Not sure how the hell on earth, the head of these screws is gone, and I am unable to crack them. Both sides of the Rotors have messed up screws and I can't open them up

Please see attached picture where I have highlighted in Red.

Was trying to replace the Rotors, along with the brake pads but now just did the pad and Rotors are still sitting with me.

Any input or help to open them would be greatly appreciated.

 

flat screwdriver and hammer... hit the flat screwdriver in the side of the bolt...

 

or drill and extract easiest way to do it. if they are really that stuck that the head is stripped a hammer and flat screwdriver will not work. what you could try doing also is turn those screws into flat head. why would you want to change the rotors they are new? if you really want to get rid of them grab a grinder and like i said make that screw able to accept a flat head

 

Impact screwdriver. Stripped or not,it'll get them out.....

 

I'll second that. Impact drivers work wonders

 

They are really stuck and head is stripped too

I tried using the flat screw drive and hammer, but didn't work, was able to put my flat screw driver but can't crack them

Also, tried using a drill machine with a philip screw driver head, but of no luck.

I just took this picture for representation, my rotors are in just reasonable condition, one of the rotor has rust on the edges.

Use a normal grinder? BTW, how big are these screws, if I can just use grinder on these screws to either turn them flat or cut into two pieces?

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks everyone

 

At this point I would say just drill it out. The head will come off and you
can remove the rotor. Just leave the rest of the screw in there.

 

I always use an impact screwdriver to remove them and would always break them loose. But if that fails, I just drill it all the way through.

 

I wouldnt drill all the way through just enuff to remove the head of the screw, then use vice grips on whats left of the shaft. Drill all the way through and you would have to tap and find a new scrw that would fit or not run them at all.

 

That too, but for my cars, I don't ever replace those screws. Depends how it breaks off. If none to grip, either I drill it through or leave it be. Just a hassle to have those screws, so half the time, I usually drill til the head breaks off and leave it be and remove the rotors.

 

Ignore what everyone that isn't saying "use an impact screwdriver" is saying and instead "use an impact screwdriver" instead. If that doesn't work, then ya you will need to drill them out.

Most people seem to want to try the hardest solution first, skipping the easist solution.

The key is going to be to make sure you give it a decent enough whack while keeping the impact driver straight to get the most torque out of it.

Make sure to get new screws, auto parts stores usually carry them as an assorted pack. Then make sure to put brake grease on the last few threads of the screws before putting the new ones on the new rotor. This will help to keep the new screws from binding. It's important to use the screws as they help keep the rotor straight when stopping at high rates of speed.

 

Impact screwdriver by any possible means, even if you have to chisel a slot for the flat head screwdriver. If that has been exhausted I would drill and do what Hidenplanvew said.

 

Really good piece of advice, I tried using the impact and was unable to break them, rather I stripped the head.

So, I just installed the brake pads and left the rotors like that

Should I just leave them like that? Please have a look on the attached picts, where I am showing the rotor with rust on it.

Driver rear side rotor has some rust on it, while the passenger side has no rust.

Looking for advice and help.

 

Your pads will wear unevenly and you wont get maximum life from the pads if your rotors arn't machined or replaced.

 

Did you get these out yet? An impact screwdriver will remove them. Even if the screws are completely stripped out and there is NO recognizable slots. The impact drive will drill into the screw and remove it. (You gotta wack it hard though!) Im a technician and have done this many,many times.....

 

I have not taken them out yet and driving with just the new pads

Could I just use a drill with a philip screw head and drill into it?

 

Is the philip head all stripped out? If so, you'll need to use a drill to drill them out. I don't ever bother to replace those due to that kind of hassle.

 

I hope that pic was before the new pads....lets think about this, yes the new pads are going to get the **** kicked out of them. However if that pic was taken after any amount of driving and braking was done...you have another issue.

That rust didn't just build up overnight....new pads and a proper braking system that rust would be gone in 50~100 miles of driving....as I said the pads are taking it in the a@#.

Just me but you have a caliper issue that needs to be addressed as well. I'll guess the slide pin(s) are stuck or not moving as they should. Again the clamping force of the caliper should have removed that rust by now....the rust is on the "outside" of the rotor telling me the caliper is not "sliding" under braking.

IMHO

 

Thats after if I remember.

 

Yes, head is gone

If you don't replace, how would you take the Rotor out? Or you just replace the pads, like I did

No, pict is after putting the new pads, I looked at the rotor today and rust is much better( going away). I do not feel any breaking issue, rather after replacing the pads, I feel breaking is wayyyyyyy better.

I replaced the pads, because the pads were GONE!

I am going to drive like this and see if the rust clears out in the next few weeks, if not, have to replace the pads too.

 

It isn't the pads....IMHO you have a rear caliper that is not working properly. The piston is prb pushing/spinning out towards the inner pad and the inner pad is making contact......I'm saying the caliper is not "sliding" and as such the outer pad is really just "along for the ride" and not doing anyhting because the caliper slide pin is stuck/sticking.

 

faran, they're saying you need to regrease the brake system. Take the caliper off again and the two sliding pins on the sides of the caliper "pop out".

Buy some brake grease...it must be brake grease as axle grease will not work at braking temperatures and pop out the slide pins and take all the old grease out...it will be a hard non greasy substance now...and put brake grease all over. You can use a q-tip to help get rid of any more old hardened grease inside the caliper bracket where the sliding pins go.

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/parts.../front-brake-1

parts number 14 and 15 in the illustration

 

You BOTH are absolutely right, actually there was no GREASE or anything, when I took out these '2' screws to open the caliper(Both sides were COMPLETELY dry). I even didn't use any grease either

You know what, some people really know their stuff and know what they are talking about

Both thumbs up

Should I just pop these screws out and grease them really well? How about the rubber tubing in which these screws go? Should I grease the rubber tubing too?Anywhere else I need to use grease? All purpose grease would work? After greasing, rust will also go away when the pad will rub properly against the rotor or no?

Thanks again guys

 

What I'm saying is drill them til it goes through and don't bother putting new ones in. That's what I usually do.

 

You shouldn't be greasing any screws. You just need to grease the sliding pins and the caliper bracket that the sliding pins go inside of. You absolutely need to use brake grease. Do not use multi purpose grease as that doesn't work well at high temperatures of the braking system. You should also grease the BACK side of the anti squeal shims that sit on the back side of the brake pads.

It's imperative to use the rotor screws. You just need to make sure to put some brake grease on the outer threads. Then each time you change your brakes just take the screws out rub off the old grease and regrease them. The brake rotor screws are needed to help keep the rotor secure to the hub assembly at all times as this is more important during hard braking and at high rates of speed or the rotor will be pushing more against the brake pads.