I have a 95 ex with a d16z6. it is burning some oil. im wanting to rebuild this motor and beef it up a little. is this motor worth rebuilding. if so what is a good set up.

 

theres beefed up d16s everywhere. yeah it would be worth it to rebuild. it all depends what you want. a streetable car, or a race car. turbo would pretty much be the cheapest and most worth it for the money power adder. again its all what you want.

 

I want to keep It street. I don't know a whole lot about these motors. I would like to have it set up for a turbo. whats the best internal parts to have it set up for turbo. what is the cost.

 

Bro I got the exact same car and engine as you. Don't **** around with turbos or rebuilds. These D16 motors are worthless as far as power and torque go. Just take those stacks you would spend on a turbo/rebuild and put it into a good B16 swap.

 

lol u wot m8?

a boosted d will rape a b16 swap. at least recommend a b18 or something.

 

Seriously, people need to stop dick riding the B16. All of it's variants are the bottom of the barrel for a B swap.

There's nothing wrong with the D16Z6. It's actually the best D series you can get your hands on. It's also stupidly easy to rebuild. The first thing I would do is figure out how much money you have to rebuild it. The second step would be to figure out why it's burning oil. Are the rings not doing their job, or are the valve stem seals worn out? Dry and wet leakdown tests can answer that question fairly well - if you get higher results with a wet test than dry, it's your rings. If not, it's your valve stem seals.

A "budget" rebuild would be rings, bearings, all bottom end gaskets, and having the block hydrosonically cleaned and honed. That's the absolute bare minimum. A proper rebuild, while prepping for future boost, would be rings, bearings, all bottom and top end gaskets, water pump, timing belt, tensioner, forged pistons and rods, as well as valve guides and valve stem seals. It also wouldn't hurt to get an entry-level turbo-oriented cam and install it, while you have everything ripped apart. With the cam, as well as a professional tune to make sure it's all running safely, you're probably looking in the area of $2500 if you shop smart. You should already have a P28 ECU that can be chipped and socketed by a professional tuner for you, as well.

As for building for turbo, you have two options. If you plan on building and boosting at the same time, you can get some slightly lower compression pistons, forged rods, a 19T or GT28RS turbo, then build and tune for 250whp fairly easily. If you plan on boosting in the future, you can get some stock or slightly higher compression pistons, forged rods, build and tune now for 100-120BHP, then boost later with the same turbo options on slightly lower boost for 250whp. Same final destination, just two different ways of getting there.

 

Determine your goals and budget, go from there.

 

research, research, research. this question gets asked about 3 times a week here. (not your fault OP)

within these forums you will find a crap ton of information regarding the pro's and con's of most swaps. why the general consensus is to swap over build a d-series, also why boost is recommended over n/a d-series.

what im getting at, is by simply spending some time on these forums you will find the information you need.

 

Sticking with the D-series? Boost it. That's what I did.

If it's on it's last legs don't even bother with a rebuild. Skip the B16 unless you can't afford anything else. It's way over-hyped and pretty much like the D-series with an extra cam.

Swap. Get the biggest engine you can afford.

 

The engine still runs good and strong. Just burna some oil. It mainly burns oil at higher rpms. I believe I'm going to stick with the motor I have. Rebuild it and boost it

 

Burning at higher RPMs points towards valve stem seals.

 

I agree.... A lot of people jump on the bandwagon for the B16.

Though... I would take a turbo'd B16 over a D series ONLY if the car came with a B16 in it. Otherwise, dont waste your money.

But for what it's worth, if you are sticking with the D series, the best way to get the most results is to turbo it. There are a lot of reliable sources out there if you do some research. Good ol' Grumble and jbpnoman i'm sure wouldn't care to enlighten you.

 

I have been doing a lot of research on this. dumping money into a d is pointless. I believe that with just half the money I would spend rebuilding and boosting this motor I can do a b16 swap and be a lot happier with it. now I have to get a list together for what all I need and how much its going to cost.

opinions on this?

 

go for it but like said before get a b18 with more displacement. pretty much same swap but better. and with b series you can mix an match stock parts to make it work.

as for cost. search around for engine an tranny. plenty of places.

 

You would be happier with a slower car? ...OK. Go for it then.

 

Happier? Maybe for a little while. The B16 is not all that much faster. You're obviously buying into the "SI" hype. Bigger displacement is always better. Unless you're going to turbo the B16 then get something bigger.

 

And even if you are going to boost the B16, start with something bigger.

 

B18 is not to much more. I'll save more money and do that one.

 

Good idea, although I'm planning the boosted D route myself. Glad you didn't get the B16, I've had one of those and it really sucks to drive at anything under 4k RPM.

 

i rebuilt my d series with 800 bux and alil bit of my own time, patients, research and of course tools..... i dont understand all this b series d*&% ridding BS. the D series when boosted makes just about as much TQ as they make HP... A B16 has no displacement and makes no TQ.... Power means nothing untill ur putting it to the ground and hooking up....

 

h22 all day!

(says the guy with a b18 lsvtec)

if i could, id have rather built a h22 tbh

 

as the saying goes " no replacement for displacement" a H22 would be ideal to get more displacement for down low out of boost.... a buddy of mine put a h22 in a CRX and when he talked to hasport the guy told him that he should have swapped a k20/24 in as the mounts basically cost the same.... a boosted k24a2 would be best as the stock block can make up to 400hp on stock block.... newer 06-08 TSX heads had even better cams then the k20z1 heads that had identical Type R cams.... having more displacement helps with that low rpm power before the turbo even spools

 

got a day to do a compression test. results are
#1. 100
#2. 105
#3. 65
#4. 100
this was a test done when the car was hot. Looks like this motor has a bad valve or piston rings are bad. any other ideas. I want to fix this motor to make it last til next year so I can do a boosted b18 swap.

 

ALL of those numbers are bad. Minimum healthy compression is 135psi.

 

I know those are bad numbers. What makes no sence is that the car is still fast for a stock d and doesnt make any noise. I really figured with those numbers I would hear some rattling or a small knock and that the car would run like ****. Looks like I'll be rebuilding this motor and running it longer than I wanted.