i have a 1997 honda accord f22b2 engine and i wanna know a way to take off the crank pulley bolt without special tools and no air gun

 

the easiest way is for you to go to a mechanic and have em take it off with their air gun..then put it back on so you can take it off at home

normally then you can put a 14mm wrench and hold the power steering pulley enough to get it off with a 19mm socket

you may need this tho

 

i wont make it to a shop i gotta do it at home have u done it by hand

 

yes, you buy that tool....stick it around the crank pulley put a breaker bar into the slot and something around it to the ground so it locks in place..which holds the crank in place

then put a 19mm on the crank bolt with an extension and breaker bar around the ratchet and turn the bolt off..then turn the power steering pulley to line up TDC marks, after removing all the spark plugs to make moving the crank very easy... and then proceed to take everything apart

 

You have heard of the "starter bump trick", right?

It won't work on our Hondas because our engine turns the wrong way. So what if you could make the engine turn backwards?

* wire the starter backwards then do the "starter bump trick"
* put a socket and breaker bar on the bolt, roll/tow the car backwards, then pop the clutch in 1st. (Or roll/tow forwards and pop the clutch in reverse)
* get the proper tool from Autozone loan-a-tool (YMMV, there was a thread on this... )

I take no responsibility for damage or injury caused by any of these suggestions...

 

easiest way is torch the bolt throw some pb blaster on it and wait blast it again and bam should come off

 

Even if you could, it's not worth the risk. Do what holmesnmanny suggests. I did something similar and was able to get the bolt out of both engines. I am by no means a big dude, so if I can do it, almost anyone else can do it.

 

guess i gotta order that tool thx

 

is it necassary to broke the bolt loose when changing the head gasket r will the pulley turn to align tdc without the bolt been loose

 

whatever you do, don't torch that bolt..it can damage the crank

it's really really easy to get that bolt off if you just do it right and with the right tools..make sure you use a 1/2 inch breaker bar and probably a cheater pipe over the breaker bar to get it off....i like to put a jack directly underneath the breaker bar to keep it nice and straight as you put pressure on it

 

do i have to break the bolt loose to change a head gasket ?

 

You're taking off the crank bolt, which is down by the crank. The head gasket is in between the head and the block. If you really don't know this, you might want to have someone else help you on whatever job you plan on doing. Atleast until you do it your first time.

 

buy this part
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trks...at=0&_from=R40

then do this

its easy it also helps if you put a longer pipe or tube over the breaker bar. more leverage easier to break lose

 

Screwdriver in the flywheel.

 

Yes.

Harmonic damper(crank pulley) will prevent you from removing the lower timing cover, and from removing the belts.

It must be removed.

 

well it is possible to slide the belt off the cams and change the head gasket without removing the crank bolt


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No, you don't have to. It's possible to change the HG w/o removing the crank pulley.

I just did it on my brother's '96 Civic EX sedan. Got the timing marks all lined up before I loosen the t-belt tensioner bolt and slide the t-belt off the cam gear.

 

how do i loosen the timing belt enough to slide off the cams with bottom cover on....

 

Loosen tensioner pulley bolt and release belt tension by shifting pulley back.
There's a hole in the bottom cover for the express purpose of adjusting the tension, no?

 

is the tensioner bolt the same as the t belt adjusting bolt ?

 

Out of my depth here....somebody with the specifics about the f22b dual belts chime in....

 

the answer is yes...BUT you can actually slide it off the cams without loosening the tension...then just adjust the tension to spec after you put it back on

 

don't do this...

 

I only did that one time, myself...first time taking off the flywheel bolts...had a friend do that to hold the crank still... then i realized i could just put a breaker bar with 19mm socket around the crank bolt to hold the crank still while I did the flywheel and clutch assembly

 

I'd rather not do it either, but it works reasonably well. Just FYI, if you look in the manuals **nes? Yeah, the ones they have in the parts stores, there is a big fat picture of the tech jammin a fat screwdriver in the bell housing...