfi conversion, si intake manifold, PM6 ECU
*stock DX harness was used along with some wires from an si harness
*EF SI dizzy installed
So I've looked all over the place for vacuum and coolant diagrams, got em all. Looked all over for wiring diagrams for the dpfi to mpfi, got em all... Now that i've completed the conversion and i finally got the car running (idling fine with no misfires, i should say), this is the problem:
- the car wont let me rev passed 3,200rpm
It's stuck on that safety mode stuff and the only time i've experienced this issue with other cars is the there is a MAP or MAF sensor issue.
I've tried to search for info on this but nothing. I tried searching on here as well and nothing shows up on the issue.
Now there were 2 plugs left over but no where to plug them in. One is round with 2 pins and the other is a bit squared with 2 pins (and im sorry for not having the wire colors but i just though of it now and i will update this in a few hours with the wire colors.)
I did read that there will be 2 wires left over anyway... but maybe u guys know something i dont about this
So wtf is the issue? And how do i solve it... where can i look.. any info might help
Last edited by ELeMeNTs153; May 23, 2013 at 11:13 AM.
-PM6 ECU
-SI dizzy installed (OBD1)
That is your problem
Get the correct OBD0 distributor.
You can not mix OBD0 and OBD1 ECU and distributor.
They have a reluctor wheel inside that has teeth on it.
OBD1 has more teeth and will send the wrong signal to the OBD0 ECU.
-SI dizzy installed (OBD1)
That is your problem
Get the correct OBD0 distributor.
You can not mix OBD0 and OBD1 ECU and distributor.
They have a reluctor wheel inside that has teeth on it.
OBD1 has more teeth and will send the wrong signal to the OBD0 ECU.
Did you flip the TPS wires?
Last edited by 4drEF; May 23, 2013 at 12:26 PM. Reason: deleted thought to switch white wires on distributor. It would result in a no start - no the case here.
any codes showing on the ECU? - usually, when it won't rev past 3000-3500 it is a problem with the distributor or distributor wiring and you will have a code 4 for the crank sensor
The cap was cracked and i had to swap it with my DX cap... also the tooth on the other side that spins with the cams (soooo sorry but i forgot the name of that part lol but its not the rotor) was broken and i took apart my DX dizzy and fitted that part onto the SI dizzy as well.
Anyway, i'll try to swap dizzy's with someone else and also i'll check the connections and stuff..
The CEL is on, i'd have to look into how i'll get the codes since its not OBD2
But if the dizzy is fucked, wouldn't it cause a misfire ?
(wat a mess lol)
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I will double check that again once the weather here in NY clears up
Now I'm curious what you really did inside your distributor.
#4 is a distributor sensor
It is actually the sensor that reads the reluctor wheel with the teeth on it that I mentioned being different for OBD1.
I wonder if it's different from DPFI to MPFI as well?
I think you mentioned that you replaced yours with the one from DPFI.
These are the two wires you moved from C1 C2 to B10 B12 when you did the MPFI conversion.
You can check those for continuity and make sure they are going to the right place on the ECU when you get around to working on the car again.
#4 is a distributor sensor
It is actually the sensor that reads the reluctor wheel with the teeth on it that I mentioned being different for OBD1.
I wonder if it's different from DPFI to MPFI as well?
I think you mentioned that you replaced yours with the one from DPFI.
These are the two wires you moved from C1 C2 to B10 B12 when you did the MPFI conversion.
You can check those for continuity and make sure they are going to the right place on the ECU when you get around to working on the car again.
Last edited by 4drEF; May 23, 2013 at 02:32 PM.
i move c1 and c2 to b10 and b12.
And i didn't do anything electrical to the dizzy that would alter anything... except: I did have to change the connector 1 connector with like, 5 wires on it... because they didn't match...
they were the same on both.. same colors and everything..
And i didn't do anything electrical to the dizzy that would alter anything... except: I did have to change the connector 1 connector with like, 5 wires on it... because they didn't match...
they were the same on both.. same colors and everything..
uhh guys.... so i turn on the car today... and it fixed itself. I guess the computer was running tests while on limp mode or w/e its called...
As for the ECU lights... i got 8 and 16
As for the ECU lights... i got 8 and 16
Check your injector wiring for code 16 since you just made some changes on that. Code 8 is tdc, again pointing to dizzy. You likely damaged the sensor inside when you disassembled and changed out pieces ( as I did when I tried lol).
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guys thanks for all the help and diagrams!
My codes now are 4, 10, and 16 and they all make sense because i've been screwing around with those things... No CEL on either
But, the car is running great so far and now its time to just correct these last few codes, solder up all my ECU wires, and off to cosmetics.
I've definitely learned a lot doing this swap on my own.
My codes now are 4, 10, and 16 and they all make sense because i've been screwing around with those things... No CEL on either
But, the car is running great so far and now its time to just correct these last few codes, solder up all my ECU wires, and off to cosmetics.
I've definitely learned a lot doing this swap on my own.
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