At least one of my wheels is making a howling noise when I get up to highway speeds and I just replaced my tires, so I am pretty sure it is the wheel bearing. I am trying to figure out if it is worth repairing myself. I have replaced my brake pads before, so I am somewhat familiar with working in this area of the car. My main concern is the job might require some more specialized tools, such as a torque wrench, which I think I should have anyway. I am also looking at parts I need to order from a dealer before doing the job.

For a 2000 Accord 2dr 4 cyl:

http://www.hondapartscheap.com/parts...ear-brake-disk

42200-S84-C52 BEARING ASSY., RR. HUB UNIT
90305-S30-003 NUT, SPINDLE

I saw a tutorial the inner bearing race can be somewhat difficult to remove from the axle.

Reference video: (2000 Accord)

Questions:

Any other parts I should get?

What type of torque wrench (range) should I get that could cover this job and cover other jobs like engine work, torquing spark plugs, etc.

Any other advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

 

The video is pretty good.

This job is pretty easy compared to some other cars or even the same wheel bearing on the front end (pressed into the spindle).

Aside from removing the brakes/brake components there is a dust cover and a big Nut in the center of the spindle that you must remove (I believe its 32mm, but I could be wrong). After trying to knock the stake (dent) out of the nut, you can remove the nut (impact gun makes it easy), and theoretically just pull the hub off.

In reality it probably won't come off that easy; when I did mine the hub/wheel bearing separated from the race, leaving the race stuck on the spindle and the hub in my hand just like in that video. I had to try soaking the stuck race with penetrating lube and then used a fine tipped chisel between the race and spindle to separate the two (still took a while). There was a tiny spot of rust on the spindle shaft that kept the race from coming off cleanly which I had to take off with fine sand paper. If you need to chisel the race of you'll want to take it easy, because you risk damaging the race or the mounting surface of the hub.

When installing the new bearing you'll need to torque it on to spec. otherwise you risk damaging the new bearing and having to replace it again. I believe it calls for 134ft/lbs but you might want to double check. A torque wrench that goes that high will be 1/2" drive and you probably wouldn't want to use it for any small/sensitive applications like spark plugs. If you plan on doing a lot of your own work invest in several torque wrenches that cover a wide range of torque specs.

Anyway, as far as the wheel bearing, you're supposed to replace the nut also, but not everyone does. I reused mine because I had no choice, but if you do this make sure you try un-staking the nut before removing it to avoid damaging it, then re-stake it after tightening the nut. I did this and never had any problems.

Hope this helps, Good Luck.

 

Hi, can anyone verify the torque setting for a 2000 Accord rear axle nut? 134 ft/lbs?