For my DD civic i've had to get a new flywheel and clutch twice(drove it till my car wouldn't move till 3-4 rpms both times it needed a clutch+flywheel). but in this case im noticing my GS-R isn't chriping the tires in 3rd anymore.(im catching it early) the clutch type is unknown and has unknown miles on it. figure i'll replace it before my tuning date mid/late april). what's you'r guys opnions re-use/replace I just don't feel like paying for a new flywheel/install. can't "DIY" this job sadly

 

well ,maybe you should get a NEW good clutch, idk why you would keep replacing the flywheel.

 

At the very least the flywheel should be resurfaced when a new clutch goes in.

Am I understanding you when you say you replaced the flywheel when the clutch started slipping, and not the clutch??? 94

 

Whaaat?

You've replaced the flywheel twice along with the clutch, but you have no idea what brand the clutch is or how many miles the clutch has on it???

 

No sorry I meant it had to be done also along with the clutch.

@therealtegger:yes in my civic DX i've had to replace the clutch+flywheel twice. on my 94 GS-R i've only owned for 6 months so i don't know what clutch it has or when it was done

@fliptard bad typo on my part posted with my phone

 

Not to be mean, but maybe you should learn to shift better...

Slamming gears and hammering on your clutch isn't going to help it or you any.

Shift smoother, learn your clutches engagment points better. I can sling through the gears on my car without man handling the shifter or kicking the **** out of my clutch.

My engagements are always butter smooth and my shifts are never abusive.

I can get a bit rough on the clutch when I'm driving up and down mountains, but even then I really strive to minimize the slippage between up and down shifts.

I have never had to replace a clutch or flywheel, outside of replacing my original 280z flywheel and clutch because the ring gear was chewed up, and the pressure plate had weakened. I replaced the clutch in my integra last year because the one that was in it had totally dusted itself (was worn out till it litterally turned to dust)

With 25k on it, my clutch still looks brand new. I didn't bother having the flywheel resurfaced cause I didn't have time/money when I did it.

 

Im just 17 this is my first "real car" gotta cut me some slack. what do you mean by clutch engaugeant points ?. yes i like to rip on this thing from time to time. but mostly i'll shift at 3-4k rpm and cruze town in 5th. AFIK it's on OE/OEM clutch no clue how long it's been in there as the car had some 16 owners. i've got a more appropriate clutch ready to go in(puck style).

 

The way to limit clutch/flywheel wear is to rev-match. When you're upshifting wait until the revs drop to the point you will want them at in the next gear. Then engage the clutch relatively quickly. If you do it right there will be virtually no slipping and no driveline shock.

It sounds like you're driving very brutishly. Especially if you're chirping the tires shifting into third. There's no reason to do that and it doesn't "prove" anything about how powerful your car is or how well you are shifting. Breaking loose shifting into 3rd is only impressive if it is done correctly and the engine has enough power to spin the wheels without help from the flywheel.

 

From time to time I like flooring it from 2nd up to 5th(slamming w/foot of the gas between gears). but 95% of the time i just drive around in 5th. From a stop:shift from 1st to 2nd around 4K(not slaming) then same to 3rd then jump to 5th. i always thought this was being gentle ??

 

Dude, seriously DONT flat shift these cars. that's just horrible to do and it ***** up so much **** it's not even funny.

It would be different if you had an ECU with a flat shift rev limiter in it (it's a lower revlimter that kicks in when you pop in the clutch so it won't rap out to the full rev limiter, like a 2 step)

And don't skip gears. That puts a lot of extra wear on the components to.

Honestly, daily driving you should be shifting around 2500-3000rpm, with nice smooth clutch work to where when you engage the clutch, there is almost zero slipping going on (smooth enough to where you can shift with no clutch, i'm not kidding, I do this from time to time)

You don't want to be dropping the clutch and having the clutch and driveline pull the rpm's down if you want a clutch to last. You pop in the clutch, let the engine wind down to the right rpm, then smoothly lift off the clutch. By the time the clutch makes contact with the flywheel they're both at almost the exact same rpm, and you will have nearly zero clutch slippage.

But NEVER flat shift.

Shifting quick is one thing. Yes shifting faster will put extra strain on the syncro's and the clutch, but nothing compared to what a flat shift will do. That sudden shock of the engine reving too high then JOLTING down is a nightmare on the entire driveline.

My up shifts can be a little rough on the clutch when I drive hard, but even then I never just pop the clutch back and have it slap into the flywheel (which can potentially shatter them)

I've been driving this car enough to know the exact moment that the clutch makes about 90% contact, and stop my foot there and gently lift off that last bit of pressure. I don't do it conciously either. I do with my own foot what most people do with a clutch damper (Idk how many cars use these, but for old vw bugs, a lot of drag guys use a small damper on the clutch arm, so when they drop the clutch real hard, it softens the blow so you don't have the clutch plate smashing against the flywheel)

My downshifts are always perfectly matched too. I'm a little obsessed with smoothness. I like being able to shift fast, with minimal weight shifting that you normally get. Same with downshifts. I hate it when I either don't rev high enough, and the engine drags, or I rev too high, and the car lurches

 

No, that's not being gentle, LOL. TBH you're driving like a hooligan. Then again I guess you're 17 so there's only so much you can expect...

Skipping gears is OK as long as you give the transmission time to spin down. Otherwise you're asking a lot of the synchros.

If you truly want to drive like a pro, try to shift fast, but smooth. Driveline shock and squealing tires mean you're doing something wrong. Let the engine spin itself down then pop the clutch the moment the revs match with your next gear. The shift itself will be almost imperceptible and it's the best way to maximize speed and stability without injuring your driveline. It's easier and more fun with a lightweight flywheel.

 

I've never full throttle shifted or hit my rev limiter when doing my little WOT runs. have never dropped the clutch in this car either did it all the time in my civic(thus the new clutch after 10 months ). as for in town 4k is high it's probably more around the 3k(could tone it down more i know). this is just a little vid not trying to show off just having fun if i can't shift pls say so when i say 3rd gear chirp i mean when im bringing it up to 7800 rpms(in 2nd) then shiftting on to 3rd

 

I misread what you said you said with your foot OFF between gears. I read off as ON.

It sounds like you're shifting pretty decently, but You're really beating on the shifter aren't you? Do you have a light weight flywheel?

Gagnar, what you described is EXACTLY how I have always taught myself how to shift. Quick, but smooth, minimizing driveline shock when I let go of the clutch. When I first learned how to drive, I was pretty mean on my clutch, I'd just hammer it off between gears and it was pretty nasty, but then I thought about it for a second, then realized just how messed up my shifting was when I was beating on it. Ever since then I've been obsessed with shifting quick, but smooth. I'm actually frustrated right now because my integra's stock flywheel just weighs too much for me to be able to shift quickly without really stressing out the transmission and clutch. I need a 10lb flywheel for sure.

I just don't understand how you can be burning out a clutch within 10 months though. I've put 25k miles on my clutch, and I beat the hell out of my car at least twice a month on the mountains. And I'm just using a duralast clutch I got at autozone I think.

 

I learned to drive that way because my car had a failing throwout bearing when I bought it, and I didn't want to spend $700 replacing it. Fifty thousand miles later I replaced the clutch and the bearing was still going. When I pulled my engine after another 30k miles there was virtually no wear on either the new clutch or flywheel. If you drive well you essentially don't use the clutch.

 

When I had my first car (62 vw ragtop) I learned how to heel toe smoothly, shift smoothly, and also, how to drive clutchless.

I used to do it as sort of a joke to my friends when they were riding with me. I'd cross my left leg onto my right, and cruise around shifting up and down around town like that. It came in handy when my clutch cable snapped on the way home from work.

Then it came in handy again when the clutch slave on my 280z went out and it only would hold enough pressure to use it one or two times.

I'm a little too obsessive I think about the whole clutch thing. I love being able to match the flywheel and clutch speed as perfect as possible, because I like knowing that when the clutch contacts the flywheel, I'm basically doing zero wear to it.

I'm just a little crazy.

 

Pulling/pushing it with some force not a whole lot tho. stock GSR flywheel

When i destroyed my dx clutch i launched it(countless times),speed shifted,learned city driving(smelt clutch) and got stuck in the snow sevearl times and smelt clutch. since i had the car it was 10 months when it weant bad. clutch it's self was probably 1.5 years old with 10,000km's i put a good 20,000+ of hard driving no clue what brand it was. have tried clutchless shift i can do it in my civic to scared to try in my integra as 3rd has a bad grind(came like that)

 

as long as you don't try to force the gears and you know what RPM you need it to shift at it's very easy. You lift off the gas to slip it out of gear, and as soon as it gets near the proper rpm, just give it a little push and it slips in without any grinding.

And yeah, if you can smell the clutch that's not a good thing haha

 

side question my shifter is really hard to move in the morning especialy if it's cold. heard somewhere that that could be due to the fact that "oil" insted of MTF was used. PO was not to bright....

reason i shift at 3.5 +/- is the engaugemeant is really rough if it's done at 2k or so. maybe i just need to work on my throttle control tho.

 

MTF is oil. Actually, the DA's originally were told to use 10w-30 iirc, until honda made their own blended MTF.

I don't think there's enough oil to cause your shifter to hang up, unless it's litterally freezing out.

It could also be your linkage gumming up in the cold!

 

watched a ETCG vid and heard it there. have new MTF to go in soon just need hose to fill it via the vss hole.

 

A well taken care of clutch and flywheel will last forever. My flywheel and clutch looked great after 30k and an engine rebuild. Sept some pucks came off the clutch. Pretty sure it was a manufacurer defect. They just came off the wheel, weren't rivited kinda looks like glue.

 

Why not fill it through the fill hole? Then you'll know how much to put in. If your grinding in third, some people like to put some GM syncromesh in.

 

Cause the fill hole on the side is an absolute pain in the ***. I have a long funnel used normally for automatic transmissions. I just pop out my speed sensor, drop it in, and pour in 2.5 qt of gm syncromesh friction modified, put the VSS back in, and I'm good to go. No mess, no crawling under my car (except to drain it) etc.

 

Is synchromesh an upgrade. That's new to me. Does it work better than the norm?

 

syncromesh FRICTION MODIFIED (specifically) is normally used for LSD transmissions I believe. Anyways, the stuff helps the syncro's grip harder so gear shifts are a bit smoother.