This was after I put a catless pipe on it. It makes a pretty big difference.

It was 7 or 8 seconds. Not bad for stock.



When I swap the opened up H23 IM i'll take another video.

Edit:

It was about 8 or 9 seconds not 7 or 8. Not bad either way. Last time I did this it was 10-11 seconds.

 

2 seconds to 11 seconds. Looks more like 9 seconds to me which is a more realistic number.

 

You're probably right. More like 8-9 seconds. The auto is slower off the line though if it was a stick i'd probably be 1 or 2 seconds faster. But autos shift faster so it might be a tie. Then again manuals are about 50lb lighter, so the manual may win.


Do you think an opened up H23 Manifold will make a difference? Gonna swap that in sooner or later, once I get the gasket.

So what do you think? It is slow i know but for stock its fast. This website says the stock LX wagon auto has a 0- 60 time of 11.9.
I must be doing something right.


What do you think I should do to it so I can go even faster? I was thinking a cam but that may require a tune. Stage 1 cam. Was thinking turbo too but on all stock internals it may not hold up all that well for a while.

 

You didn't load up the torque converter, that would help a bit as to getting your 0-60/launches up.
Brake + Gas -> drop the brake. Do it only long enough to reach your torque converters full stall speed. 2900rpm or 3100rpm based on which year trans. If you continue to gas it while holding the brake it'll heat start and continue to heat up the transmission until you start moving again.

 

Brake and gas, doesn't sound like a good idea. You mean e-brake right? Can I do burn outs like that? I don't really undrstand what stall speed means either.


I am wondering what the H23 IM will do, the one I gots gutted out and completely opened up. It will be interesting seeing the difference it makes. The manifold I have on it right now has only four 1 1/2" plenum openings. Good for velocity but bad for volume.

 

No, I mean hold your brakes, then hit the gas, the let off the brakes when you mean to launch. It will not let you do burnouts, but it will let you launch at the correct engine speed and it'll preload the drivetrain to prevent axle murder.

Pulling the E-Brake on the other hand will let you do burnouts, assuming you have enough engine power to break the tires grip and spin them without dragging the car excessively before it starts to burn em.

 

On the non-VTEC F22B2 engines I've seen pretty impressive dyno charts from people with Bisimoto cams and other goodies. If I were going to do an F though, I would seriously consider a turbo. I went H-series with mine and while it was nice, I think my money would have been better spent turbo.

You could also look into the BlackTrax IM spacers - those showed good numbers as well. I think they are discontinued though now

 

The gearing the manual has is much better suited to acceleration so even if the auto shifted faster, the manual win. (It would take quite a horrible driver to lose to the same model accord in a manual version.)

 

I have been thinking about the advantages and disadvantages of going with an H22 versus putting a turbo on an F series. I am looking for around 200 hp. Seems like the H might be the better/easier option of the two. Maybe you were looking for more hp than that?

 

200whp? Very low goal but obtainable with a H22 + N/A goodies.

 

Of course I would like a lot more than 200, but I want a reliable drive, and I have always concerned myself more with suspension and handling than a lot of hp. I like the idea of a turbo, but I want to keep my AC and am not really sure about routing the tubing for an intercooler, and what all else I would have to give up.