Alright im stuck and could use some help really need the car running
Its a 90 si hatchback with a b18a1 swap
B18b1 intake manifold ..pr4 obd0 ecu..ls obd0 distributor

Ok car starts up and idles good will drop rpms once in a while. But when cold as soon as i step on the gas to rev it chokes out and wants to die

Once warmed up itll rev to maybe 3000 if that then just bog out
Rpms will go higher than 3000 if i slowly press on gas
But the way it is the car cant be driven.

Codes thrown on ecu change but some are
Map sensor..tps..ect..baro
I tried another ecu today and i get no
Check engine and no codes thrown but still bogs

Tried another map sensor already
Tried different distributor

Really need help
Please thanks

 

Check the firing order.

 

Its good already did any other ideas

 

I had this problem last week with every single symptom except the MULTIPLE ecu codes. I only had one code 15 and it was intermittent. Other than that...the bogging, exactly how you have described, runs better when warmer but STILL has a bog that will stop you, etc....

Coincidentally, I also went through three distributors before I found one that was completely good with no issues. 1 had code 15 bogging....2nd had code 8 limpmode...3rd is now great and runs great! And my original code 15 came from a 6month old distributor...even new parts go bad. Is your replacement new or used?

If you have a friend with the same engine, try putting your distributor on their car. I confirmed both of my bad distributors by putting them on another car and they had the same bad effects on the other car too.

And yeah, check your firing order to be sure.

 

Yeah thats why im so confused
Ive tried 3 distributors all same

Firing order i have on is
On distributor starting at bottom left going clockwise(up and to right then down)
1342
Engine 1234 starting at timing belt

 

Someone else posted a topic called "Chunky distributor" in the last few days. We discussed the proper "feel" of spinning a distributor by hand. It might be coincidence, but my code 15 bogging distributor did NOT feel "ratchety" as I spun it by hand......it actually had a visibly loose and wobbly gear (that sticks into the motor) and spun freely with NO clicking.

If possible, put the ECU with codes on another car with same engine to see if all those codes still show up. I would use the ECU that isn't throwing codes (for now) and wait for that code 15 to show up while you are trying to drive it. It's a tough code to pop up...it's random.

 

I just looked up code 15 and did notice my car did throw
That code with one dizzy on. Which stopped working.
The dizzy i got on now is good tho

And yea if someone had a integra i would try that them using my ecu

 

The code 15 is sometimes hard to detect because it doesn't throw the code very easily. My "code-15 distributor" would bog/misfire all day long, and it would rarely throw the code15 after a long drive if I bogged it HARRRD. On the other hand, I also had one day when the car did not want to start at all....on that day, I turned the motor for about 5 seconds and the code popped right up. Oddly and without a known reason, it would not crank until after I had opened the dizzy cap..wiggled wires...and closed the dizzy cap. Then it cranked again, still had bogging/misfiring and the code15 still only showed up when I bogged it harrrrrd.

 

You can read these links to see if our problems sound alike. I am just guessing that you have 1 crazy ECU and 1 good ECU and probably a hidden code15 (they are random to light up the CEL.)

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/find-misfire-challenge-1991-civic-hb-3132268/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/chunky-distributor-3135469/
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/1991-d15b1-code-1-code-8-new-challenge-3135307/

 

that's me pressing on the gas not letting off it cuts off

and when it went to 4000 I pressed it very slowly

 

Reset the ECU to clear the codes and then drive the car. Post the codes that are thrown after the drive.

 

I reset ecu but there is no check engine and no
Codes right now
With both ecu's i got
Still bogs

 

In the video, is it trying to stall when the rpm's are falling? It looks like you tap the gas pedal to prevent stalling.

From the video, I can see that our symptoms are not exactly the same, so I am back to guessing. My code-15 distributor would hit approx 1500 rpms like a bogging brickwall. I couldn't rev higher if I wanted to.

I'd proceed by inspecting everything that affects idle, including IACV, Fast Idle thingy, and check every gasket/hose for vacuum leaks that are interfering with proper sensor signals.

 

Have you checked the mechanical and ignition timings? Are they set to spec?

Do all four plugs have bright white spark?

Do all 4 injectors pulse fuel?

 

Yea i have good spark and timing has been checked as well
Injectors do pulse fuel

I have checked all harness plugs
Tried different distributor
Tried 2 map sensors
Checked for any vaccum leaks
Tried different ecu

I did notice one time while car was on i was messing with the ecu plugs the big one on the right the car died while messing with that wiring.
But tried it again and didnt do it so dont do it allthe time

I did buy new ecu plugs with wires tho

 

If it is still trying to die when the rpm's drop the idle too low:

Click the links on his signature above to inspect the IACV and the FITV...and then check the FAQS link in his signature. I think the FAQS page has links to fully inspecting the idle issues. Most of these are simple tests and you can add them to the list of things that it is NOT.

 

Did you use a timing gun to check the ignition timing? Did you follow the service manual procedure?

Does your ECU match the engine?

If you unplug the O2 sensor, does the engine run better?

Have you compression tested the cylinders?

 

Yea timing was done with the gun.
Ecu is pr4 obd0

Havent done compression test yet

 

Unplug O2 sensor?

Also continue to check for CEL codes after running the engine.

 

I will update later
Thanks for the help ron and jdm rb20

 

Oh and the motor has aftermarket headers
And didnt have an o2 pluged in behind the motor
I know stock is usually by radiator no?
This one has the hole by where it bolts up to piping
I got an extra o2 sensor tho off a da b18

 

so you have it like this?


And your TPS is calibrated correctly?

Confused where you have your O2.
If you don't have it up near the radiator, then it's not heating up properly and not reading proper exhaust content.
Unlike OBD1, there isn't a heater element in the 1 wire O2 that you have.

Does the bogging happen only when the engine is warmed up?
Or does it happen when it's cold as well?

 

Yeah firing order is like that and tps is calibrated

The o2 on the headers i got is behind the motor

 

It's probably right where the h22 o2 sensor is. It is after the headers and at the end of the downpipe, just under the firewall and rear motor. Did you have to extend your o2 wiring? If so, may as well check the wiring for good clean soldered contacts.

 

Ok update the car has been at a shop for like 7 days and they cannot fix the problem. They have checked all sensors wiring everything.

They said its more than likely a fuel related problem
Fuel gage is reading 60psi when should be at 30?

Today he said he drained the fuel tank put a new fuel filter and used different injectors and the car was revving normal for like 3 minutes then started doing the same thing and is bogging again at 3000

I kinda have a feeling he just said it was working so i can get my car out and get his money for diagnosing the problem.

He says i should try and change out the fuel pump.
Would that cause this problem?
No codes no check engine right now