Ok so I've searched and got no direct answer to my problem. I am having an issue with bogging while accelerating. Do not know what rpm because I have no tach. But after a certain rpm it accelerates normally. I had a hacked up harness which I though was the problem. Just replaced it yesterday. Did the ckf trick and wired in my secondary o2 simulator. No codes. I have ran a p72 GSR Ecu. A p73 Ecu. And a p2p single v Ecu. They all have the bogging under certain rpm. I've seen that it could be timing but here's the weird part. When I throw in my chipped obd1 Ecu. (Do not know what's on it but it runs the car perfectly along with no cel) so it couldn't be timing. Before I changed my harness I was getting codes of p0130 and 131. All low voltage problems. I am stumped. Any knowledge from h-t would be greatly appreciated.

1997 honda civic hatchback dx

Obd2a ex vtec harness

Motor info-b16a3. Stock internals. B16 tranny. I/h/e. fuel rail. Fpr set at 40 psi.

New-dizzy, harness

Please help lol

 

so the wrong ECUs run it shitty, but the chipped one which may be running the right map is running it fine?

 

Yes. All of the ecus that are obd2 make it bog but with the chipped obd1 it accelerates phenomenal. Not problems at all

 

Find out what is on the obd1 ECU or get the right ECU for the motor.

 

^ 2nd

 

Anyone else having similar issues. Any other advice at all? Thanks for the advice doctorake. Have been diagnosing this problem for 4 months now

 

doesnt sound like much of a problem if the correct ecu/basemap makes the car run right. since it is essentially a b16a2, you could always run an em1 ecu.

 

obd2 P30 would be the correct ECU since the Chassis has no FTP sensor.

 

Update. I did the ckf trick but doesn't seem to be working correctly with the ckf c1 and c11 pins in or if I got a code 9 which I think is p1337 which means to depin c1 and c11. p1337 is for the cyp sensor correct? Should I try de-pinning c1 and c11 again and see how it goes. I'm thinking of this because obd1 doesn't look for it right. That's why my obd1 Ecu runs my car so perfectly?

I know all about the correct Ecu to run. Can't seem to get my hands on a obd2a p30. Also my car is a 97. If I run a 2000 si Ecu which is 130 dollar jumper harness it will look for the FTP sensor which my car isn't equipped with so there's a cel I deff don't need!

Thanks for all the input guys

 

Check your cat converter.

 

Hi flow cat! I'm puzzled on this. Really don't get how this hasn't happened to anyone else. Got over 150+ views and got 4 replies on a Ecu which all of the Ecus ran my car fine except for the low range accel

 

Is this safe running open header? But This all boils down to something wrong with the ckf wire trick. I have my p2p running. I Like where vtec is at. But It will bog and I'm getting code p1337.

 

Turns out my pins for c1 and c4, c11 and c14 are not touching my Ecu pins properly or at least one of them. Anyone ever have this problem. Is there a solution to this. Am going to search a little. Just thought I'd share my almost fixed problem!

 

Sounds like it was his ECU not a cat.

 

So you are giving out stupid advice trying to troll members?

 

Nope. I've done it before it my car. It was quite fun. Pain in the *** to get the exhaust back on though.

 

WTF do open headers have to do with the fact that the OP has a contact issue with the pins on his ECU?

 

Word thanks dick. I didn't take your advice seeing that your ignorant anyways. How's a brand new cat gonna be bad in the first place. Second this post is about an Ecu problem. Why would I try some dump sh** from a person like you. Any ways back to real people on h-t. I'm having trouble with these wires. I'm now throwing p1382 and will bounce back to p1337. I believe it's a wiring/Ecu pin issues.

 

Have you tried simply pushing on the pins at the connector to see if they reseat?
Reported. I think people have had enough of you.

 

Yes I just had it running perfectly before. Once I moved my Ecu it bounced right back to code p1337. I've depinned connector c about 2 or 3 times thinking that if I were to remove c1 and c11 the cel would go off but all I got was code 9 so I put them back in!

 

I believe you are right...

I wish you would sign off and never come back....

 

Troll banned for 30 days. If they continue trolling upon return, don't hesitate to report it.

 

Thanks so much!

 

Did you find out what was on the OBD1 ECU?

 

No don't have a tuner or anyone who messes with chips. It comes down to the wiring for the ckf and cyp. I'm attempting to do the ckf trick. Harness is all hacked up again. Back to step 1 again. Coming down to just selling it. Been nothing but headaches with just this sensor for 4 months now. Kind of ridiculous. When I splice them together I get p1337 still. If I mess with the wires I get p1382 code 9 so I remove c1 and c11 and it goes right back to code p1337. CLUELESS