I have a 91 Si that I'm trying to start for the first time since rebuilding the engine.

Specs (truncated, if you need more, let me know):
D16A6, bored
High compression pistons
OBD1 distributor
Phearable built OBD1 ECU, installed to their specs
Brand new battery from NAPA, 600+ CCA

Problem:
I'm in the process of trying to start it for the first time since rebuilding the engine. Since I needed to pressurize/prime the fuel system a bit prior to actually starting the car, I cranked it a little with plug wires disconnected. There was a gas leak when the fuel pump got the fuel system up to pressure, so I stopped and addressed that. Once that was finished and the gas didn't leak when I turned the key to the On position, I tried to run the starter once more just to be sure everything was fine. The starter ran really poorly, then stopped, in the manner I would expect if the battery was dead/dying. Since then, when turning the key, all I get are relay clicks under the dash. Got suspicious of a faulty starter while fiddling with it, but got it tested at the local parts store and it worked perfectly. There is voltage being supplied to the starter according to my multimeter, but the thing refuses to turn. Also, my battery light will not turn off when if the car is off and the key is out of the ignition. However, it turns off when the key is turned to the On position.


So. What the heck is going on here? Is it possible that the battery is not supplying the correct current (dead cell)? I've checked (via test light) that the clutch switch is not the culprit for the starting issue, but I'm concerned that these two things (not starting, battery light constantly on) are linked. I want to try jumping the car in the morning, to see if it's really a low current draw from the battery that's an issue, perhaps a dead cell. Any thoughts from you geniuses at Honda-Tech?

 

Make sure your ground wires are hooked up to the motor. I had this problem yesterday after taking out my D16A9. The relay would just buzz (Using a regular relay instead of a Main) and the starter would act all weird and never crank. Turns out I forgot to attach the ground wire to the transmission close to the cable.

 

It appears to be grounded just fine, the test light would indicate that at least.

In case I'm a moron, which ground wires in particular are you referring to?

 

Check ground on thermostat housing and tranny to frame/frame to battery

 

My setup has only 3 grounds, thermostat, transmission and valve cover.
May not be the same for you and I would suggest adding more grounds onto engine which I need to do myself.

 

How would I check to see if it is sufficiently grounded? I have all three grounds connected, and the test light lights up, but I can't know if there is enough current flow. I wouldn't think that it's a grounding problem, because the started spun fine the first time I gave it a shot, but after that it wouldn't work.

Also, discovered this morning that removing the alternator solenoid fuse turns the battery light out, and removing the reverse-light/turn signal fuse causes the battery light to dim, both actions being accompanied by a faint, high-frequency screeching noise from the alternator of different pitch for each removed fuse.

And to clarify, the battery light goes off when we put the key in the On position, but it remains on while the key is in ACC or Off, even when out of the cylinder.

 

UPDATE: shorted the engine to the body with a couple of wrenches. Started kicked in instantly. Looks like we'll be adding more ground straps, since there obviously wasn't enough current flowing through the existing grounds. Thanks for all your help!

BUT: the battery light issue hasn't been resolved yet. Any ideas on that one?

 

Could be your alternator gone bad, but until you ground everything out its an IFFY question

 

Yesterday I grounded everything sufficiently, and was able to start the car. When the car is started, the battery light isn't on, so I'm assuming the alternator is functioning properly (also considering that its brand new haha). What else could this be? The battery light is only on when the car is off...

 

Do you have a multimeter? Check battery voltage with key out to see if its staying at 12.5ish volts and isn't dropping much tiny bit is normal because of radio and clock memory.

 

The best way to troubleshoot is to unplug everything one at a time and see what shuts it off. I would start at the Alternator and work your way around. Eventually something will turn it off.