Hey Guys,

For a long time, I have used these boards to search, learn and learn more from everyone on here and I thank you guys so much to help out. I usually don't ask a lot of questions and try to spend time looking for answers myself by going through the board and finding answers and fixes. However this issue has me stuck.

#14) Alternator Solenoid Valve is blowing, during high REV/RPM Shifts and only under those circumstances.



Now let me explain what I mean to make it clearer. During normal driving conditions everything is fine. But during certain occasions <cough>, from stopped position and just dropping the gas and basically 'gunning it' once I hit around 65-70mph in 3rd gear at around 6200rpm (these are estimations but yes 3rd gear, at around 65mph +) I hear a pop and then the car just starts coasting. I lose all sorts of stability including proper breaking and steering (I can still break and steer but it its under a lot of load).

This has happen to me about 3x now and the local shops have no answers. I follow the advice on previous threads and have had the Fuel pump and electrical lines replaced 2x and it still is doing this.

Current set-up:

B16A
LSD- cable tranny
T3/T4 Turbo running at 6psi (only )
255IPH Walbro Fuel Pump
Stock Injectors & Ecu Set-up

At the moment I am really scared, because what if this happens in the middle of the freeway or a busy intersection etc.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated thank you guys.

P.S: If this has been covered before since I have been last on the boards, please just post the link I don't mind reading.

 

When you added turbo, did you add any other electrical to that circuit?
Was your car converted from DPFI to MPFI?
Was it converted from auto to manual?
(If either, then their may be a cut wire dangling somewhere.)

 

I just spoke to my friend who put the set-up in the car as I am the guy with two left hands. After asking him the questions you left here are the answers:

1) When you added turbo, did you add any other electrical to that circuit?

No, nothing was added extra.

2) Was your car converted from DPFI to MPFI?

The vehicle is an 89' Honda Crx Si and according to him it does not need to be converted from DPFI to MPFI if that is correct.

3) Was it converted from auto to manual?

No the vehicle was stock standard 5 MT.

Hope that added information helps track this down. Btw, thank you for the quick reply and diagram.

 

More on #1 -
So there are no extra gauges, EBC, or anything added for the turbo?

Try disconnecting the sensors/solenoid in the circuit one at a time and see if the problem goes away.
I would start with the purge-cut solenoid and see what happens.

 

As for sensors:

It does have a boost gauge and oil pressure gauge but no EBC. Boost is manually set by the Wastegate.

As far as disconnecting to see if the problem goes away, any ideas how to replicate the issue without driving the vehicle or can I even drive the vehicle with the mentioned sensor's disconnected?

As stated before this issue which has happen about 4x now in the last 6-9 months, as I really don't race my car only happens during hard driving once I hit 3rd gear under full load (meaning car completely throttled down and quick shifting).

I want to thank you 4drEF btw for taking the time to give me suggestions.

 

Purge won't throw an ECU code.
I was just trying to make sure none of the sensors were shorting.
More than likely they aren't the problem anyway - I just wanted to weed them out.

The typical issue with fuse 14 popping is the fuel pump or its wiring.
If you look at the branch of the circuit that goes to the main relay, it heads off to the fuel pump.

 

Yeah that is what I read as well. So far I have had them replace the fuel pump 2x once about a year ago (3 months later this issue occurred for the 1st time) and I started doing some research as this wasn't a frequent occurrence about 8-9 months ago.

I read about the fix about 6 months ago (took me forever to find it) and decided to the fuel pump wiring and fuel pump replaced with a brand new 255 Walbro fuel pump about 3 months ago. Thought everything was fine (again, haven't really pushed the car since then, as I don't really race.) A week ago when I found the opportunity I decided to test it out and it did it again. So I am back here on the drawing boards seeking help and advise from the expert. Other then that she is driving like a dream.

 

Sounds like arcing happening somewhere.

 

If I am reading correctly, you have changed the pump, but not the wiring, right?

 

Well I asked them to change the wiring as well and was told they did when installing the new pump.

 

I didn't read it all but I poped that fuse one time and my battery was on its way out. Also do you have the transmition ground contact points cleaned

 

I will check it out the grounding points and the battery. Thanks for the suggestion.