no low end power
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 18
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From: Prince Edward Island, Canada
hey guys, i have a 95 integra with a jdm b18b with about 60000 km on it, my car has barely any power at lower rpms, but once i hit about 3000 rpm itll pick right up, i know a have a vaccum line thats bad cause my rpms will drop once in a while when my car idles, i have the stock headers with a full straight pipe no cat to an open fart can, and i need to put a donut gasket in as well as my car doesnt have one atm.
an exhaust leak(a big enough one) CAN cause low end power loss since you say it's just to 3K i'd be willing to bet that could be it. as for the idle dropping have you cleaned your iacv recently ?
Well, below 3000rpm is well outside the cams efficiency range, which really don't start picking up till around 3500rpm or so.
Is it gutless compared to a different integra you have/had?
or is it just really super exaggerated as in, hit the gas in first, nothing happens, then around 3k, throws you back and picks up like it's supposed to.
Is it gutless compared to a different integra you have/had?
or is it just really super exaggerated as in, hit the gas in first, nothing happens, then around 3k, throws you back and picks up like it's supposed to.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 18
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From: Prince Edward Island, Canada
throws you in your seat at 3k, and below that i can take off fine, but i cant speed right up i gotta roll up so speed slow or it kinda lags out type thing.
hmmm i'll agree with m4xwell regardless of mods it will feel "slowish" until 2.5-3K unlees you're flooring it outright. but what happens if you mash the gas off the start ? bogging hesitating ?
when was the last full tune up ?
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hey guys, i have a 95 integra with a jdm b18b with about 60000 km on it, my car has barely any power at lower rpms, but once i hit about 3000 rpm itll pick right up, i know a have a vaccum line thats bad cause my rpms will drop once in a while when my car idles, i have the stock headers with a full straight pipe no cat to an open fart can, and i need to put a donut gasket in as well as my car doesnt have one atm.
Is this your first honda/vtec motor? thats why i feel like somethings not right with the low end power band.
Last edited by Coopa B18c5; May 9, 2013 at 10:34 PM.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 18
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From: Prince Edward Island, Canada
yeah it kinda hesitates at low rpms,and it will bog out if i punch her, and yes this is my first honda and first car. i been around cars for a while just never had the money for one haha, and no idea when the last tune up was made, but if the weather is nice today out here ill def check my timing
to check timing make sure you follow the correct procedure. engine at operating temp, jumper under the dash jumped. #1 plug wire and the timing should be on one of the 3 dots. generally you just stick it on the center dot which should check to 16deg BTDC if you spin the dial
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Prince Edward Island, Canada
my check engine light is on, but i dont have a scanner and i cant find the plug in for it anyways, i know its usually supposed to be by the fuse panel on the drivers side but its not there, and i dont have access to a timing light i dont think anyone has one around here, most people will just move the distributor around till its alright sounding/feeling.
1. the diagnostic port you're thinking of is for obd2 vehicles. yours is obd1 and has only a service connector which needs to be jumped and the code read through a series of flashes of the check engine light. the service connector should be at the passenger kick panel. 2 pin. google the procedure
2. you absolutely can not just adjust timing by ear on these. for one thing, the service connector needs to be jumped in order to enter base timing mode. otherwise, the ecm will just counter your adjustment and you'll end up with timing that is way out to lunch. and for another thing, even if you enter BTM and adjust by ear, you can be quite a few degrees off and think that it seems right.
2. you absolutely can not just adjust timing by ear on these. for one thing, the service connector needs to be jumped in order to enter base timing mode. otherwise, the ecm will just counter your adjustment and you'll end up with timing that is way out to lunch. and for another thing, even if you enter BTM and adjust by ear, you can be quite a few degrees off and think that it seems right.
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