Just installed everything including my 2.5" exhaust, oil lines, charge piping, AND seals/bearing from PureTurbo's on my Turbonetics T04B/T3 turbo. It smokes a TON out the tail pipe, less and less once it warms up and I drive it for awhile. The restrictor is tiny as can be, well under a millimeter. Could my return line not be flowing to its maximum potential causing oil to pass by the seals? Like I said, the turbo has just been rebuild so its fairly annoying..

I have to for sure replace the gaskets that came with my kit as they are already soaked and not serving their purpose. I also have re-fitted both of my -10an fittings on the return line and have a -10an bung as high mounted on the pan as possible.

Ideas? I have looked around and wasn't able to find much pertaining to my situation.

 

If its under 1mm, that means its about .039". For a journal bearing that is WAY TOO SMALL. For whatever reason, that means its still going past the turbine oil sealing ring with that small of an oil feed means that something is wrong with the return line. Despite the oil feed size, the return line could be configured in a way that is causing an oil backup, and will go past the area of the turbocharger of least resistance.. Please show clear, high resolution photos of underneath the car where the return line is.

Either way, that oil feed line is too small, and you're easily starving the turbine shaft of the turbocharger.

 

Does your return line have any low points between the turbo and the oil pan? If it pools and doesn't flow correctly, it'll cause it to smoke.

 

I actually don't have pictures of the original setup as I just removed it to do a post-run inspection of the gaskets and my AN "fitting jobs". I had the slight angle piece off the CHRA, going to the hose where it sat on the subframe, and then into the pan where it bolted to the bung with a straight fitting. Thinking about it now it probably didn't have the best flow characteristics, like I mentioned I have it removed currently to re-work it. The restrictor piece looks like it is a TAD bit smaller than a 1/16" drill bit which comes out to .0625, I could perhaps drill it larger. I have a hybrid bearing CHRA, one big-shaft journal bearing, and a ceramic ball bearing on the compressor side. I will most likely run the straight fitting off the CHRA, and cut the ss hose down to size to run directly (as you're supposed to do ) to the angle fitting on the bung.

Pictures of my setup so far, now I just need to figure out how to seal the AN "looking" piece that goes into the outlet flange. Its basically a thread (of unknown size/pitch) that goes into the flange, with an 10an male end.

 

This last pic looks like one of those ebay restrictors. Just because the inlet is .0625", the outlet is horrible. the return line can't sit on ANYTHING, so that may SERIOUSLY be an issue. a nice smooth slope to the return bung should be used.

I'd just get a B&R fittings return and oil feed kit, and be done with all that. whether it is a hybrid bearing system, won't matter, there's still a floating journal bearing to make sure is properly lubricated

 

I understood the lubrication portion, I was just stating I had that model housing. I have a buddy of mine that does custom circuit boards and has a dremmel drill press. Could I perhaps drill the restrictor out to a larger diameter? I will definitely be reorienting the return line with a smooth slope down to the bung on the pan, although it will be tedious due to my downpipe/charge piping.

Why is the outlet horrible? I'm not arguing, just understanding. Are you talking about the AN/outlet where it is tapered like an AN upwards leaving a "ring"? Or the top and bottom halves of the restrictor?

 

Top and bottom halves of the restrictor, specifically,but the ring doesn't help the most either.

Those T04B turbonetics should be using a 1/4NPT thread pitch fitting. It doesn't need that flange. even the correct restrictor is like $10-$12. But if you want to drill your way on the bottom, sure... why not. (Just needs to be as open as the original part of the feed fitting).

 

I will most likely sand off the tapered half of the return "an-frankenstein" piece to make a bowl shape rather than a ring. I'm aware of the turbonetics 1/4NPT fittings, they have an inline filter in them don't they? I would have to then get the fitting, and then a 1/4NPT to 4AN fitting adapter, cool easy enough.

So I should drill/modify the restrictor to be the same size as the opening on the CHRA or the opening for the 4AN fitting? Btw, the "drill bit" measurement was taken on the outlet side of the restrictor, not the inlet.

 

the opening on the restrictor should be .065 inches. .065" is just over a 1/16 drill bit. so use that and wiggle it around VERY little to barely open the hole up larger than the drill bt and that will give you proper oiling.

 

Yay 0.065" restrictor here! But it's obx off eBay and they can break!

Sounds like u need a rebuild lol

 

Ok, I will do that. Like I said, my friend has a dremmel drill press which is ideal for small accurate holes. Then it will be spot on perpendicular with the flange. Along with reorienting my return line.

I'm a little short on money and couldn't really afford much. The turbo was JUST rebuilt (as the title suggests) and has less than a mile on it. I also used all assembly lubricants heavily during the rebuild to assure no premature wear. I will more than likely end up buying the turbonetics 1/4NPT fitting and a 1/4NPT to -4AN fitting union piece.

 

Hopefully this will suffice. Now I have to burn all the oil out of my system ONCE more, then hopefully it won't smoke. Otherwise I have bigger problems. I replaced both the upper and lower gasket with the parts store generic heat sensitive/oil approved gasket material, drilled out the restrictor, and rerouted my oil line. Approve/disapprove?

 

Return line seems ok, I'd definitely make sure you're at least .065" on that drill bit. The turbonetics turbo does not have a filter inside the feed of the cartridge.

 

Well that sure as hell didn't work.. Seems to be leaking oil (smoking) out of the bottom half of the gasket on the 5-bolt flange, also started it in my garage and drove it up and down the road and continued to smoke. Going to start it up tomorrow but I'm having my doubts.. This is quite depressing...

Keep in mind, the car did not smoke AT ALL before I did this and have 100% confidence its turbo related. The vehicle also has never been truly "boosted" because I have my intercooler/TB/BOV tube disconnected until I can get it tuned. So I know I didn't screw up rings or the head gasket.

Here's a video.

 

That really su,,,,,,,,,So you write that your turbo wasnt in problem before rebuilt??

 

So wait, you took the turbo apart and rebuilt it with a kit mailed to you? No rebalance?

Do you even know proper procedure for placing the seal on the shaft and then seating the seal before installing it?

The turbine shaft should just push in by hand if the seal was properly installed and seated

Did you clean and reinstall the turbine wheel heat shield before installing the shaft?

 

I'm still thinking that tapered fitting on the return is causing a problem too. or at least aggravating it.

 

No I did not have it professionally balanced. But I did mark the shaft-compressor wheel with a scratch awl. The seals were seated completely in the recessed groves of the shaft, coated with assembly lubricant, and then pushed completely down into the CHRA till it seated.

 

Well, turbo's fucked. Got as far as the billet compressor plate off and the entire inside was metal shavings, the thrust bearing was also scored like it overheated. I kept everything to its original alignment, not sure what I did wrong.. God damnit.

I've rebuilt plenty of things, from full blown motors both small to medium size (including my 160cc stroker race motor in my CRF50). I thought I would have been able to tackle the turbo rebuild with the correct amount of knowledge using the correct practices and tool/chemical usage. The turbo looks like it was WAY off balance, although my markings were aligned when I reassembled it, they were not when I took it apart today... I don't have a readily available torx set on hand so I was only able to go as far as the compressor "billet plate" and the turbine housings. Looks pretty rough. The turbine seal (obviously leaking) was broken in half with a complete half missing and was also worn away tremendously. The thrust bearing had aluminum baked onto it from the "billet plate" and the plate itself was also significantly deteriorated and was also discolored from heat. The billet plate doesn't look salvageable, neither does the turbine half of the CHRA (cast iron may I remind myself ). LUCKILY I didn't spend more than $250.00 on the turbo and parts.. Live and learn, although this was a beautiful turbo. I will definitely be keeping the parts though in case I can miraculously find enough "junk" to rebuild it.

Ordered a Precision T3/T4 55mm turbo today for $600.00 on eBay. Bill me later, $600.00/six months/four weeks=$25.00 a week. Not too bad! It will work perfectly with what I have and give me the same power goals I was looking for. No more glorious polished compressor housing (for the time being!!) anymore. Time to keep it to the Pro's.

(On a side note, I stuck the return "frankenstein" AN flange in a lathe and cut off that stupid ridge on the return half, post pictures later)

Pictures to explain my strife. lol

 

Turns out they were all sold out of the turbo I was going to get.. So, they called me. Now I'm getting an even larger turbo for the same price! The dude had one 3431e laying around (new of course) so I just said I could have it for $600.00. Hoping to find a backplate for a decent price that will fit a T04B w. a 3" major.

Had my girlfriends dad machine out the fitting, hopefully you (TheShodan) will approve!

**Admins feel completely free to close this thread as the question has now been solved**

 

That definitely looks better. Call someplace like San Diego Forced Induction (Aka Usedturbos.net , Pure Turbos) To find a Turbonetic backplate. I'm sure they have a lot of spare parts there ready to go. Just give them the part number that you have on your current backplate. Or find a 2002 Turbonetics PDF catalog online. They're still available.

 

Another precision? Puff puff pass!

 

I would love to rebuild it. I actually dealt with Charles at pure when ordering my rebuild parts. Extremely helpful. I know I can get a new plate, I'm just wondering it its worth it. I'll post pictures of the exhaust half of the CHRA later, it's pretty eaten up and I'm not sure it's within tolerance. I'll also need a thrust bearing and seals, thrust plate looks alright. Although if I do get parts I'll get it VSR balanced! It's a gorgeous turbo with that polished housing, and turbonetics has a good track record.


I've seen them make ridiculous power (obviously not with what I'm getting, but a precision none the less) on a local guys civics. It was within my price range too, at least until I can fix the netics. Although I've seen mixed opinions on them.

 

It's better to just send the turbo in to have that done. You're not saving any money trying to buy all the parts plus the backplate to do it yourself only to send it to a facility to rebalance.

I only said Pure because they deal with a lot of the Turbonetics parts. One of the few for a diesel facility.

I personally recommend turbos.com for rebuild and Turbonetics parts because they deal a lot in the OEM and have that stuff in stock ready to go a lot faster

 

Eh, I'll have to agree with you on that one. Probably get it sent in someday once I can get some numbers in comparison to my new turbo to see if it will be worth it. Besides, I dig the hybrid ceramic ball bearing design. I'll post pictures of the new turbo installed over on my build thread tomorrow night if anyone is curious. Thanks for your help guys, although the issue was obviously apparent the whole time.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/94-accord-ex-build-thread-3121389/

Edit: Looking over the exhaust half of the CHRA it looks like it can be salvaged. The thrust plate is also in good condition, perhaps I can use an chemical compound to break down the aluminum melted to the steel. I'm just brain storming here.