Ok, short and sweet.

94 Del slo w/ built b16.

Was out of commission w/bad tranny when I enlisted, so it sat for a year until I had time to come home and swap it out.

Took care of that over the holidays, drove it down to NC. Post-swap the car is throwing code 22, and has no vtach (it might be in my head, but it seems slower) Over a month or two it became apparent the TPS was taking a **** on me as well, engine would cut out briefly while driving and give a slight jolt.

Replaced it, adjusted w/multi-meter to correct specs, and all hell broke loose.



The car has a constant Idle at 2k.




This is what has been done:

Cleaned IACV, plugged hole for Fitv (or whatever it is) = Nothing

Unplug IACV = idle drops 1-300..plug it back in and idle stays the same but surges

Unplug Map sensor = car dies

Unplug tps = nothing (note, when I unplugged the old tps the idle rose to what it is now??)

Carb cleaner on all vacuum lines etc = nothing

bled the cooling system = nothing

cleaned the pcv = nothing

"relearned the idle" x 1000 = nothing




I'm ******* lost. I'm going to do a compression and leak-down test tomorrow just for ***** n' giggles. Whats left to be causing this? Ecu?

I have a p05 ecu that I sent in to phearable.com to get chipped. If it is the culprit what is it interchangeable with?

Appreciate the help ya'll

 

Are any CEL codes currently thrown?

After you voltage calibrated the TPS, did you reset the ECU?

Have you tested the ECT sensor?

 

Only code as stated is 22, vtach (or vtec - w.e)

Yes, method I used was pulling the negative off the batt for 10-15 min at a time. This was done multiple times.

Method of testing for the ECT was: plugged in - working/unplugged - not working (no temp)

 

Ohm test the ECT sensor when the engine is fully warmed up. It should read 200-400 Ohms.

And how did you calibrate the TPS voltage? Give details.

 

Seeing as its only 1 wire I'm guessing positive at the connector and negative on the battery terminal?

Lets say the ect checks out, what other problems could I be looking at?

 

This^ is the ECT sending unit for the cluster temp gauge.

The ECT sensor is the 2-wire sensor below the distributor. Unplug it and measure resistance across the two terminals, when the engine is hot.

 

Are all of your vaccum lines on the IM right?

 

This was done multiple times.

 

Ok I'll look for that tomorrow and get some numbers.

TPS method was off a diy on here. I spliced into the connector w/ some pins and thats what I got my readings from. I did adjust the throttle stop when doing it but I believe I opened the butterfly more..so the idle should be higher if that was the problem.

(I'm going to leave the above as it is...I'm retarded)

The vacuum ports that were not being utilized are blocked off, if thats what you were asking.

 

You should never mess with the throttle stop screw, which is set at the factory. That is likely the problem. If you can't get the idle set correctly, you may need to replace the throttle body.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/tech-misc-15/diy-how-calibrating-voltage-your-tps-sensor-2947986/

Someone should tell the mods to change this then.

 

I would not follow this^ procedure. There should be no need ever to touch the throttle stop screw.

The procedure is much simpler than described in that thread.

 

Ron, you sir are a genius.

I backed the throttle stop off and readjusted the tips to .50 (read 4.57 at wot) and its back to idling like a champ. Drives as smooth as can be as well.

I guess my other question is, when I did the trans swap I switched back to an OEM pan coming from a garbage morosso. Could that be the culprit behind no VTEC? Seeing as a dent can cause no VTEC, would a diferrent shape oil pan do that as well?

If not I have no idea what's wrong with it. I went through the list in the VTEC thread and everything checks out.

 

And for the sake of full disclosure, I used the newer vss from the 2000 si tranny which looked visibly different but from what I understand the function is the same.

 

Glad I could help.

Any VTEC codes? Do you have an ECU for a VTEC engine?

 

Yes and yes. P05 that worked flawlessly before it sat for a year.

And its been throwing code 22 ever since I got it running.

 

Solving code 22 is the answer. Is the engine topped off with oil and have you cleaned the VTEC solenoid filter integrated into the oil seal?

 

When you switched back to the factory oil pan did you also change the pick up to match the pan?

Morosoan uses a pick up specifically for it.

 

The morosso was not a deep sump, aka no special pick up. It was just baffled.

Ron, I always keep the oil at the top, but have not cleaned or pulled the solenoid. I'll take care of that tomorrow and report back.

 

Throwing code 22. Have you checked the pressure switch itself? Possibly unpluged or damged during your original repair ("swap")?