hey guys, i am puting back together my b16a2 and i need to know the correct oil clearance for the main bearings and connecting rods, i am going to use palsti gauge(green) and i need to know what the right Clearance should be before i do this, i have a new Eagle 4340 cranck and Manley h beam's, and a set of ACL race bearings standard size.

 

The race bearings are going to give you .018-.020 on an OEM crank, not sure with the Eagle crankshaft. you should also see .016-.018 on the rods with oem crankshaft, again not sure on the eagle crankshaft.

If you within those specs your good to go. What kind of power are you aiming for ? Is the eagle crank stock stroke or is it a stroker crank ? If its stock stroke run your oe crank

 

thanks, i dont know maby 550-600 whp, cp pistons 9:0:1, manley rods, eagle cranck stock stroke, brian crower stage 2 turbo cams, bc retainers, orbit oil pump, acl bearings, cometic gaskets, rc1000cc, megasquirt ecu, ramhorn with holset hx40 going for 30psi, and alot of other stuff..

 

I would use the stock crank. Eagles are notorious for breaking.

 

it was cheaper and better way for me to get an eagle than buying oem cranck, Eagle says that it is one of the most durable and reliable options on the market and it can handle 1500 hp, so i will give it a go since i bought it already

 

Understandable seeing you already purchased it, But eagle says it and they break but oem is proven to handle that kind if power

Did your b16 not have a crank. ?

 

the eagle like to go snappy man save money now but spend alot more when the engine goes poooof from a snapped crank shaft

and eagle is full of it lol

 

Lol yes i had oem in it but a little knock ruined it + eagle rods

 

how often does this happen ? isn't anyone using them ? is this very common

 

google man you will learn alot about them

 

I google'd, didn't really find much more than "my bro broke his crank bro".

Got any links?

 

http://www.google.com/search?q=eagle...iw=640&bih=375

...and I thought you were Mr. Domestic?

Given, the Honda threads seem to be lost, but the broken Eagle crankshafts in the Domestic world are still full steam ahead. Eagle is a budget solution through and through...

OP - You get what you pay for...

 

Did you bother to read any of those links? You've got everything from blower cars, to welded up and turned cranks. Again, read the links and the circumstances surrounding the failure and 9 out of 10 failures are sketchy.

Crank failures like what you guys claim are actually rare, whether its domestics or 4 bangers. When it does happen, there's usually a mongoloid that built the engine.

 

Enough said in these two pictures

 

Details?

 

The Eagle crank spun itself stupid and turned the engine into flying pieces of metal glory from the looks of it, call Ms. Cleo and she what she says. I don't think anyone here is trying to make stuff up about Eagle out of some sort of personal vendetta, if people here are saying they suck and they actually know their head from their *** then it's probably alright to just accept what they've said and move on.

 

Crankshafts do not just "spin themselves stupid". If they are such junk and they do break as often as some of you claim, then there should be plenty of examples, right? I'm not out to prove they're awesome cranks, I'm asking the people who say they're junk to prove that they're junk.

 

If that pair of pictures doesn't convince you then you're braver than I. I've never seen or heard about OEM cranks doing anything like that. I wonder how much proof do you need past what has been provided to you before you'll agree you made a risky purchase at best in that Eagle crank.

The image search from that link alone would cause me to shelve it.

 

maybe he needs to see it on Myth Busters

 

Well, since I actually machine and build engines for a living and not just read the Internet for knowledge, I've learned that no matter how bad the damage, there's a root cause and its rarely ever simple part failure. There's always extenuating circumstances that someone may be reluctant to explain and would rather say X Brand is junk rather than admit fault. I don't jump to conclusions with just a couple photos.

If all you know is what you read on the Internet, you're operating under false pretenses.

 

Good post. In my line of work there are RCA's...root cause analysis performed. Consisting of metallurgy tests, running data scrutinized etc. Obviously this is not super practical for most guys that have a failure but time should be taken and all options considered. Simply assuming because something broke that the part is junk, tune is junk etc does little to advance ones knowledge and can often lead to internet myths being born.

That crank picture shows a very clear grain break pattern that indicates the beginning of the fracture area.

 

Well if you're not going to learn from what others teach you then you have to learn from your own experience. That being said I suggest you buy several Eagle cranks and several OEM and do your own testing. Even if someone is to tell you why they're a poor choice you yourself said "If all you know is what you read on the Internet, you're operating under false pretenses.". So keeping that in mind it's basically pointless to tell you anything due to your beliefs. Get off of Honda-Tech and go make your living, cya.

 

I just don't listen to people who regurgitate what they read. That's why I asked for links, to learn from people with actual experiences. I've actually used a lot of Eagle cranks in the domestic stuff and never had one break. Same for SCAT, Callies, Lunati, etc. I've only seen one break and it was from Crower, one of their baddest BBC cranks and it broke with only 1100hp. Root cause was the owner over tightening the blower belts.

 

Yes. This. Alot of times, I get the impression almost anyone will not admit that they might have assy. something wrong. Or not measured or clearanced, etc. Maybe from lack of experience and break a part and blame the part. I've seen it happen to people numerous times. I ask them what they're clearances were, spring clearance, or how they're retainers looked before installing things, and you get the blank stare of "uhhhhhhh" Yeah, I did. I'm not supporting Eagle cranks or such. I hear of alot of manufacturers getting blamed from inexperienced "builders and tuners" that don't know how to assemble or tune. But are willing to do it for their friends, and when **** goes wrong, It's somebody elses fault I phucked your **** up when I said I knew what I was doing. Personally on the crank situation, I too, would opt for a stock crank rather than an aftermarket. Just my .02.

 

okay my main bearing clearance = .025mm, not 100% the same on all of them, should be good ? still have to check my rod bearings though, i also read somwhere that you should tighten the arp 2000 bolts more than oem spec ?