Cold start trouble- dc2
So I've had my 95 dc2 for over a year now and the car struggles to start each morning. Especially now that it's getting colder it takes forever to finally get it started.
This only happens when the car has been sitting for 6+ hours that it won't start first go.
Oherwise car runs fine although it feels like something is holding it back when i put my foot down between 3-5k rpms like there's lag, if that's any relevance.
Spark plugs are fine, idle is fine but the fuel pump doesn't seem to turn off when I turn the key to contact. I have used two different main relays and have even re soldered them but still pump doesn't turn off? The car cranks and makes the rev limiter jump, but no start.
Could it be the cold start valve?
Please if anyone has had this problem or knows possible solutions let me know.
Much appreciated
This only happens when the car has been sitting for 6+ hours that it won't start first go.
Oherwise car runs fine although it feels like something is holding it back when i put my foot down between 3-5k rpms like there's lag, if that's any relevance.
Spark plugs are fine, idle is fine but the fuel pump doesn't seem to turn off when I turn the key to contact. I have used two different main relays and have even re soldered them but still pump doesn't turn off? The car cranks and makes the rev limiter jump, but no start.
Could it be the cold start valve?
Please if anyone has had this problem or knows possible solutions let me know.
Much appreciated
1st how new are your cap and rotor test the ignition coil. 2nd is it flooding the cyl's on start up ? the thing you're thinking of id the FITV and if it idles fine than that's not a issue. 3rd what is your fuel pressure at idle,after primed and at WOT ?
Sorry for late reply guys
Thanks for replying.
Bswapped- The distributor cap is all factory, me and my dad have opened the cap and have cleaned the spots for contact that's basically it.
Yeah FITV has been already cleaned, and in regards to fuel pressure, I basically checked to see if fuel would squirt out from the fuel filter, so I know fuel is reaching there.
Is there a special gauge mechanism to check for pressure at idle, primed and a WOT.
(Sorry if it's such a noob question)
skil178- Just checked my intake air temp sensor and it eventually started with it plugged and unplugged.
Thanks for replying.
Bswapped- The distributor cap is all factory, me and my dad have opened the cap and have cleaned the spots for contact that's basically it.
Yeah FITV has been already cleaned, and in regards to fuel pressure, I basically checked to see if fuel would squirt out from the fuel filter, so I know fuel is reaching there.
Is there a special gauge mechanism to check for pressure at idle, primed and a WOT.
(Sorry if it's such a noob question)
skil178- Just checked my intake air temp sensor and it eventually started with it plugged and unplugged.
and skill178 may not have meant this but here is a flow chart regarding the IAT sensor https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/iat-voltage-question-2592186/
There is a check valve that is supposed to stop what is happening in your case also. once the fuel pump has primed the flow should stop and the pump should turn off
This is what "should" happen when you turn on the ign. to the run position...
Cluster will light up, including CEL.
The fuel pump will prime for no more then a few sec.
The fuel pump will stop priming, at the same time the CEL will go out.
If at this point the fuel pump has not stopped priming, one of two things is wrong...
1- ECU/ECM fuel pump relay control lead is shorted to ground.
2- ECU/ECM is bad.
As mentioned a B&M, [any permanently mounted] FPG is one handy tool, mounted at the fuel filter, makes diag. fuel pressure issues easy and convenient at anytime. 94
Cluster will light up, including CEL.
The fuel pump will prime for no more then a few sec.
The fuel pump will stop priming, at the same time the CEL will go out.
If at this point the fuel pump has not stopped priming, one of two things is wrong...
1- ECU/ECM fuel pump relay control lead is shorted to ground.
2- ECU/ECM is bad.
As mentioned a B&M, [any permanently mounted] FPG is one handy tool, mounted at the fuel filter, makes diag. fuel pressure issues easy and convenient at anytime. 94
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