Hello Honda-tech*!
I want to know your opinion, what is the configuration of the motor will suit best for drag-racing? 95х89, 2.4l, r \ s1: 49 or 88х89, 2,2 l, r \ s 1:65
at the moment I have some spare parts
h22 block Darton Mid
CP pistons 89mm sr 9:1
Skunk2 Pro1 cams and valvetrain, etc.
transmission m2j5

 

95x89... we all wish!

 

Just PM NAH2B on here about the H combo's

 

it is a turbo engine

 

89mm

 

since you already have the pistons, are they designed for h22 stroke or h23 stroke? H22 rod or h23 length rod? thats going to make a difference in your compression.

As much as i like the bigger bore, i'd stick to 88mm to give you some bore room for future rebuilds.

 

H22A 2.2 89mm over here too (dartons)

 

THIS. Anyone that goes out to max bore on the first build is an IDIOT. I don't have 2k to toss away for a new sleeve job every time I blow a motor up.

Depends on what your piston was setup as, if you ordered off the shelf pistons you're going to want to run stock stroke.

I don't get why people spend all the time/money unless you're an all-out drag car/high level of competition, the "gain" you get from all that motor work can be picked up by running another POUND of boost. In other words, unless you HAVE TO squeeze every last drop of power out of your engine, keep it simple.....

 

the financial side and the assembly of the engine is another matter
Now it is important to understand that the best engine size or r \ s

 

'm sure there are people here that will help sort out this issue!
I'm not quite rely on their own knowledge, but I want to do it right, in order not to regret it
I would like to hear from people who have the knowledge backed by experience

 

Well it depends on what the motors purpose is .. If its a full drag go 95 but expect to replace bearings.every other season... And if u want it to last longer then go 90,mm crank

 

I have not seen in Google drag car with a 95mm stroke and a turbo such as the 67mm wheel, just wondering how it works in drag
but I have seen it it's just amazing how it makes power to 9500 RPM with the camshafts on the type-s
Now, I thought, is able to 95х89 with a large turbo to do it with pro1 cams, even afraid to imagine what to do with his head to make it happen

 

I would stick with the H22 crank. Unless you go with the H23V Blue Top Motor which I think the Crank is more stout then a H23A1 then will have no issues...

I personally think the 95mm stroke will make more power and torque. Torque will be more closer to HP numbers as well.... power bands nice too... I haven't purchased a jdm h22 in a long time... all I play with is H23V Blue Tops...


H23V BT
95mm stroke
87mm bore
Fully Built
473 hp 373 trq 15 psi sc6176e
One of the most reliable cars I have ever built... Dailyed it for a while.

60k thick cometic MLS HG
H22 pistons
Crower H23A1 Rods

 

my block h22a5 50mm main
I have read many many opinions that it does not have the reliability if you use 95mm crankshaft
So I thought, water them to the crankshaft f20a to 98 years, he was the main 50mm
as you can see from the video, these assemblies show good numbers, while delivering reliability
the question arises, which can produce rods, custom-f20b, 145mm

 

what size tire and class will this car be run in?

 

it will be a front-drive turbo car,24,5-26 tires

 

Keep in mind on this video, the engine blew up on it's second pass down the drag strip, and has been sitting in storage since.

 

: Испуганный:you know the reason why this happened?

 

That is my car... Engine blew up due to an overboost to 38psi (maxing out poor in-tank fuel setup that in place and running lean). Dyno tune in that video was only to around 32-34psi on a smaller waste gate. Impatience prevented re-dyno testing on the new waste gate.

Car was repaired that year and is daily driven since that time at 18-20psi (~550whp). I assume the side wall forces are better with 87x88 mm dimensions. Close to square with room for rebuilds if needed.

 

Thank you, sir, are you here
My unit was 88mm, 89mm now he
I want to ask a few questions! rods made ​​BC, what is the price?
you used your head from the warehouse, without any interference?
and removed the oil jets for piston cooling, intentionally, it is associated with high RPM?
also wondering what you did with oil pump and intake manifold

 

Wow he surfaces!

Good to hear the car was fixed, last I heard it was sitting and you were in Ireland for work, from my buddy Keith that has the GT35'd red 4th gen here in Calgary.

 

I believe that car has a f20b in it.

 

If your going turbo i would recommend a f20b crank which is 88mm and 88mm pistons which would come out to a 2.1liter. The benefits of this setup would be slower piston speeds which will result in longevity of your engine, quicker throttle response, wider powerband= a higher reving engine and the ability to make more power which is a win win situation.

 

in my case 88х89 = 2190сс
I have a long time to decide to disassemble the engine ready 95х89
I built it for prelude 4 gen, now I have another car lighter eg-hatch
Yesterday the engine was disassembled, left naked block


will build 88х89