HEY GUYS AM NEW TO THE SITE , SO AM STILL IN MY TRIAL PERIOD . I CURRENTLY OWN A FIFTH GEN PRELUDE AND UNFORTUNATELY I INHERITED A VERY NEGLECTED HONDA . ATM MY CAR IS DOWN THE TIMING BELT WONT BUDGE WHEN I BAR THE ENGINE OVER WITH THE STARTER BUT MY ACCESSORY BELTS DO , AM ASSUMING THAT (A) THE AUTO TENSIONER FAILED CAUSE BEFORE IT DIED I WOULD GET A TEMP SCREECHING NOISE UNTIL THE MOTOR WARMS UP OR (B) THERE MIGHT BE A SEVERELY BENT VALVE DUE TO THE AUTO TENSIONER .

 

If the timing belt isn't moving up top when you turn the starter over, don't try it any more, just pull the covers and check everything out. It may be a slipped tensioner, may be a busted keyway on the crankshaft, could be a stripped belt, etc. Prepare to put a new tensioner and belt on at the least.

Once you have the timing situation fixed, you could go 2 ways.

First: do a compression test with the engine cold, and see how it comes out, before firing it up.

Second: Fire it up and let it get warm ( if it runs) then do a compression test.

Unfortunately if it is at the point where the belt isn't moving, the chances are very high that valves have been hit, and you will need either a head rebuild, or complete engine rebuild / new engine.

It may be worthwhile to look at just throwing in a used jdm H22, with new timing belt, h2o pump etc, and try to sell the old engine as a core to someone who wants to build a block etc. If the physical head and block are in good shape, you should be able to recoup at least 200$ that way, thats what I generally pick up blown H22s for here.

 

Thanks for the response man i thought i was left in the dark with this one , but i do suspect some bent valves @ the least due to the auto tensioner . A jdm h22a or euro r motor and trans would be nice , but i figure i can just salvage the block re-sleeve it and swap the jdm 11.1 cr pistons out using the stock rods and crank if the machinist deems it okay. I currently picked up a separate head unit and am ordering a new valvetrain system for a mild set of cams .

 

If your not building it dont sleeve it.... Only reason to sleeve is if your going forged internals or boosting. You dont even need to sleeve to run the 11:1 pistons you want. Plus your looking at $1000 just to sleeve alone, a whole working jdm h22a long block is $1000.

IMO just buy a new long block, get a valve job done on new head, and put the rest of the money into some decent cams, or other bolt ons. Sleeving the block and buying the 11:1 pistons you will be $1,500+ just for a .4 increase in compression!?!?! Thats ludicrous..... What a waste of money honestly....