My wife was driving our 97 EX accord with 2.2 vtec motor (F22?) and it suddenly lost power and started to misfire. She was able to drive it 1 mile home and park it. I was out of town at the time and have just begun to investigate the issue. The timing belt is way overdue for failure but because the car continued to run I assumed that wasn't the issue. The car hasn't started since she parked it. It seems obvious by the way it cranks over that the timing is way off. I observed the cam through the oil filler while cranking and the cam is turning. I checked cranking compression on all 4 cylinders. #1 and #4 have 150psi and #2 and #3 have 60psi. I assume that the timing tensioner failed. and threw off the cam timing. I am preparing to pull the timing cover and check this out. My question is this, what are the odds that no valves were bent during this event? I have the capability to perform a cylinder leak down test but would like to get the cam timing close before I attempt it. If no valves were bent I plan on replacing the belts, tensioner, water pump, and crank seal. any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

you won't know exactly til you do the leakdown test to figure out where the air is leaking from..it's obvious there is damage going by your compression results in 2 and 3

 

Since posting this morning I have begun tear down. I'm to the point of removing the crank bolt. Holy **** that thing is tight. It is right hand thread correct?

 

Hum, sheared my 1/2" drive extension. This is more than just "tight".

 

It is normal thread, with my 1/2" drive 18" extension I have seen it get to nearly 45° of twist before the crank pulley broke free. My method is to use a jack stand to support the extension where the breaker bar inerts and gently jounce the breaker bar, like when diving off a diving board, if this does not free it, stand on the bar and have someone tap with a hammer the damper to aide in breaking the bolt free.

If the car was serviced in the past some ******* hack mechanics use an impact gun set to max to 'torque' the bolt.

 

Yeah, I'm using the jack stand. I would say that I reached 110 degrees of twist before the extension broke. Now if I can rent a 3/4" drive impact.

 

Try a good penetrant like Liquid Wrench or Kroil on the bolt, let it soak in and then have a go at it.

 

Liquid wrench and tried 3/4" impact. My compressor couldn't keep up. Now I'm looking to borrow some 1" drive tools to see if I can break them. Thanks Honda engineers!

 

I had to borrow a 1" impact gun from a co-worker to break a crank bolt loose. That thing was on there tight as fudge. I had to heat it up a little bit then break it loose.

 

You know it's funny, I can't recall, after removing a stubborn bolt, that I've actually seen any 'penetrating oil'-actually having 'penetrated' anything. 99% of the bolt threads are always white with corrosion and dry as a bone. It's always sufficient leverage and patience to get the right positioning to get things off without breaking sh.
But yeah, crank pulley....

 

Got it. No 20" long extension or impact wrench required. Just a 3/4" drive ratchet, 8" long extension and my floor jack.

 

When you put it back, oil on the bolt threads to prevent corrosion, but not on the flat surface that touches the crank. That way, you are following the SAE standard for bolt install torque, that torques be measured with bolts clean and dry.

 

Here is how I ended up breaking the crank bolt loose. Rental crank pulley holding tool, 3/4" drive 3/4" socket, 8" long 3/4" extension, 3/4" rachet, floor jack, and a 4x4x6" block.

 

That, my friend is smart thinking.
I have never had a issue removing a crank bolt with a breaker bar and my 5 foot metal pipe.

 

You should put a jack under the head of the driver. Less likely to apply off center torque and break things. Bolts, extensions...

 

So here we go. The timing belt is intact and in place, although its pretty loose in my opinion. Possibly since its been about 140k since the last recorded replacement. The lower timing cover is shredded from the outside where the alternator belt evidently was rubbing through. My wife said it smelled like a burnt clutch when she parked it. There was oil and plastic debris throughout. I began to ponder the low compression readings I had on the 2 center cylinders and wondered if it may have been caused by cylinder wash down. I squirted oil in both cylinders and the compression popped right on up to approx 130psi in both. I believe what may have occurred is fowling of the crank sensor from the debris in the timing cover and misfiring causing the cylinders to flood and wash down while my wife limped the car home. Now I'm looking for a replacement lower timing cover to go with the new timing belt kit.

 

I can send you a new lower timing cover and seal for $43.50 shipped to your door via UPS.

PM me if you're interested.

 

Lower timing belt cover, pennies at the JY.

 

Get a new belt on. Snug the pulley back together and get a compression test redone ASAP.
Everything else is gravy.

 

Back together and runs better than it has in years. Just need a new timing cover.

 

So you're convinced the low compression readings ( 60 psi ) on 2 & 3 were flukes or caused by fuel wash?

 

Yeah, compression is solid across all 4 cylinders now. I remember this happening with a flooded carburetor (remember those?) many years ago.

 

Just me but if the cover has a "cut in it" from the drive belt....the issue is the grommet on the timing belt adjustment bolt is gone. Over time without the OE grommet the cover will "buldge" and come into contact with the belt.

To solve, a few ways. Either replace the grommet or buy an e-clip that fits the adjusting bolt and large enough to hold the cover back.

 

It looks like this is exactly what happened.

 

I can't tell you how many times I've see that "cut/slit" in the lower cover.