Adding rear 5.25" speakers to EF civic..with pics.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 705
Likes: 2
From: Texarkana, AR, USA
Adding rear 5.25" speakers to EF civic..with pics.
(I will post pics of the process and finished product tomorrow)
I'm too much of an audiophile to not have 4 speakers (minimum) and I am too cheap to pay $100 on eBay for factor rear speaker housings. What size were the rear speakers in the EF civics anyway? The ebay listings don't say, but those speakers look small....too small...
Time to get creative and start "ballin on a budget." I am going to be using 5.25" speakers because I already had 4 brand new speakers on hand. I am pretty sure you could also fit 4x7" if you want to, and possibly even 6x9" speakers if you wedge them in the non-speaker housing in the right position. Using 5.25" speakers that arent very deep, I can also retain most of the factory "pocket" in the non-speaker rear panels....this should help produce a little added bass response from these little speakers. After all, a speaker with an enclosure behind it produces much better low-mid range frequencies.
Tools needed/preferred:
Dremmel tool with cutting blade
small drill bit in any tool (for screw holes)
Supplies:
2x Wooden or plastic clipboards
screws to mount speakers
2x non-speaker rear plastic panels
"finishing product" (rhino-liner, fiberglass, etc...the choice is yours)
------------------------------------------------------------
For me, I have chosen to use wooden clipboards ($1.44 x2) and rhino-liner ($7.50 x1can). I hope I like the finished rhino lined outcome...if not, I will fiberglass&paint it.
1. Before cutting ANYTHING, align your speaker on the factory panel. Make sure to allow clearance for the rear seatbelt and the cargo cover. This step may disqualify larger speakers, but my 5.25" speakers allows clearance.
2. Use 2 long screws to secure the speaker in the exact position that you need it (so that everything has clearance.
3. You will need to cut the factory panel until the magnet of your speaker drops down into the hole. If you are brave, you can leave the speaker mounted and dremel around the magnet. Otherwise, it's mark/cut/testfit>>>mark/cut/testfit. Leaving the minimal clearance between magnet and panel will produce the best sound. Too much open airspace will allow all the airpressure to escape into the cargo area.
4. Once the magnet will drop into it's hole, tighten the mounting screw until your speaker touches the plastic panel again. Now check for clearance around the speaker's frame and the panel. With my 5.25" speakers, I had to cut away a little of the panel to allow the speaker to drop further and sit FLUSH with the top of the panel.
5. Once the speaker will sit completely flush with the top of the non-speaker factory panel, it's time to make a new panel plate. Take the clipboard and cut a round (or oval if needed) hole in the clipboard so that your speaker will sit FLUSH into the hole. Now, set that speaker/clipboard onto the factory panel so that, once again, the entire assembly sits FLUSH!!! (if it isn't flush, check to see what isn't clearing and FIX IT)
6. Use speaker mount screws to secure the speaker>>clipboard>>panel. Now use a Sharpie to mark the proper cutting line on the clipboard. Make SURE to allow clearance for seatbelt and cargo cover.
7. Unscrew the speaker assembly, and cut the clipboard.
8. Before proceeding, TRACE the completely prepped clipboard onto the other UNTOUCHED clipboard. After all, you need another panel for the other side of the trunk and it is way too much work to too all that test-fitting twice.
9. Finish your new clipboard panels in any manner you like (fiberglass, rino liner, etc).
10. Cut the necessary clearance cuts in the other untouched factory panel. It should be identical mirror image cuts to the cutting you have done on the first factory panel.
11. Install speakers with the new flat mounting panels. Use glue, adhesitive, or a tiny layer of weatherstripping if you want. This will prevent any possible rattling.
12. Run your speakers wirings behind paneling to the rear brakelight area. You will find the factory rearspeaker wiring taped to the brake bulb wiring.
13. Post pics of your finished product on here.
I'm too much of an audiophile to not have 4 speakers (minimum) and I am too cheap to pay $100 on eBay for factor rear speaker housings. What size were the rear speakers in the EF civics anyway? The ebay listings don't say, but those speakers look small....too small...
Time to get creative and start "ballin on a budget." I am going to be using 5.25" speakers because I already had 4 brand new speakers on hand. I am pretty sure you could also fit 4x7" if you want to, and possibly even 6x9" speakers if you wedge them in the non-speaker housing in the right position. Using 5.25" speakers that arent very deep, I can also retain most of the factory "pocket" in the non-speaker rear panels....this should help produce a little added bass response from these little speakers. After all, a speaker with an enclosure behind it produces much better low-mid range frequencies.
Tools needed/preferred:
Dremmel tool with cutting blade
small drill bit in any tool (for screw holes)
Supplies:
2x Wooden or plastic clipboards
screws to mount speakers
2x non-speaker rear plastic panels
"finishing product" (rhino-liner, fiberglass, etc...the choice is yours)
------------------------------------------------------------
For me, I have chosen to use wooden clipboards ($1.44 x2) and rhino-liner ($7.50 x1can). I hope I like the finished rhino lined outcome...if not, I will fiberglass&paint it.
1. Before cutting ANYTHING, align your speaker on the factory panel. Make sure to allow clearance for the rear seatbelt and the cargo cover. This step may disqualify larger speakers, but my 5.25" speakers allows clearance.
2. Use 2 long screws to secure the speaker in the exact position that you need it (so that everything has clearance.
3. You will need to cut the factory panel until the magnet of your speaker drops down into the hole. If you are brave, you can leave the speaker mounted and dremel around the magnet. Otherwise, it's mark/cut/testfit>>>mark/cut/testfit. Leaving the minimal clearance between magnet and panel will produce the best sound. Too much open airspace will allow all the airpressure to escape into the cargo area.
4. Once the magnet will drop into it's hole, tighten the mounting screw until your speaker touches the plastic panel again. Now check for clearance around the speaker's frame and the panel. With my 5.25" speakers, I had to cut away a little of the panel to allow the speaker to drop further and sit FLUSH with the top of the panel.
5. Once the speaker will sit completely flush with the top of the non-speaker factory panel, it's time to make a new panel plate. Take the clipboard and cut a round (or oval if needed) hole in the clipboard so that your speaker will sit FLUSH into the hole. Now, set that speaker/clipboard onto the factory panel so that, once again, the entire assembly sits FLUSH!!! (if it isn't flush, check to see what isn't clearing and FIX IT)
6. Use speaker mount screws to secure the speaker>>clipboard>>panel. Now use a Sharpie to mark the proper cutting line on the clipboard. Make SURE to allow clearance for seatbelt and cargo cover.
7. Unscrew the speaker assembly, and cut the clipboard.
8. Before proceeding, TRACE the completely prepped clipboard onto the other UNTOUCHED clipboard. After all, you need another panel for the other side of the trunk and it is way too much work to too all that test-fitting twice.
9. Finish your new clipboard panels in any manner you like (fiberglass, rino liner, etc).
10. Cut the necessary clearance cuts in the other untouched factory panel. It should be identical mirror image cuts to the cutting you have done on the first factory panel.
11. Install speakers with the new flat mounting panels. Use glue, adhesitive, or a tiny layer of weatherstripping if you want. This will prevent any possible rattling.
12. Run your speakers wirings behind paneling to the rear brakelight area. You will find the factory rearspeaker wiring taped to the brake bulb wiring.
13. Post pics of your finished product on here.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 705
Likes: 2
From: Texarkana, AR, USA
Re: Adding rear 5.25" speakers to EF civic..with pics.
This is still just the rhino-lined prototype. It is my first time using rhino-liner and I has hoping it would have provided a thicker coat so I could sand the edges. I will probably be fiberglassing the clipboard panels one day if I ever get around to it. Obviously, the finished result will be directly related to your skill in custom-work AND your attention to detail.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 223
Likes: 0
From: Richmond, VA
Re: Adding rear 5.25" speakers to EF civic..with pics.
good idea, wife's car has 6x9 boxes in rear, good 6 1/2 in doors for front presence, 6x9 for bass & rear fill. these are just zip tied to hooks installed in rear trunk area. inst hooks on boxes, close lid, add small 4 ch amp, shes rockin'. just my solution to the problem, shes happy. getting b16 engine and trans. be done by fri next wk.
enjoy your ride
dave
"time wounds all heals"
enjoy your ride
dave
"time wounds all heals"
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 705
Likes: 2
From: Texarkana, AR, USA
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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 705
Likes: 2
From: Texarkana, AR, USA
Re: Adding rear 5.25" speakers to EF civic..with pics.
Are you talking about EF civics or EF crx's? I've seen the rear speaker mounts beside the crx back seat, and they look like 6.5". But the pictures of civic rear dash speakers look like 4" speakers..they look tiny.
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mr_mbuna
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