obd1 Dizzy question.
When ppl say 180 out or "retarded" what is meant by that.
My dizzy's wires are as such(pic). just wanted to make sure it's on right as im having some weird issues.
3-4
1-2
My dizzy's wires are as such(pic). just wanted to make sure it's on right as im having some weird issues.
3-4
1-2
the wires are in the right spot. im pretty sure... id have to check however the drive slot can be spun 180 out. aome have a slight offset so it only goes in one way, but ive seen aftermarket cams that will let it go in either way. easiest way is to put cyl 1 at tdc and pull the dizzy cap and make sure the rotor is pointing to cyl 1
The drive CANNOT be rotated 180 out. Trust me, I tried it. The slot is actually keyed in such a way that if you do manage to wedge it 180 out, it won't fit right, and if you don't use all 3 screws (like I do cause that bottom back screw is a bitch) the distributor will wobble around like it's bent.
You REALLY have to try and force it to make it 180 out. So if it doesn't just fit no problem, then that's 180 out. You won't even be able to get it to sit properly.
if it's correct it'll just go on no problem, no fuss.
You REALLY have to try and force it to make it 180 out. So if it doesn't just fit no problem, then that's 180 out. You won't even be able to get it to sit properly.
if it's correct it'll just go on no problem, no fuss.
The drive CANNOT be rotated 180 out. Trust me, I tried it. The slot is actually keyed in such a way that if you do manage to wedge it 180 out, it won't fit right, and if you don't use all 3 screws (like I do cause that bottom back screw is a bitch) the distributor will wobble around like it's bent.
You REALLY have to try and force it to make it 180 out. So if it doesn't just fit no problem, then that's 180 out. You won't even be able to get it to sit properly.
if it's correct it'll just go on no problem, no fuss.
You REALLY have to try and force it to make it 180 out. So if it doesn't just fit no problem, then that's 180 out. You won't even be able to get it to sit properly.
if it's correct it'll just go on no problem, no fuss.
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firing order is 1342 looking at the dizzy cap, it will turn clockwise. and some aftermarket cam manufacturers, mainly old ones (most dont make honda cams anymore) wouldnt cut the slit in the cam correctly for the offset to work right and it would let you put in 180 out. my old crane cams did and the dizzy bolted up fine, but when i got the engine at tdc the rotor was in the wrong spot. i spun it around and it was fine but one day it stopped running (wasnt gettin spark) i pulled the dizzy and the teeth were completely gone. i ditched the old crane cams and got some comp cams and been using them ever since. i think i got the old dizzy somewhere. i kept it for parts. i just got boxes of parts everywhere. the one in the living room has a gsr intake, some turbo piping a stock fan and shroud, and some other ****. Thats what happens when you move from a house with a 1200 square foot garage to a 990ft appt.
Last edited by Blackhalo6; Apr 6, 2013 at 07:26 PM. Reason: hideous typo
Bump: I still want to know what retarding/advancing means in relation to the dizzy. i know you can move it back n forth so to say but what's it do(if anything)
Retard=After
Advanced=Before
In relation to TDC
It changes the spark timing. If you advance timing, you're firing off the plugs BEFORE TDC (think of advanced as in early)
if your timing is retarded, it means its firing AFTER top dead center (you can think of retarded as being late)
Make sense?
We advance ignition timing because the mixture in an engine burns, not explodes. Burning takes time, so we start burning the mixture before it's fully compressed. Advance the timing too much, and you cause the mixture to burn too completely before you get to TDC, and you get knock (from the pressure trying to push the engine the wrong way around)
also, if you retard your timing too much, not only will you lose power, your EGT's will shoot up, as the mixture is still burning as it exits the exhaust valves.
Advanced=Before
In relation to TDC
It changes the spark timing. If you advance timing, you're firing off the plugs BEFORE TDC (think of advanced as in early)
if your timing is retarded, it means its firing AFTER top dead center (you can think of retarded as being late)
Make sense?
We advance ignition timing because the mixture in an engine burns, not explodes. Burning takes time, so we start burning the mixture before it's fully compressed. Advance the timing too much, and you cause the mixture to burn too completely before you get to TDC, and you get knock (from the pressure trying to push the engine the wrong way around)
also, if you retard your timing too much, not only will you lose power, your EGT's will shoot up, as the mixture is still burning as it exits the exhaust valves.
Retard=After
Advanced=Before
In relation to TDC
It changes the spark timing. If you advance timing, you're firing off the plugs BEFORE TDC (think of advanced as in early)
if your timing is retarded, it means its firing AFTER top dead center (you can think of retarded as being late)
Make sense?
We advance ignition timing because the mixture in an engine burns, not explodes. Burning takes time, so we start burning the mixture before it's fully compressed. Advance the timing too much, and you cause the mixture to burn too completely before you get to TDC, and you get knock (from the pressure trying to push the engine the wrong way around)
also, if you retard your timing too much, not only will you lose power, your EGT's will shoot up, as the mixture is still burning as it exits the exhaust valves.
Advanced=Before
In relation to TDC
It changes the spark timing. If you advance timing, you're firing off the plugs BEFORE TDC (think of advanced as in early)
if your timing is retarded, it means its firing AFTER top dead center (you can think of retarded as being late)
Make sense?
We advance ignition timing because the mixture in an engine burns, not explodes. Burning takes time, so we start burning the mixture before it's fully compressed. Advance the timing too much, and you cause the mixture to burn too completely before you get to TDC, and you get knock (from the pressure trying to push the engine the wrong way around)
also, if you retard your timing too much, not only will you lose power, your EGT's will shoot up, as the mixture is still burning as it exits the exhaust valves.
And don't forget, you can't properly time a Bseries without jumping the service plug first! otherwise anything you do will be pointless as the computer is constantly adjusting the timing on its own!
passanger kick panel will have 2 plugs. The smaller plug is your check engine code plug, the slightly wider one (2 wires, but with an empty middle pin) is for timing adjustment. Jump the wires to put it into service mode, then you can adjust the timing using a timing light.
passanger kick panel will have 2 plugs. The smaller plug is your check engine code plug, the slightly wider one (2 wires, but with an empty middle pin) is for timing adjustment. Jump the wires to put it into service mode, then you can adjust the timing using a timing light.
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