Hey Guy's well i fix a leak get another leak lol! I seem to have developed a transmission leak on my 96 Accord LX. I thought she was dry and today I peaked under her only to find the bottom of the trans to be all wet with trans fluid. I have not had the chance to scope it out good but I can rule out the trans cooler and lines. This is a rebuilt trany. Anyone have any idea of what can be
Leaking? What are the typical ( if any) things that leak on this year? The engine is a 4 cylinder None VTech.
Thanks

 

Normally this is simply the transmission seal on the passenger side. You can only go OEM on these seals as aftermarket almost never work. I've tried before. Just go OEM. To verify, clean it up and take it for a spin and if it's leaking from the seal you will see oil in a circular motion from leaking onto the axle and the axle slinging it up and around in a circular motion. If confirmed, proceed to removing the seal.

Get a Pitman Puller to pop the lower ball joint after loosening the axle nut. You will need a 36mm axle socket. Loosen the axle nut. Pop the ball joint out using the Pitman Puller which you can normally rent at autozone or oreilly. Remove the brake line bolts so the brake line can flex. You can then turn the knuckle out of the way to the left so you can access the axle. Use a pry bar gently from the transmission housing to pop the axle out. Use a smaller pry bar to gently pop the old seal out. Place the new seal back in and gently get it to just barely stay, put the old seal around the new seal and use a hammer to gently tap the new one back in. The new seal will have grease around the inner lip this is necessary to help break in the new seal so don't touch it. Put old axle back and pop it back in. If your axle is old it would be best to use a couple zip ties around(just in front to hold the clamp in place) the inner joint clamp and outer joint clamp to hold the boots put so that you can manuever the axle without the boot coming apart.

This is the pry bar set I have and they work great.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...ier=84243_0_0_

If you do it like that you can do it in an hour altogether.

 

Are you referring to the seal on the tranny for the axle shaft? If so, there's another option that doesn't require you to remove the axle nut if you don't need to replace the axle. I basically used the procedure referenced in the Honda service manual in the engine removal section but I had to modify it for the driver side. I was able to get everything out of the way on my '97 by just removing the lower ball joint from the knuckle, but I had to remove the upper ball joint from the knuckle, too. On the passenger side, I was able to get the lower ball joint free from the knuckle. On the driver side, I couldn't get that blasted lower ball joint free, so I removed the inboard bolt on the lower arm and removed the radius rod so that the whole mess would move and I could get the axle out of the tranny. There may be a little bit more work involved with this method, but it allowed me to work around the lower ball joint that I couldn't separate.

Other leak sources are speed sensors, shift solenoids, shift selector shaft and the torque converter seal. Hope that it's not the last one - you'll be dropping the tranny to replace it.

I used a pry bar similar to holmesnmanny and they worked great. I got mine from Sears and probably paid twice as much. But at least it was made in the USA and some guy in Ohio probably was able to stay employed for another day. Even at twice the price, they were well worth it.

 

With a Pitman Arm Puller/Pitman Tie-Rod Puller it takes about 15 seconds to remove the ball joint. No more. It even works on Upper Ball Joints AND Tie-rods.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...mString=search

Whatever method you're using is way too much work and doesn't appear to even work at all.

 

Hmm I think you are right On the money Holmsmany. I just did the passenger side axle a couple months back and there were NO leaks at the time? Wonder why she she started to leak all of the sudden? Oh well mayby that's just my luck. Wish I would have known they were leakers at the time so I could have done it then. I will inspect it closer and report back later.
Thanks

 

once the seal gets old and you go to pull the axle out im sure it's possible to damage the inner lip to the point that it doesn't seal anymore