I got some questions about a 5 speed swap, questions which the guides I read are not very clear on.

-When jacking up the car for the AT removal, should I lift all 4 sides or just lift the front up? The guide said to lift the front up as high as possible but that doesn't sound safe at all. 4 sounds safe. Especially when removing the transmission. I think lifting the car all the way up should be done in intervals and not at once, that is the safest way I think.

-Do I have to use an engine crane to support the engine with the transmission and its mounts unbolted or can I just use a good floor jack with a block of wood underneath the oil pan?

-Should I get this transmission jack for underneath?

http://www.harborfreight.com/450-lb-...ack-39178.html

Should I buy a new flywheel along with clutch, if so which one should I get? Does this one look alright?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/XTD-STAGE-2-CLUTCH-10LBS-FLYWHEEL-KIT-PRELUDE-ACCORD-H22-H23-F22-F23-/200911801408?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AAccord&hash=item2ec746cc40&vxp=mtr


Thanks guys.

 

Thats what you may think, but it is safe with just two up front. As long as you are sure that the car has sit on the jack stand properly and does not move around when you go to shake it down. I've seen and have done it with just two jack stands up front, none in the back.

You can, it's really up to you. Which ever is easier for you. Most of the ppl use a floor jack and support the oil pan with a block of wood or some rubber pads made for this kind of work as support.

If you have the money, go for it as it will help. But a floor jack will also do the trick.

I would only get Exedy, Competition, ACT, or any other well known brand. I tend to stay away from Ebay brand, because I bought a F1 Racing stage 1 clutch kit and it couldn't handle the heat of launching at all. As a result, I had to force it in gear and coast down the drag strip.

I went with Exedy stage 1 clutch and 8lbs Fidanza and have never give me any problems whatsoever. Satisfied with what I got.

 

That's good to know. Only thing i'm thinking about now is how I am going to remove the tranmission from the donor junk car without a jack cause the place doesn't allow jacks cause the cars are already 1- 2 feet up in the air on steel wheels. They do have lifts you can borrow though. I'll figure something out. I have a choice between an H23 and an F22 transmission, which one would you get?


If I used a jack to support the engine that means I would need two floor jacks. I don't even have 1 floor jack. I think I would rather have the trans jack and a floor jack than 2 floor jacks.


Stage 1? What about Stage 2, what's the difference?

So far i've heard mixed reviews, some call the XTD (ebay clutch) a rip off and others say its good.

-About flywheels, do I have to buy the flywheel too or do I just need the clutch and that bearing looking thing?

-Is that all I would need for the transmission to be OKAY is a new clutch and bearing looking thing (throw out bearing)?

-And another thing, the transmissions I am looking at have over 150,000 miles on them each, should I expect them to be in good condition internally or ground up? I have no idea about what im in for with used transmissions I don't know anything about manual transmissions.



Thanks so much for your replies you're a Godsend.

 

No you have to have a flywheel. That's what the clutch grips to and the weight helps the engine keep its momentum.
manual transmissions are pretty much solid. Get one with a warranty.
Stage 2 is just a beefier clutch and can handle more torque. If your car is stock or close to it and you intend on keeping it that way, you just need an oem spec clutch. A clutch has to slip a little bit or it will be a total bitch to drive. And definitely stay away from eBay brands, just to be safe. Exedy, competition, ACT are all great brands. Exedy has an oem spec clutch for our cars for only $133.50 on amazon. Comes with everything you need. (minus flywheel)

 

So will stage 1 clutch be alright? The car is not stock and It has about 150 hp right now to the crank. Aiming for 200. I don't want it to be a bitch to drive it though lol.

 

I did my conversion on a weekend with one floor jack. As long as you use axle stands and your ebrake you are perfectly fine to only raise one end. Your manual transmission will need to be pushed towards the engine during assembly and not straight up like the auto, same with removal. Your car as it sits now will be perfectly fine with a stock clutch, a few bolt ons will show any significant stress on the clutch. Unless you actually go turbo stick with an OEM clutch. I am currently going turbo so I installed an Exedy stage 1 clutch with an OEM resurfaced flywheel.

 

Ok, a question on the ECU. I have a 94 VTEC, which of course is OBD I and for an AT. To convert I will need to get a ECU for a 5-speed. I am thinking it has to be VTEC as well. I have had a lot of trouble finding one at the salvage yard. I bought one from an LX (F22B2) a while back but I guess I screwed up there. I saw one from a 96 VTEC, but that was OBD II. If I just don't hook up the controls for the AT, I am guessing that will throw codes. Is there a way out of buying the ECU for the OBD I VTEC?

 

Is the manual transmission heavy as the AT is? The AT is a heavy beast, at least 100lbs with the TC on. How did you use 1 jack, did you have a crane above the engine to support it? I'm going to need to support the engine when the transission gets unbolted from the mounts, correct? And I have to get another jack to lower the AT cause its heavy.

Speaking of clutches what if I were to get cams and a tune and make around 160-200 hp would a stock clutch hold up?

 

It's better to buy the ecu. I've heard the AT ecu will cause it to run like crap but I don't know. Just to be safe I bought an ecu. But you will need the vtec ecu or your vtec won't engage.

 

I'd say the manual is at most 70 or 80 lbs. so with some help you should be able to bench press it up in there. Be careful with that though.
With power like that, stage 1 would be fine. Just to hold up better to the power increase

 

For myself, I'd go H23 cause it has a shorter gear than the F22 trans due to the fact that I love quicker acceleration. Thats me though cause I don't mind the gas mileage going down due to the shorter gear ratios, so I don't know about you.


You still gonna need 2 floor jacks no matter what to keep the car high up while you're removing the trans.

Stage 2 will be a bit beefier than Stage 1. If I remember right, it's close to a stock clutch but a bit beefier. You won't notice it anymore after weeks of driving on it cause you're used to it. Some people have had good lucks with them while other's don't. So it's really a hit or miss. I had bad luck with my experience on Ebay brand.

Stage 1 should be more than enough for your 200whp goal. I'm on Stage 1, and I'm making 204whp.

You will need a flywheel like mentioned above as it's part of the 5spd swap conversion. I have a 8lbs Fidanza in my setup, and I loved it. People say it'll be a b*tch to drive on it as DD, but I find that BS. I got use to it like a stock setup and didn't notice it anymore as I got use to it.

About high mileage trans, you won't know unless you installed it in the car or tear it apart to inspect. It's really a hit or miss.

 

Shorter Gear if You're going all motor. But if You plan on going Turbo in the Future then You want a Longer Gear.

 

As-far-as trying to get the Car high enough to remove the transmission. Used a Spare tire. Put the front (where You see the Lug Holes) of the spare tire on the Jack. Then put it on the side of the Car, like right in the middle of Your car. I always do this trick every time I do a motor swap and it gives Me enough space to just slide the Whole Engine out of the Car.

 

Sorry what's the Year and Model of the Car You're trying to do a Auto to Manual conversion?

 

Why in the hell would he have to pull the entire motor to put a 45lbs transmission in? I pulled the automatic out with a floor jack and put the manual in with my bare strength. I wouldn't exactly say using a spare tire is very safe, even though "you do this trick all the time".

 

I took it as a Motor Swap. From Auto to Manual. I though He's swapping to whole engine. I was just trying to help.

 

With all commotion aside I have taken photos of the 5 speed parts I have acquired. Most of these parts were pulled from a 90 accord EX. I want to know if what I have is complete or not and will be asking questions as well. There will be many pics ahead.

Here they are,

Brake and accelerator pedal:



From another angle (I need to know if anything is missing),



Brake pedal with sensor,




Here is the clutch pedal. I heard you have to make a special spacer on the top bolt to secure it properly, is this true?



From another angle,




Master cylinder,




Clutch line. It was easiest to pull it out from over the intake manifold...Sorry for the lighting,



The right portion of it,



Slave cylinder,



Bag-o bolts and bits,




Shifter with linkages. I found what I think is a shifter **** from a prelude. It was sitting on the ground at the yard near one. I picked it up and pocketed it.



Cover for the shifter,



Halfshaft (I had to order the axle),




H23a1 transmission,



Backup wires,



This was the only problem I found with it. Is this important to cover up?






Came out of there with all the parts for about $200. $90 for the transmission alone. The 6 month warranty is $30, I decided not to get it.


What is missing is the clutch, its bolts, flywheel, its bolts and motor mounts. Also cotter pins, and the T-bracket for the rear mount. I ordered auto to 5 speed conversion mounts from the guys at ESP racing, they said it would take 8 to 10 weeks. I'm like what? O well, that gives me time to work on the appearance of my car, right now its a brown mess.


Besides that I think I got it covered (do I?). Dropping and installing the AT to MT will be one of the hardest, but another one of the most pain in the *** parts of this whole thing in my mind are the pedals, especially the clutch pedal, and the wiring (which I have a good idea of yet dread the thought). I want to hook up cruise control and everything else to make it legitimate. I just don't know what they guys on Cb7tuner mean when they said to "wire this to the plug on the clutch pedal", does this mean I need to crimp a special adapter to go on the tooth of the said plug? Also, the backup sensor, I know I need to wire 2 wires through the firewall. Do I need to just cut and solder, and do I need to buy long wiring? How the heck do I get wires through the firewall?

 

Looks good to Me. Looks like You got all the parts that You need to Swap from Auto to Manual. As-far-as the Cruise Control. I don't think it's going to work either because of Your Auto Harness or ECU. See if You can get the ECU diagram, You might also need to Wire/Rewire Your "Reverse Light". GoodLuck!!!

 

The reverse light is controlled mechanically from the MT. You need to run two wires to the auto shifter to retain in.

 

You just have know how to wire it . Get the manual ecu - or if you are brave there is a way to convert the auto ecu.

Once you do that let me know and I can walk you thru how to wire the cruise if you can't figure it out.

 

Some on the Cb7tuner forum said they could use the auto ecu just fine in their 5 speeds. Thanks for the imput though.

Also concerning cruise control, someone on the Cb7tuner forum said this,


I have the connectors for the sensors on the clutch pedal too, just went to the yard today and got them,

 

I have a quick question. I am still awaiting the conversion mounts for the swap. While i'm waiting, can I start adding certain parts for the swap on the car? For instance can I add the clutch lines, driver side axle with intermediate shaft, master cylinder, and brake and clutch pedals? Which ones can I add so that my car will still be driveable?

 

Yes You can. Start putting the Clutch lines, Clutch Pedals.

 

As I said, you just have to know how to wire up the cruise control. One comment of the quote you posted.....If there is only one switch on the clutch you have to go a different route, what they posted is not correct.

If you only have one switch, that is the interlock for the starter. You would just "ground" the pink wire...WARNING with doing this the cruise will not turn off if you clutch the car!

 

I would install the axles/int shaft after the tranny is in. Makes it a lot easier to line the bell housing up.