Options For Tearing Through a Rattlecan Paintjob
So my EJ1 has this really badly done rattlecan paintjob all over it. Badly done as in overspray on parts of the windows, missed areas in the door jam, overspray on the trunk, and the paint's chipping in lots of places as well. So I'd like to plan out what to do now. So I have some ideas:
This video said to use lacquer thinner to remove the spray paint, but from the look of it, some of the original paint was thinning too. I dunno though, what do you guys think?
I heard I can tear through a bad rattlecan paintjob with a pressure washer as well. Just go to a car wash, pay the fee, and blast it all off with a few bucks or so. Anybody know anything about that?
I know there's the old wet sanding method, but wouldn't that dull the original paint too?
Those are all the methods I can think of, any others out there?
This video said to use lacquer thinner to remove the spray paint, but from the look of it, some of the original paint was thinning too. I dunno though, what do you guys think?
I heard I can tear through a bad rattlecan paintjob with a pressure washer as well. Just go to a car wash, pay the fee, and blast it all off with a few bucks or so. Anybody know anything about that?
I know there's the old wet sanding method, but wouldn't that dull the original paint too?
Those are all the methods I can think of, any others out there?
Last edited by Zeronamous; Mar 30, 2013 at 09:51 PM.
Pressure washer will take it off if the 'painter' didn't sand before laying down the spray paint or if a softer grit was used that didn't allow the paint to stick well..
It's tough cause thinner does eat at the original paint but how good is it going to be anyways? Wet sanding the spray paint layer, you'll most likely go through the original paint in some areas..
If I were you, I'd forget about saving the original paint and just taking a DA sander to the whole car and primer the whole thing.
If you use 600 grit to cut main areas and work your way up, the clear will buff back but this will take a while to get all the rattle can off, reason being why a DA is best.
It's tough cause thinner does eat at the original paint but how good is it going to be anyways? Wet sanding the spray paint layer, you'll most likely go through the original paint in some areas..
If I were you, I'd forget about saving the original paint and just taking a DA sander to the whole car and primer the whole thing.
If you use 600 grit to cut main areas and work your way up, the clear will buff back but this will take a while to get all the rattle can off, reason being why a DA is best.
this is the down fall too all of the cheap paintjobs, you have to sand off every bit of it before you can lay down real paint. The hardest will be the bumpers and any intricate areas.
I don't know what route you're trying to go but. it will be a pain to try and get the rattle off and save the original paint. best thing is to get a DA. and get to sanding. I'd go 180 grit. then work it to 400. then primer it, if new paint isn't an option.
150 grit on the da sander. Take it down to where it's mostly original primer/paint , doesn't have to deal perfect , that gonna be your best foundation. Smoother it out with 150-180 tape off good and primer. You can build 2-3 layers of primer. And if you wanna paint sand the primer smooth with 400
180 before primer
400 before paint
clear goes on 30-40 min after paint. 15 min flash between coats. Lay your clear down real wet so it dries smooth like glass.
Spray the colour til u achieve full hiding. I've seen some nice paint jobs done with spray cans.
180 before primer
400 before paint
clear goes on 30-40 min after paint. 15 min flash between coats. Lay your clear down real wet so it dries smooth like glass.
Spray the colour til u achieve full hiding. I've seen some nice paint jobs done with spray cans.
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