i know that the h22 is notorious for its issues and im now getting a taste of that. which has made me regret getting rid of all my b series motors. but any way. i recently picked up a 94 accord ex with a h22a in it, after picking up the car i realized it didnt have the pep an h22 should have and also noticed that it seemed to be sluggish at times, as if its struggling to move. so i did a complete tune up, oil change, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter. during that process i noticed there was still a slight missfire, so i started pulling wires from cylinder and found that cylinder four seems to be dead, after pulling the plug there was no change in idle or how the motor ran, so i ran a compression test and it was good, 150 on the second crank 220 after forth, so i switched injectors around and still the same issue, checked resistor box and its good, all injectors are getting around 4ohms, and injectors clips are gettinf power as well, i have a code for egr so i removed it and cleaned the egr thorougly, im at a stand still with this and dont no what more to do, ive read tons of thread on the site without getting many answers that i havent already tried. if any one could give me any insight it would be greatly appreciated.

also forgot to mention the car is running a p13 ecu.

 

What about spark on that cyl #4? Have you test for that; since, you said it's got compression numbers and injector?

H22's a good engines. It's usually the installer's error on that part. If you know what you're doing and gather everything and all the info you need to make the H22 work, it'll drive like how it should be from the get-go after the swap. But some people have no clue what they're doing; as a result, they dig them self into a deeper mess which is a headache nightmare that it should've never been; since, it's a simple swap.

 

cylinder four has spark as well, i wish i had more thoroughly inspected the car before grabbing it but it was for a good price so couldnt have turned it down, cylinder four has spark, my firing order is correct, i know some people get it mixed up some times. i dont drive the car hard at all especially after figuring this out, but before i noticed it the car pulls pretty good, doesnt burn or leak anything, no ticks taps etc. now i just want to figure out the issue, i know the egr ports are a common problem but some one had already done that, they are all shut with what looks like jb weld.

 

"found that cylinder four seems to be dead, after pulling the plug there was no change in idle or how the motor ran, so i ran a compression test and it was good, 150 on the second crank 220 after forth,"

Can you put that in layman's terms ?

 

im sorry i dont understand... im not to good at trying to explain things and i apoligize for that. also since both of you have the h22a swap, when does vtec engage for you? im running the p13 and vtec engages at 4k, and motor seems to have no power any where above 5500. again i havent got on it since i found out i was having an issue but this didnt seem rite to me

 

Mine has Skunk2 Pro2 cams and VTEC is set at 5.7K RPM.

 

do u happen to no what its set to engage on the p13 ? any ideas on were to begin with this thing ?

 

I believe it's at 5.2K RPM.

 

so then theres something not rite? i opened up the ecu and everything looked fine, didnt see any burnt spots nor smell anything. im lost

 

I am running a 98 ex w/ a full Jdm swap.
H22a, M2B4 and P13.

My vtec engages at 5,200



Dayton

 

 

can any one else help me out give me some kind of insight ?

 

If you have a p13 your vtec most certainly is NOT engaging at 4k. I'm not sure what's giving you that impression.

vtec usually engages around 5200 and you can hear it clear as day...what is your car currently redlining at ?

If I had to guess I would say your swap doesn't have pins A6 and A10 swapped as should be for your particular accord generation

 

could be the iab opening at 4k.
have you checked that timing is spot on the cams and crank?
is the check engine light still on?
when you say you cleaned the egr i am betting you did not actually open the ports and clean them out in the manifold, but just cleaned the spot aorund the valve.

and definitely check those pins that holmesmanny mentioned.

 

i can promise you vtec is engaging at 4000, i will record a video to show, and as for readline im unsure because i havent tried to redline it. i myself swapped pin a6 and a11 because thats what i had read during my search, now the o2 sensors heater code is gone but the egr code still remains.

 

cel is still on for egr, no i did not drill the ports out, this mani doesnt have plugs it looks like welded aluminum over where the ports are/ would be. i took off the actual egr and cleaned that.

 

same here. i have 3 cars with h22's all at 5100-5200 crossover

 

im going to upload the video and post the link in just a minute, at 4k it crosses over very clearly, ive owned nothing but dohc vtec motors and no the sound, as crazy as it sounds its hitting at 4 and the car has like no high end power, any where over 5500 is nothing really

 

hopefully this link works, its the best quality video i can get, and clearly shows the crossover at 4k

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http:%2F%2Fvid161.photobucket.com% 2Falbums%2Ft208%2Fitsmex0surprise%2FIMG_1311.mp4">

 

http://s161.photobucket.com/user/its..._1311.mp4.html

 

By the video is crossing over at 4k, but with a P13 it should not be.
From what I have found a P13 can not be chipped or tuned, so with that....
Is your speedo and tach accurate?

 

speedo is correct and tach is as well, i double checked to make sure its a p13 and it is. im beyond confused with everything

 

hook up a timing gun with a tach and check the rpms against that

 

is that your oil light on ?

 

i dont have access to a timing gun like that as of now, no the cel is flashing and the abs light is on. is there another way to check the rpm ? i mean the car idles at a little under 1k and seems fine, can i just cruise at a certain speed in 5th and see what the rpm is at that to check that way ?