Recirc or vented catch can? gsr on 10 lbs
like it says i have an eh2 with a gsr on 10 lbs of boost ( no arp studs till i replace valve seals this weekend) anyways, my question is ive done a fair amount of research on catch cans right now im just running a hose from my valve cover to a waterbottle (ghetto rigged and riced) untill i get the time to build a catch can, on a boosted motor what would be best? completely replace the charcoal box with a recirculating catch can or just leave the charcoal box and run fittings to a vented catch can? essentially the same thing the bottle is doing cept with baffling and the likes. anythoughts? like i said ive researched a fair amount amount but ive found no real proof which would be better.
I dont think you've researched at all. Get a plug for the black box, i highly doubt you know how to build an effective catch can since youre just venting into a water bottle? I could be wrong though.
get a real setup.
http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gocaca.html
get a real setup.
http://www.go-autoworks-store.com/gocaca.html
Ditto on the research part. There is no charcoal in that box. It's just baffled.
I run a recirc with a Moroso Air/Oil separator since I don't like stench in my car with the family. It's been working extremely well.
I run a recirc with a Moroso Air/Oil separator since I don't like stench in my car with the family. It's been working extremely well.
Actually I have done research, I'm asking so I have an idea which style of baffled can I will build, the ghetto setup was literally a last second deal on tune day, And I called it a charcoal box because that's what the manuals call it, sorry for usin the right name. Look the point is, recirc or vented? And are there any advantages/disadvantages over either? Thanks to those that were constructive.
Btw sorry I didn't specify 10 psi on a precision 5431.
Btw sorry I didn't specify 10 psi on a precision 5431.
Recirc will put oil into the intake, you will need to run the vent line to the turbo intake so it will oil up the turbo, piping, intercooler, TB and intake mani. I dont like oil going into my intake plus burning oil effects performance and leads to detonation. However it is the legal way to do it. To atmos you get no oil in the intake and crank case pressure is effectively relieved and vented to the outside air. You can avoid the oil smell in the car if you locate the vent can away from the AC intake, so not up by the battery where we normally put it.
And still still PSI on X turbo still means nothing. How much power the car makes depends on a lot of other factors.
And still still PSI on X turbo still means nothing. How much power the car makes depends on a lot of other factors.
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haha actually the amount of power is irrelivent... all i said was i have a gsr on 10 lbs... lol its not makin anything right now i have the head torn off to replace valve seals that dried up because that "charcoal box" wasnt bolted in and on the way home from gettin a tune blew out and i lost all my oil and shut if off the second i saw the light. still ran great just smoked like crazy. so yeah. nah only did 285 on a precision 5431 on 10 lbs in an 87 degree shop... arp studs, oem headgasket, and new seals will put it back into commision. anyways thank you for actually being constructive. so either way it really doesnt matter. thanks.
I have zero oil coming back to turbo or intercooler piping with the Moroso unit. Since I hate the stench of atmosphere, and hate oil contaminating everything this is the route I took with amazing results. It also keeps it emission legal if you are in a place where EPA/Roadside checks are present...or just cops that like to play the game. I would rather have a little vacuum caused with a recirc rather than letting crank pressure create the venting. I have another post on this somewhere. I had a massive reduction in smoke out the back of the car as well from a previous atmospheric vent set up.
food for thought...not for everyone.
food for thought...not for everyone.
its not makin anything right now i have the head torn off to replace valve seals that dried up because that "charcoal box" wasnt bolted in and on the way home from gettin a tune blew out and i lost all my oil and shut if off the second i saw the light. still ran great just smoked like crazy. so yeah..
This charcoal canister would have no impact on valve seals. How exactly did you loose all your oil for your light to come on, im very confused by your statement.
I have the endyn unit with drainback installed...Filter vent on top of catch can, and on valve cover. Lines run to back of block from catch can, one is Tee'd in for drain back. Never have a issue with any smell and its located on passengers side shoock tower....Get minor smoke out of catch can vent, nothing abnormal
ok ill put this in a way everyone can understand (not tryin to be rude) the black box... on the back of the block... that plugs into the block. it just sits in there... is held in with a bolt... bolt wasnt there when i bought the car (car just had the gsr swap nothin else) boosted the car... that got blown out on the way home... pushed it outa the block and all the oil blew all over the firewall... light came on.. shut off... pulled over... bolted in correctly... filled with fresh oil... started and ran perfectly fine... still pulls just as hard... just smoked like crazy... oil coming out of exhaust port... smokes more when hits boost... valve seals dried up and possibly cracked a little. idk i have to remove them from the head still...headgasket was fine. replacin valve seals, arp studs, and oem headgasket. now the point of this whole thing, has nothing to do with that, its simply. what is better for a boosted gsr, vent, or recirc? sorry if i sound a little defensive, seems like every jackass is tryin to jump someones **** to make them selfs feel cool. thank you for the help tho.
I have zero oil coming back to turbo or intercooler piping with the Moroso unit. Since I hate the stench of atmosphere, and hate oil contaminating everything this is the route I took with amazing results. It also keeps it emission legal if you are in a place where EPA/Roadside checks are present...or just cops that like to play the game. I would rather have a little vacuum caused with a recirc rather than letting crank pressure create the venting. I have another post on this somewhere. I had a massive reduction in smoke out the back of the car as well from a previous atmospheric vent set up.
food for thought...not for everyone.
food for thought...not for everyone.
I don't run a catch can, no black box either just a PCV valve from the VC to IM running on 25lbs, but I only drive this car maybe 3000 miles a year... I don't get any smell in the car, then again I have no A/C or heater. I also just have the vent from the VC that goes to the intake pipe with just a breather on it, little to no oil comes out of it unless there are hard turning situations but very little oil comes out of it that doesn't go away with a quick spray of brake clean. I'm also lazy and tired of putting money into the car so I have no helpful opinion on the deal. Just do a exhaust evac that the GM guys do.
I have a d16z6 with a d17 valve cover for better venting. Kept the black box in place, kept the pcv valve in place (to allow suction when cruising) and just put the VC line to the moroso seperator and to the inlet of the turbo. I understand the defensiveness. For future reference always give the whole spiel for others to understand your situation a little better.
If you are smoking heavily....you may want to do a leakdown test of your motor to be on the safe side. Compression tests are crap. If excessive leakdown is an issue, this may be the reason for your problems. If the crankcase is getting excessive backpressure, no matter how hard you try to vent, you're not fixing the original cause, you're trying to repair the sympton...not the disease.
Hope that helps, any other questions...PM me.
If you are smoking heavily....you may want to do a leakdown test of your motor to be on the safe side. Compression tests are crap. If excessive leakdown is an issue, this may be the reason for your problems. If the crankcase is getting excessive backpressure, no matter how hard you try to vent, you're not fixing the original cause, you're trying to repair the sympton...not the disease.
Hope that helps, any other questions...PM me.
haha actually the amount of power is irrelivent... all i said was i have a gsr on 10 lbs... lol its not makin anything right now i have the head torn off to replace valve seals that dried up because that "charcoal box" wasnt bolted in and on the way home from gettin a tune blew out and i lost all my oil and shut if off the second i saw the light. still ran great just smoked like crazy. so yeah. nah only did 285 on a precision 5431 on 10 lbs in an 87 degree shop... arp studs, oem headgasket, and new seals will put it back into commision. anyways thank you for actually being constructive. so either way it really doesnt matter. thanks.
ok ill put this in a way everyone can understand (not tryin to be rude) the black box... on the back of the block... that plugs into the block. it just sits in there... is held in with a bolt... bolt wasnt there when i bought the car (car just had the gsr swap nothin else) boosted the car... that got blown out on the way home... pushed it outa the block and all the oil blew all over the firewall... light came on.. shut off... pulled over... bolted in correctly... filled with fresh oil... started and ran perfectly fine... still pulls just as hard... just smoked like crazy... oil coming out of exhaust port... smokes more when hits boost... valve seals dried up and possibly cracked a little. idk i have to remove them from the head still...headgasket was fine. replacin valve seals, arp studs, and oem headgasket. now the point of this whole thing, has nothing to do with that, its simply. what is better for a boosted gsr, vent, or recirc? sorry if i sound a little defensive, seems like every jackass is tryin to jump someones **** to make them selfs feel cool. thank you for the help tho.
Running 13PSI, I had the oil dipstick pop out and spit oil every where. I went back to recirc. Though its more of a band aid to assist the size of the lines used in my catch cans (dual 3/8"). If you have large enough lines, just venting to atmo will work. That's why you see people with dual 5/8 or 3/4" lines coming off the valve cover.
That power seems low for a stock GSR for the boost you are running you should be a lot closer to 300whp. You should not have lost all your oil even if the black vent box was blown off the block, the fact that it was blown off tells me that you have a large amount of crank case pressure under boost. That info along with the lower HP numbers makes me wonder how healthy your motor is. Nond of the things you said will cause a valve seal to dry out, that happens with age. Dont be an a$$ calm down you are on a forum and asking peoples opinions on what is better so you are getting opinions. In short both style catch cans will work and work just fine. I may off base on your power level because each dyno and setup is different but 10 psi on a GSR seems to be that magic number to get to 300whp on boost. I know some one will bash this but again I under stand that each dyno and setup is differet and 285wp is really not all that bad.
oh and did i tell you that it may not have been blown off or otherwise, there was no bolt holding it on so the vibration of the motor may have just backed it out after so long. it is only pushed in there hand tight afterall.
I was not saying you did not have a valve seal issue only have what happened will not cause a valve seal to dry up and leak they dry up and get old over time and B series motors are becoming old timers lets just face it. Normal crankcase pressure should not be enough to blow the black box off the back of the block even if the bolt that hold it on was missing. Have you ever removed one? They can require some work to get them to pop out. That is why I was wondering if you could have excessive crank case pressure. I just dont see the box being blown off even on a mildly boosted motor. But all that aside get a vent can already and remove the black box it will solve your issue.
Just to clear up some ignorance:
Honda calls the black box on the back of the block a "Breather Chamber".
Honda calls the canister on the firewall a "Canister/Charcoal Canister".
When you actually use common sense to think about what these parts actually do, the names make 100% perfect sense.
Honda calls the black box on the back of the block a "Breather Chamber".
Honda calls the canister on the firewall a "Canister/Charcoal Canister".
When you actually use common sense to think about what these parts actually do, the names make 100% perfect sense.
ok oncea again... helms manual. and ok i see what ur sayin about the excessive crank case pressure. but what causes that? blown rings or going rings right? im not like arguing with u and i didnt think u were sayin i was wrong. i understand what ur sayin man. also u may have posted like right after i did or somethin but once agian if it never had a bolt in it it could have just vibrated out. i replaced the little o ring on it and put it back in and it wasnt loose but it was like i struggled to put it in or out. but yeah. i got the answers i needed so thanks guys.
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all that holds the black box in, without the bolt, is an o ring, if that O ring was old and deteriorated, which is common on most older Hondas, and the bolt was missing, it could fall out easy, OP have you checked to seee if your pcv valve is stuck? if it is, the crankcase can build enough pressure to blow out seals
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