I'm not looking for major power numbers, but I want some pep going around town, so something budget friendly, but still reliable, ya know? I've searched and searched, but i'm not quite finding what i'm looking for, so far it's mostly been posts about builds that are trying to create huge power numbers with very expensive performance parts, so what is the bare minimum I would need to get this build to be reliable?

I'm driving a 97' Integra, with B20B swap, so I have the block, choosing a head on the other hand.. I'm most likely going with a B16 DOHC VTEC head, as it's much easier to come by. I'm sure that most of you guys are tired of seeing these threads, but I really need the help, I want to be able to start and slowly pick up parts for my build without having to second guess what I have to buy. From my knowledge so far, ARP Rod Bolts, ARP Head Studs, B16 Water Pump and does it matter which pump (B16,B18c1,ITR, etc.), would I use a timing belt from a B16, or from a GSR, unsure of what oil pump. What confuses me mostly is there are Golden Eagle Vtec Conversion Kits, Full Race conversion kit? Which one do I choose? Reliable and semi-cheap ECU? About labor cost, what is something I won't be able to do with an ordinary home garage, and some friends? (Want to prepare for mechanic costs).

I'm going to be very patient with my build, so as soon as I source the parts I see necessary, i'll go ahead with the build.

TL;DR I'm on a budget, driving 97 integra w/ B20B, looking to build B20vtec, only needing necessary parts to make it reliable, not to make super amazing power, labor costs? (things I can't do in an ordinary garage), I want to stay around the $1500 mark, any money saved is good. Thank you for looking!

 

All B series VTEC motors have the same 22t water pump.
A B16 is a short deck block so its timing belt is too short for any B18/B20.
You have to use a ITR/GSR timing belt with the VTEC 22t water pump on a B18/B20.
If you use a LS/B20 water pump you have to use an LS/B20 timing belt.
All newer B series use the same part number oil pump.

 

Okay, I understand that, but really my main question is what parts are absolutely necessary for a reliable engine, what are parts that are just put there for performance reasons?

 

ACL race bearings, new oil and water pump. And good step of valve springs. Properly tuned ecu. There's prolly a couple more parts.

 

Should I just check if my OEM bearings are fine? From what i'm hearing, i'd rather use OEM bearings instead of just ACL.

 

Don't forget the ARP bolts and studs. What are you planning to rev too?

 

Oh I definitely won't forget those, I know for sure those are probably the most important things for a b20vtec build, but is there anymore to that? Change head gasket, water pump, oil pump, timing belt, ARP rod bolts/studs, bearings, and good to go? I'm planning to atleast have it reliable enough to rev to 8,500.

 

The minimum required IMO would be:
ARP rod bolts
LS/Vtec kit w/headgasket (I have used the Golden Eagle with good luck)
PCV system. (The b20 does not have the oil separator on the back of the block IIRC)
Vtec head and intake manifold, obviously
chipped ecu

Not required but highly recommended:
timing belt GSR/TYPE R
water pump GSR/TYPE R
rod bearings OEM or ACL


The oil pump in your b20 is the same as the vtec one. No need to replace unless yours has a lot of miles. Head studs are not NECESSARY. You can either reuse the GSR/TYPE R head bolts, get new oem ones, or ARP studs. Any of those are acceptable. (Some will say you cannot reuse stock head bolts. That is debatable.)

 

Okay, didn't know about the PCV system, i'm definitely going to research on that. I bought my Integra with the B20 already swapped in, so I don't know exactly how many miles are on it (previous owner didn't know either) so i'll just swap it out for a new oil pump anyways. I'll probably replace with ARP since they do seem to be more superior compared to the oem factory studs. Thanks for the information

 

If you are tight on money, you could do that. How would you determine if they are good to reuse?

 

Leave it stock and you will have a reliable engine. Yo dont need vtec anyways.

 

I wouldn't have an idea to determine that, it's more of me just trying to make the engine most simple, while still being reliable, I suppose it's necessary to put on new bearings.

 

Nobody needs vtec, but I am one of the tens of thousands who want and like it, what's wrong with me trying to put in money to make my car faster and reliable, especially if that's something I enjoy doing?

 

is the motor still oem stock and running? if yes how many miles are on the motor. I have a b20Z/vtec setup thats completely oem internally except Jun springs and retainers and arp head studs, other than that, thats it and i rev to 8400rpm with 97-99 spec type r cams. my setup has been going for roughly 4-5 years thats seen roughly 75-100 1/4 mile passes, street fun, street tuning and dyno tuning. bottom end has roughly 100,000-150,000 miles on it. so what im saying is theres no need for arp rod bolts as long as you take care of the motor.

 

I feel like about 25% of the time the ls/b20 bottom end is ok without rod bolts. I got away with it for a year revving to 8200. It just isn't worth it to have to rebuild to save less than a hundred bucks. When my rod bearing went it sent shavings through the engine and damaged the crank journal beyond repair.

 

Yup the B20 is all stock, and running great, the mileage is unknown, the car itself on the odometer is 191,xxx miles. I picked up the car at around 180,xxx miles, when I bought the car I had a mechanic look at it for me, everything was perfectly fine, it runs like a champ, the guy who sold it to me kept the car in very nice condition, mechanical wise, he worked for Yokohama tires, and he estimated at the time it had around 50,xxx - 75,xxx but even he wasn't sure, although he did the swap himself. I know that there are some people that can get away with not doing some of the recommended things for a B20vtec build, but I don't want to risk that, but anything helps, it eases my mind. It's my daily driver, and it's only going to see a few track days.

 

That's why I want to be doing this right, if i'm not going to be willing to spend an extra hundred to keep a reliable engine, why should I bother with it right? I'm just trying to keep an estimate, so I know how much to save up, and I don't want to miss anything that I should have put in the engine, when I already finished building the engine, ya feel me?

 

Just a quick question are you going to stay with the stock b20 pistons and stock honda cams?

 

Good thread, this is exactly where my head is at now..
B20/vtec build or just fully build b20 non vtec and go boost

 

Personally, I wouldn't run Stock LS/B20 Rods that have >100K mi worth of cycles on them in a B20VTEC That I'm going to be beating on.

That's just me....

 

Just visit the famous ls/vtec b20/vtec reliable build thread. Its super easy to find but ill give it to you. https://honda-tech.com/forums/all-motor-naturally-aspirated-44/how-build-%22reliable%22-lsvtec-b20vtec-1676914/

This was my build
-B20B4 Bottom End
-B20 headgasket
-Arp Rod Bolts
-Fresh Rebuild Internals
-Vtec waterpump, oil pump, timing belt
-Golden Eagle Block Guard
-Unorthodox Crank Pulley
-98 Pr3-2 B16 Head milled .050
-Arp Headstuds
-Skunk2 Intake manifold
-I/H/E
-Ebay catch can with topmount breather with line going to one port on the block and one to the valve cover
and chipped p06 Ecu with b20 vtec basemap
It is misfiring but other than that she runs good

Thats my setup but you for sure IMO need
*Arp rod bolts - a shop will need to put these in for you*
*Arp head studs*
*HG that matches block IMO*
*Breather setup*
*Vtec oil pump, water pump, timing belt*
*AND TUNE TUNE TUNE*

 

Ugh...ditch that Unorthodox Crank Pulley.

 

On a simple build such as this.

ARP rod bolts, GE or ARP head studs. New bearings, water pump/oil pump and some nice tuning / bolt on parts and you should be fairly good to go.

 

What kills 89mm B series rod bearings? Improper rod bolts, or rpm? Is the B20 OK to run past 8K?

I learned the hard way with the H series that driving it like a B16 will toast the bearings. Now I keep it under 7500, and abuse it everytime without a whimper.

 

OEM B18B rod bearings are aluminum and are not as strong as steel-backed OE B18C or ACL B18B which are also steel-backed.