This will probably become more of a maintenance log than anything else.

158Kmiles, chick owned, in need of a good cleaning but otherwise appears to be all stock and original.

Work needed.
-brakes
-front wheel bearings(scalloped inner tread)
-timing belt(can't find records in receipt)
-missing right inner fender.

PO stated the car had a 'tuneup', receipts are vague.

Latest emissions test from Jan of 2012.

15MPH__1770rpm__14.7%CO2__.3%O2__HC@58ppm__.27%CO__NOx@307ppm
25MPH__2427rpm__14.9%CO2__.1%O2__HC@26ppm__.10%CO__NOx@91ppm

HC is borderline at 15MPH test. NOx is high as well.

Transmission was replaced @~150Kmiles with a Japanese import. Details are a bit sketch as to why it was replaced. Sounds more like the POs mechanic did not know how to diagnose an NM/NC sensor issue and rather than admit ignorance replaced the whole transmission. EESHH!

Know the '95 EX coupe pretty intimately, any gotchas to look out for with the '97 EX sedan outside of the OBDII differences?

Damn CD's are addictive.

 

The gotcha that got me on my '97 that I recently purchased was the heater hose. I suspect that one blew and overheated the engine even though the previous owner said the engine hadn't been overheated. I ended up with a failed head gasket/warped head after barely owning the thing for 3 months. I discovered only one of the three heater hoses was replaced when I went to fix the head. Replace the heater hoses or, at the very least, inspect them and keep an eye on them. They're hard to inspect since they're on the back side of the engine but could contribute to an early death of the engine if one blows.

 

Agreed on the heater hose issue. You're obviously aware of the dizzy seals that tend to go bad, that causes the inlet hose to swell and rot. I've seen this happen on multiple Accords and Preludes. Curious to see pictures!

 

YES! Thank you! I completely forgot about the heater core hoses. I'll have to check them.
Yup, this EX's distributor is pretty oil fouled. Actually, like any 'new' vehicle that comes under my stewardship, I always wonder how the hell people can let their engine bays get so gross. Just the lack of any color contrast throws me off looking at it. Needs some scrubbing, stared at the valve cover for a moment before I could see 'VTEC' under the dirt.

Want to take it to the coin-op and blast the crap off but am being paranoid about the belt. The car will probably sit for a week 'til I can get to the belts and waterpump.

As for pics, I probably won't post any, it is a car that has lived it's life in S.F. and has the dings to prove it. FWIW it's your typical blend into the background beige/gold color with beige cloth interior. I'll probably spent a couple hours just rubbing out scuff and paint transfer marks. This car will be regulated to transportation purposes only.

 

Absolutely nothing wrong with that! Basic maintenance and a good steam wash and she will be a great DD/family hauler.

 

One thing I always do with my own or family vehicles is add those security allen headed bolts to the LPs so they don't just walk off. While verifying that the '97 needed them I was dumbfounded to find this mound of registration stickers stuck to the rear LP. This mound is about 15yrs deep, a solid 5/8" block of colorful gooey foiled stickers. How it hasn't fallen off, let alone stolen, is impressive.

 

And I'm sure you are going to be sure Honda Trans fluid is in there . If nothing else set a baseline, I know it was just replaced 8k ago....but knowing what they did during the replacement??

Sounds like a nice new ride.

 

I'll probably be a right tosser about it, has ~8K on the trans, I'll let it go a couple more and then drain/refill.

Just got back from ORLY and the Coin-Op. Super Clean in a spray bottle was on sale two for $7. Hell why not, the wheels/tires resemble Hostess cupcakes. Security LP bolts acquired, and it only needs rear pads. WOOT!

Gave the wheels and engine bay a good coating of Super Clean. Had to do the wheels twice, that was pretty foul, we are talking flakes of brake dust coated on the face of the wheels. Engine is clean. Rear brakes pads are going to be replaced in a few.

 

what is LPs?

 

Lic Plates.....many states give a "new year" sticker to put on your plates stating the yeat they are good thru......if you keep the car for a bit of time those stickers start to "stack up".

 

The engine had not been idling too smooth. After cleaning the engine bay I was able to identify; new looking Hitachi cap; year old Summitomo wires; fairly fresh cam/valve cover gasket, the spark plug tubes are dry and oil free. Removed the distributor cap off and found what appeared to be yellow boogers on each terminal. A quick scrape with a flat head screwdriver and each booger popped off revealing oxide free aluminum. Checked on the resistor box connections for S&G finding nothing but clean oxide free connections.

With everything back together, hopped into the car and cranked the engine over. I was surprised to hear nothing, yet the tach was slowly idling down from 1500 >1200> 900. Previously the engine seemed to have a slight random knock at idle, no more. Just sweet sweet nothingness, even the '95 in top shape still has power steering pump noises.

NZXTInerTia I may have to post a picture of the engine bay as it is now. Kinda bummed I didn't take a before picture. I love it when after hosing down an engine bay all the factory paint marks show up. Which brings me to the following...

Blasting the underhood with some Super Clean and coin-op high pressure soap in the vicinity of the emissions label, presented me not only with the VECI label but an even more coveted Gates sticker with belt replacement info(it was changed at 92K and the belt is good til 180K) so like a sir...

...my day on the '97 was nearly done, checked the tire pressure and in the hot sun, barely 25psi.


Turned on the compressor and filled the near new Deathstones to max sidewall rating, I'll see in the morning what adjustments will be needed.
It's supposed to be a mileage miser anyway.

I'm stupid pleased with how well this car is turning out, and I haven't even looked at the rest of the car really, HAH!

 

Do you have any tips on cleaning the engine bay? Tips I am meaning should anything be covered when spraying it down? I just acquired a 1997 Accord and the my engine bay is nasty.

 

A warm engine loosens up the oil/grease/grime, combined with a cleaner and warm water will blast most of the crud off.

I don't believe in covering anything.
The ONLY time you cover anything when cleaning is to prevent water intrusion into the engine, such as removing the air cleaner assembly and sticking a rag into the throttle body to prevent any water going down the intake. But that is it. Many of the sensors are designed to have a water tight/rain proof(not submersion/water proof) connection. All covering will accomplish is creating a high humidity pocket that can damage sensors by steam cleaning them. Carbon tracking can be wiped off TPS sensors this way, not good.

Go over everything with a preferred cleaner. Avoid Purple Power as it will eat some plastic, rubber and even silicone based components. Simple Green is great for basic touch up and dust removal. But Super Clean is Simple Green on steroids, it also leaves rubber products looking like new. Gunk engine cleaners only seem to make everything smell like Gunk, even after all the grease and grime has been removed, it still stinks, and most car wash/coin-ops expressively forbid 'engine cleaner' chemicals.

An even coating overall, letting it soak in, then hit it with the pressure wand set on 'soap'. Just take care not to pause over components that could have issues with water intrusion such as distributor, spark plugs, alternator and any electrical component/sensor. Let the cleaner work. I actually spent a moment on the resistor box as its heat sink cooling fins were completely coated. Hose over items, just don't stand there blasting the TPS or distributor.

Leave the hood open for a few minutes to aid in drying, then start the engine and let it idle to dry off. Accords don't have any areas that I can think of where puddling occurs, but keep an eye out and sop up any with a clean rag.

 

Thanks! I appreciate the great info!! This will be my next project on the to-do list. I hate working under the hood with crud everywhere.

 

One other thing, what's your opinion on changing the trans fluid? I am at 187k miles and the fluid was changed at 140k so it is a little overdue. I am not sure what it was changed with since it wasn't done at the dealer. I will definitely put honda fluid in I am just worried about screwing the trans up.

 

Change it when you can. Ideally 30K would be nice to do, but hell I get up to 40K sometimes in a blink before I sit there in traffic and D'oH! realize it's been a while. Although with the 90-97s it's not a death sentence, hell these transmissions seem to be able to clear 200-250K with no attention done to them.
Last time I was at the dealer getting fluid they still had the old stuff, I thought I read somewhere that there is new stuff. Dunno if you can extend the service intervals with the new stuff. I'll have to ask the tech at the counter next time.


Slight maintenance update. Finally got around to the rear pads, and they were installed incorrectly. Pads with the wear sensor tang were on the wrong sides, only when backing up would the screeching occur. New pads on and no more screeching. Bled the two calipers just til the fluid was no longer black. System still needs a complete bleed. Hand brake needs adjustment, go well past the 6 clicks before there is any bite, it was the same before the pads were changed so its not a caliper issue, just a sloppy cable one.

Rear wheel bearings and hubs appear to be new. Front rotors appear to be new Centrics, still has the cross hatch pattern on the rotors.


Next will need to clean the interior, not my forte. Anyone know how to remove what appears to be lipstick from the cloth backseat?

 

Thanks for the great info! It sounds like your making quick progress with your ride. At least you don't have to deal with the rust we do on the east coast. I've already replaced the return fuel line and I have a feeling that will not be the only one Try some goo gone for that lipstick.

 

Finally gandered at the transmission tag it is MPJA, or in English JDM Odyssey transmission.
Gotta love them low gears. Looks like the axles were replaced as well.

Knowing my luck the damn thing will get T-boned or stolen...


HAH!

 

Looking over the records again and did not see any tune-ups, only oil changes, since the above smog test.

The car had a good 20min drive before going to a local smog station.

15MPH__1787rpm__15.1%CO2__.1%O2__HC@15ppm__.03%CO__NOx@15ppm
25MPH__1890rpm__15.1%CO2__.0%O2__HC@7ppm__.02%CO__NOx@74ppm

Completely forgot about the air filter which is still filthy.

 

Would anyone be able to take a picture of their stock intake and AT throttle lever control cable routing, por favor?

It appears whoever installed the transmission crammed the control cable under the distributor. The '95 has an AEM intake and I don't recall how it routed over the stock rubber hose. There appears to be two holders molded into the '97s intake tract, but the control cable is too small to fit into those.

TIA.

 

If this is what you're looking for. I had the same intake, the green color is how its supposed to be routed. Should be a small clip that holds it up against the radiator hose over the starter.

 

I found a broken clip that was attached to the larger AC hardline.
The metal standoff that is attached to the transmission appears to have been left on from the Odyssey and attempts to route the cable into the distributor.

Tried routing the cable in a more natural flow, but its time crammed under the distributor has given it a memory that is not natural. I'll probably have to readjust the cable at the transmission end to get it to clock correctly. Seems a bit on the tight side as is.

 

I'll need to locate an Accord transmission cable holder to properly secure the downshift cable. Kinda of annoying that that bracket wasn't transferred in the swap, bah!

The front tires do not seem to be wearing anymore on the inside tread, in fact it looks like that tread is not even touching the ground. Simply, I think the PO never checked tire pressure and drove on under-inflated tires and chewed em up. BAH!

Everything was going pretty well however...
A New Challenger appears!
Squeaking coming from the right front, seems to be from the big radius rod bushing, I think the hacks, as they will now be known as, did not fully tighten or properly tighten the radius rod bushing after transmission replacement.

BAH!

 

The squeak only happened during that one day, strange. I still should check the bushing, but damn am I getting frigging lazy(re:fat) these days.

Some miles under the car, the front right wheel bearing was definitely giving off the classic worn bearing(driving on sand/gravel sound) while on smooth tarmac. So for S&G, since the front end has been apart at least three times prior, I decided to see if the front stub axles were actually torqued;

-Jacked up the nose
-Pulled the wheels
-Removed the center caps
-Un-staked the axle nut
-Reinstalled wheels
-Lowered car
-Broke Axle nuts loose, backed them off, snugged them back down hand tight
-Torqued the nuts, and they rotated an additional 30° past where the nuts were staked.
-Jacked up the nose, again.
-Removed wheels
-Restaked nuts
-Reinstalled wheels
-Lowered car
-Installed center caps and went for a drive.

Much quieter, although under braking the right front gives off a growl, but the sand/gravel sound is gone. The left is really quiet, I did not notice it was noisy at all until it stopped, funny how that works.

Going add this to my 30K mile checkup, might make the wheel bearings last longer*shrug*

 

can you post pictures of the said accord?