ok first off let me tell you about the car its a 95 ex coupe with a jdm 98 spec itr obd2 motor and ecu using a jumper harness to car been running fine up untill three days ago car started sputtering bogging down and stalling thought i got bad gas so put on new fuel filter and drained tank car started ran good made it 10 miles and cut off would just turn over and over will no starting so i replaced the fuel pump thinking it was the problem still no start i know im getting fuel cuz it flooded my old plugs put in new plugs still nothing so replaced igniton coil sense that tested at 1 ohm and spec is 0.6-0.8 ohms car started but if i gave gas it would bogg down and just about stall out while running it threw a code 23 for knock sensor so bought new sensor still wont start will just crank and crank
while trying to start this morning i noticed the cel came on so i pulled the codes and got a no 9 for cyl postion sensor and a code 20 for Electric load detector basically im at a loss and need some help

 

Focus on code 9. Resistance test the distributor sensor and test the two wires for a short or open.

 

How do u go about testing the distribitor sensor? And the cyl position sensor is that in the distribitor on a obd2 motor

 

You need a multimeter set to read resistance/Ohms. Resistance across the sensor should be 350-700 Ohms.

yes

 

Ok thank you I will let you know what I find out

 

Tested sensor it tested at 360.1 ohms so that's good not really sure how to test for a short or open in the wire

 

you need to fix the eld before you even try anything. trust me. diagnosing the other parts and replacing them won't do **** until you fix the eld problem

 

^Code 20 would NOT prevent the engine from starting, but code 9 would.

 

So how do u test for a sort in the wire?

 

So just got home tried to start it and it started it will idle just fine but if u give it gas it will Bogg down and just about cut off

 

when in the hell did i say that code 20 will prevent the car from starting? the bad eld will just interfere load and no load voltages, which to me is more dangerous then the car not starting. specially if you like 15 volts running thru your entire system. that would be MY first priority, find out why its throwing an eld code, my homie has a 92 civic hatch kept throwing a eld code and car was running like crap, and it would stall if you revved it and let go of the gas. once we found the bad ground. eld code never came back up. car ran smooth. never stalled again ty. THIS IS FROM EXPERIENCE. you can go ahead and believe anyone. im not telling you to believe me. just saying what i went thru. and this took 2 days of diagnosing EVERYTHING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

some one please help

 

Open test:

Plug the distributor connector back in. Unplug the ECU connector that has the 2 Cylinder Position Sensor wires. Measure resistance across those two pins of the ECU connector. Do you still measure 360 Ohms?