Just replaced the head gasket after purchasing new ARP head studs. When putting the studs in, 3 studs would not go into the block. I cleaned the threads, used a tap and die 10 x 1.25 in the block and on the bolts/studs. The tap seemed very tight in the threads and I stopped, did not force it. The die worked well on the oem bolts but was tight on the arp studs as well and would not go all the way either. In the three holes that would not work, the old oem bolts would screw into the block but the studs would stop after about 5+ turns. I tried the studs in other thread holes to see if the problem was the studs and they worked fine. However, I put the head back on and torqued it down using three old head bolts and 7 new arp head studs. This car is just for everyday use (commute to work and back), non-turbo. Will this be an issue for a leaking head gasket/warped head? I haven't started the car or finished putting things completely back together yet in hopes I would find help to my issue if this is an issue.

Thanks

 

It will be an issue. IIRC ARPs torque specs are well above what Honda spec'd there will be some warpage issues.

 

Thanks for the response. Do you think I could just torque all the bolts the same?

 

No. Either reuse all the original headbolts or fix the block and use the ARP headstuds (I would go with the latter personally)

 

Any suggestions on getting the studs in those three holes without stripping the threads? Is that 10 x 1.25 the right tap size?

 

Do you think I have already warped the head just by bolting it up with the 3 old oem bolts? I torqued the arps to 60 ft lb and oems to 47 ft lb. (I was afraid of breaking the bolts.) Or would warpage typically happen after the engine has readched max temp?

 

It may have warped and may not. It's going to have to come apart again, check it with a straight edge.

 

hey i have the same problem with my del sol s yesterday i came from a long trip and my engine overheated it was my fault because i wanted to get home early so i stepped on the gas i did 110 for like 5 to 6 miles one the parkway and when i took my exit the car lost power i stop in a parking lot and let the car rest for 15 minutes and when i started the engine puff the big cloud of white smoke i knew it was the gasket ...but my question to you people is it really worth fixing my D15B7 with 245k miles or get a better engine like a b series?

 

well, I got those head studs in. I ended up having to screw one in pretty tight. It seems the threads and holes matched up but maybe the coating on the ARP studs were just making a super snug fit. Either way, I got all 10 torqued down at 60 ft lbs.

Put everything back together, went to crank it, and it just kept on cranking. This is when I noticed a pretty strong jet stream of gasoline coming from what looked like the fuel rail area. Im guessing it wasn't cranking up due to lacking gas? Any ideas on what went wrong there? Any kind of seals with the injectors I could have messed up?

 

Just wanted to follow up, The fuel leak was at the fuel filter. I had to make sure the nut at the bottom was held while I tightened the on on top. No leaks after that! She cranked right up. Only issue now is the timing belt is a bit loose and now the tensioner doesnt want to tighten it. Ive been tinkering with it, turned the crank counterclockwise then loosening the tensioner, turning the crank until the timing belt tightens, then trying to tighten the tensioner and it just loosens back up. Now it seems like the bolt is starting to round off a bit so I stopped messing with it. I was thinking of putting a new tensioner on but it seems like a pain. Any ideas? tricks of the trade?