Hello all,
Hoping someone can help me with this. I have a 1990 hatch, b18a swap. First time, she moved about an inch and wouldn't do any more. Thought it was clutch so replaced that. Tried again. Still wouldn't move. Thought it was transmission so replaced that. Tried again. Passenger side tire spins when the car is on jack stands, but she doesn't do **** when I put her on the ground. Also the driver's side wheel is damn near impossible to turn, so now my question is, could a bad wheel bearing prevent the car from moving? Any suggestions on what I should try?
Thanks!!

 

Wheel bearing needs inspected on driver's side. If it doesn't move much in the air, then it won't do much on the ground.

 

Has it been sitting forever or something? You might want to put her back on jack stands and take out that axle to see if the wheel will spin like that. Also make sure your brake caliper isn't locked up.

 

Ya, she's been sitting a few years now haha. Just have no luck with this car as far as this swap. Thanks for your suggestions guys, I'll check it out...

 

Also, if it spins when the axle is out then what would that indicate?

 

^Either bearings or brakes. I would check the brakes first. Are the rotors rusted badly? I've never seen a bearing lock up from sitting, but I guess it's a possibility...

 

Ok so I went out, jacked the drivers side up, and popped the wheel off... brake pads were right on the disc, so I jiggled them loose and got the wheel spinning better... it's still dificult but its turning. Put the tire back on and tried her again. This time, didn't get anything in 1st or 2nd, but in 3rd i got kind of a whining/grinding sound, which was worse in 4th and really bad in 5th. I think it's not going all the way into gear? I thought the Sir linkage would have worked perfect...

Yes the rotors are a bit rusty, i've never changed the brakes in the 8 years ive owned it and shes been sitting for 3-4 years

 

Are the dust covers removed on the inside of the wheel bearing/hub? On my first ever b swap I didn't remove the dust covers and could not get the car to move. Using a DA integra axle is larger and it actually tightens up against the dust cover if it is not removed.

 

Dust covers are still on to my knowledge... I will try that out, thanks!

Were the dust covers what were stopping your car? Do I only need to remove the driver's side?

 

Just checked, dust cover is off at least on driver's side, I'm gonna guess they're both gone, had a buddy helping early on in the swap and I figure he knew to take them out...

Checked the linkage, seems to be all good. The hub does spin a lot easier without the axle through it...

Any more suggestions before I roll her into the alley and pour a can of gas on er?

 

Sounds to me like one of the axles isnt seated all the way into the trans

 

I was wondering about that, the driver's side axle seems to slide in without much effort, which makes me think there's something up with it. Can't remember what axles I have, I think I got them with the engine and original trans that came with it, but I'm not sure :S

Thanks, I'll try another axle I guess...

 

I had the same problem with my old da integra make sure theres a retaining clip on the end that goes into the trans

 

If the wheel bearing is seized witch it probibly is and you go to drive it very possible that wheel will fall off. If it was the axle not seating it'll make a scachy spun when u try to move it

 

Check and make sure the brake caliper isnt frozen also

I didn't read the entire original post lol I would worry about the cv shaft

 

Cool there is a retaining clip on the axle, and I dont think the wheel bearing is completely seized but it is a little stiff... Checked the caliper already it might have been a little seized but I wiggled it loose so it's not touching the disc anymore. Gonna head to pick n pull today, a cv is only 30$ if I can find a good one and I'll take it from there. I hope I'm close to making it work! Thanks for all your inputs

 

If the caliper is not moving freely just lube the guide pins. And if you feel like the wheel bearing is stiff, that is not good

 

IS the car lowered?
If so, how much?

Sounds like you have axles binding.
Make sure dust rings are removed.
Make sure you have the correct axles.
Lift car up to stock height if dropped.

 

Wheel bearing isquite stiff, I'm thinking i should get them replaced but i hear it's a bit of work. (Not that the rest of this hasn't been).

The car isn't lowered but the weight of the B did drop the front a bit...

Now for the good news guys. I went to pick n pull and got an axle today. Got home, popped her in, put everything back together, started her up, put er in 1st and let the clutch out and the little bitch moved. No strange noises or anything she just wanted to go. It works!!!!

Efcowboy- why would my wheel fall off? How dangerous is it to have a sticky wheel bearing? I'm concerned now haha have you had this happen? I'd like to know more about the possible consequences of not replacing them. My garage is blocked by snow for now so I can't actually take her for a drive anyway...

Thank you all for your suggestions, I was pretty bummed out about this car and have been for years. I honestly thought I would die before I saw her move under her own power again. It's been a good day since about 30 mins ago haha

 

It probably wouldn't fall off. The axle nut and disc in the brake caliper would probably hold it on for a while.

I would be more worried about it seizing. If the bearing seize, then they may cause the bearing races to spin in the hub and knuckle. They may "weld" into place and the heat will have case hardened them. Basically you would need a new knuckle after that.

 

So I'd probably feel some wonky looseness in the front shortly before the thing fell apart? haha

Well now onto the next thing, I'm getting a really "surging" idle, and code 4 (crank position sensor). I thought it was the 2 wires I added to the diz when I converted to mpfi but apparently I was mistaken... switching them around seems to have no effect whatsoever, which makes me wonder if I didn't have them right in the first place haha.

Thanks again to all of you for your help!

 

Surging idle is a vacuum leak.

 

Surging idle can be many things, not just a vacuum leak. Also, replace those rotors and pads, and get some brake lubricant for that caliper before you run into a tree when one of them sticks. If a wheel bearing is seizing you need to replace that before driving that car much. It's just not safe, and will save you from replacing the whole knuckle later on. It's great that the car is moving now though. Good luck on the rest. There are many threads on here about the surging idle and the code 4. You should have that thing running good in no time.

 

haha I might be an idiot, but I should mention there is no rad/coolant in the car... I seem to remember that some part of the fitv/iacv needs coolant to operate... durrrr

Got a buddy who is gonna stop by and help me with the brakes, I'll try lubing the guide pins and such before I go on to buying new parts. Don't have much experience with brakes.

Thanks for your encouraging words guys! I really appreciate that there hasn't been any hating yet haha. Also searched up some more info on that code 4/idle problem. Can't WAIT to drive this thing, it's been a long time coming!

 

The fitv and iacv do NOT need coolant to operate. Mine work just fine without any. Surging idle is 90+% of the time, a vacuum leak. Shouldnt be too hard to track down.