ED6 1.5L USDM All 3-door Standard

Mega Update since the original was outdated beyond belief.

First off, the car. It's an 89 Hatch and the previous owner did some questionable things. That's all.

Started off by fixing the bumper, it was cracked.



Taped off the car, sanding down the aftermath of hood scoops.



More Taping



Then it was time for paint so I taped off the jams and started



The paint





In the drive way

















Now onto the swap, started off with an empty trunk



The pieces in the car on the way home













Ended up leaking a little oil because the valve cover was not on tight



Swap in the drive way





















Started by swapping the water pump, timing belt and oil filter



Not a lot of pictures, took the valve cover off, need to repaint it



Don't have any more shots for some reason, but then I installed the clutch





Has to clean the bolts













Put the trans together



New distributor





Took the hood off and broke some things







Front bumper removed



Unhooking the stuff, took tons of pictures



































Some general knowledge pictures





Putting the new engine in. Here's a tip, drop the trans side down a lot. Then it will slide under the mount and then lower the driver side in. Definitely have the battery tray out, makes this loads easier and it's 3 bolts.



Threw an intake on it for looks, but the engine is in



Put in the SiR Axles and half shaft



Here's a tip for getting the axle to set if you are having trouble. The wood makes it easy to tap it in





General information diagram





Install the header



Took mine apart when I was putting it on. Make it easier than trying to wiggle it through



O2 sensor. Wiring the other one direct to the ECU



Installing the distributor, rebuilt T-22 I believe





Still have to switch the plugs on the engine harness



Installed the starter too



Radiator hoses



Started the injector wiring



The injector resister box



Still to come:

Rewire Dizzy
Installing brake hubs
Wiring Vacuum lines
Fixing the TPS
Installing clutch cable
Installing shift linkage
Install radiator
Rewire ECU
Wire VTEC
Wire injectors and resister box

Let me know if I've missed something crucial.

Also, What is this? I also have what looks to be a ground ring around here too



What do I do with the thermostat here? Mine didn't have this before (EDIT: This is the new hook up I believe, and the one on the back of the block is actually a Knock sensor. I THINK that is true. I'll have to check the wiring colors and the plug color)



Got the "EF B16 SiR Shiftlinkage" Thanks again unnamed user. It's just a DA shift linkage, not the hasport one it was sold as. Have to mod it I guess


Putting in the new brake pads


Bolt together the brakes


DA Brake knuckles


Jack it up in there


Pops in


After thought, removed this


Still not long enough


Research time






Continued in next post (100 photo Limit. BS)

 

Finally realized why my Vacuum lines aren't matching up to anything. Missing something here... dontcha think


Drill it out.


Started with the smaller, going deeper. Moved to the larger for the shallow portion






A brass fitting


Cut it down


Some JB Weld


Hold it in there


And it works! So far.


The Vtec Pressure Switch


Rigging up a temporary plug until I source one. For testing purposes.


Just a video of what's actually done since I didn't take any photos of it for whatever reason.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UdUQc...ature=youtu.be

Later,
Freeman

 

good luck! swap is pretty strait forward. yes, the civic std will need "new" knuckles. ex knuckles are nice because you get larger 10" front brakes but they have the same geometry as other civic knuckles so no alignment is instantly needed, un like using DA knuckles.

for shift linkage, it might be easier to go to the j/y, find a DA integra and pull the linkage from that then mod it as needed, i believe i has to be extended. search on here how to do it.
since motor is out, i'd suggest replacing the timing belt and water pump just for safety.

for ecu, consider swapping to obd1, you can sell your obd-0 distributor and buy and obd1/2 dizzy, and then you can run pretty much any chipped obd1 ecu with a b16 base map on it. you'll need any obd1 ecu that's chipped, or a p30 from a del sol vtec if you want to stay stock, an obd1/2 b series vtec distributor, a 4 wire o2 sensor, and obd1-obd0 jumper harness and plugs

 

b16s are always fun especially in an ef. good luck!

 

Clean

 

Thanks for the replies. I have an OBD1 distributor too haha. Came with the SWAP. It came out of an OBD0 car actually. But I'm going to stay OBD0 for now. I'm going to keep it OBD0 for the time being and save the OBD1 stuff incase I ever plan on replacing the rods and pistons to go with a turbo set up or something.

I did find an ECU (PW0), JDM CRX shift linkage (the one that will fit stock), a short shifter (since I'll be in that area anyways) and remote unlock. I know that's not really engine related, but I've always wanted one.

 

QUESTION:

Will the rotors from my hatch fit 90-93 Integra spindles? I'm going to the junkyard today to find a donor for the spindles and maybe some new seats (yippee! No more knarly STD EF Seats hopefully)

If not, I will go to autozone and get new rotors and pads for the new spindles.

 

I got some questions at the top if anyone has some input.

 

I personally get as high octane for my JDM B16A as I can. (Which is only 91 in my area) I can definitely tell a difference compared to 87. I get better gas mileage, smoother idle and a touch more power out of the 91. Don't know if it gets better for higher than 91.

Are you looking for lowering springs or performance struts with adjustable height?

 

i dont think the jdm crx shift linkage will work with a b series swap? like the other guy said, just go to the yard and pull a linkage from a da, you can look at my thread to see how i did mines to give you an idea of one way to do it.

and you might as well grab the whole knuckle and everything if your going to do a disc conversion in the back from a da, and the b16 is vtec no? all vtec motors are recommended premium

 

Took them with my phone and uploaded them, not sure what's going on.

 

I can get 93 in my area so I'll try that. I know my D15 HATES good gas. So that's why I asked.

As for lowering springs or adjustable height, probably just better/lower springs. Like Tein or something. I think fully adjustable coilovers may be out of my range for the time being and I don't really plan on corning hard or anything like that.

The B series CRX shift linkage is what I found and purchased. It's suppose to work with this. Because the SIR I came from a CRX from what I've read. I'll look at your thread anyways.

I'm not doing a rear disc conversion. I am just trying to get front knuckles to fit the axles. And I'm sure these axle will fit fine. They have been ran with this motor before. The B16 is a VTEC so I will definitely go premium.

 

UPDATE: 4/9/2013

My Bug should be running this weekend so I will probably start this swap.

I got some more parts and pieces:
PW0 ECU
Shift Linkage
DA Teg Spindles
DA Teg throttle cable
Short shifter (forgot the "rated" throw or whatever)

I refinished the headers. Got rid of the surface rust and went to town with several coats of high temp enamel. I'm going to do the same to the axles.

I am trying to find a "cold air" intake. I have one but I have to piece together a way to connect it to the throttle body since the tube is far too large. It has a really nice looking K&N Air filter on it.

I think I have everything together for the swap to go right in and work. I need to conver to MPFI on my DPFI and run the wires for VTEC and rewire several connections on the ECU to accept the B series.

Rest assure, I at least read up on this before I started.

 

Looks good, can't wait to see it done

 

Me neither. I am finishing up my other car this weekend, I just have to do minor wiring and install the engine. Then clean it and maybe bleed to brakes. But other than that, it's ready to drive.

My honda project/swap should take the better part of two weeks I'm hoping.

 

Anyone try running meth through one of these? I don't want to waste the time making and installing a system if it's going to blow the block. I know nitrous takes a toll on these quick but I don't think methonal adds as much heat to the engine (I believe it has cooling properties actually) but I have minimal honda experience.

 

Take a look at sprint springs. Had a set on an EF years ago and the ride was really liveable and just hard enough for the corners. I've also had, tein springs/coilovers and driven on many other brands, but the sprints always stuck with me. I am doing another EF project now and will get them again. Good luck with the swap!

 

I definitely will and I am getting started on this swap this weekend or the next depending on whether or not I can get my VW to crank this weekend.

 

Had some VW problems, but whatever. Got some stuff done on this. Been doing purchasing mostly and working slowly.

 

Finally making progress. Just wiring and tubes left really. And the brake hub reinstall. Closing in... closing in.

 

Did some more wiring and such. Should be almost done.

 

More updates.

Curious why no one has posted anything in 3 months. Hmmm. I have been updating the original 2 posts, not adding more to the consecutive posts.

Should be doing some testing this weekend. I think my trans was in gear and that's why it was a pain to move, never know till I get the linkage in! However, I pressed on the clutch and it rolled down my driveway. So I assume it's in gear.

Should an ACT Clutch be hard to press? It's a lot stiffer than stock. It is a stage... something... racing clutch I guess.

 

Update, since I Finished installing it and got it working. I took more pictures but since it's not letting me use photobucket, I'll just attach a couple.

I am going to be chipping a PR3 for kicks just to dabble in tuning for awhile.

Plan to boost this car eventually. We will see.

 

Ignore all the zip ties that I haven't cut haha.

 

Looks good man! I had a question. I noticed that you went back and took off the dust rings off the knuckles, even though they are DA knuckles. I read that you don't have to take off the dust ring if your using DA knuckles. When I did my swap I didn't take them off and one (if not both) axles started to pop a lot not much longer. I'm just wondering, what made you do it? Was it something you noticed while fitting the axle in or something? I get the feeling I should take mine off.