ect cel on my obd1 EF
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2013
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From: san diego
ect cel on my obd1 EF
yup code 6. the car is not over heating but when the gauge gets to the point where the needle is touching the temp symbol the CEL comes on with this code as well as a cel 22(which is probably unrelated, but i dont know.) i have checked the fuses, bought a new ect sensor as well as a cooling fan relay. i have tried jumping the plug at the ect sensor to get the fan to turn on but it does not. i have applied 12v to the motor and the motor works. i am thinking i have a short or a bad ground somewhere in that signal path. i was just seeing if anyone had any experience t/s this and could offer up some advise so one day i could get my vtec working again 
anyways thanks guys i appreciate your thoughts and inputs.
anyways thanks guys i appreciate your thoughts and inputs.
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 705
Likes: 2
From: Texarkana, AR, USA
Re: ect cel on my obd1 EF
Once a car hits "operating temp", that's when the ECU starts to use the sensors to maintain the idle. To maintain the idle, it begins factoring inputs from the temperature of the engine, intake air, etc. That's most likely why the check engine light comes on at "operating temp".
Use a test light to trace the 12v+ wire of the motor further back toward its power source. Depending on the car, the relay is probably supposed to have constant 12v+ on 1 wire (because cooling fans usually work even after the key is turned off).
Basically, if you applied only the + to the fan and it works, then the fan's ground wire is good and it goes straight to ground without "complicated wiring." That narrows the problem to "getting the 12v+ to the fan".
Go back to the relay, apply 12v+ to the wire that goes to the fan (but make sure you have the ect switch either JUMPED or engine hot enough that the new ECT switch is on. For Troubleshooting, I'd recommend jumped...just because that helps narrow down the problem. If the fan works with 12v+ applied at the relay AND the ECT sensor jumped, then heat the engine up to op temp and repeat the test but with the ECT sensor plugged in. If voltage isn't making it through the ECT sensor, then you probably found your problem.
If you apply 12v+ to the fan wire (at the relay) and the fan works with the ECT sensor JUMPED and plugged in, then proceed to troubleshoot the wiring of the relay.
Use a test light to trace the 12v+ wire of the motor further back toward its power source. Depending on the car, the relay is probably supposed to have constant 12v+ on 1 wire (because cooling fans usually work even after the key is turned off).
Basically, if you applied only the + to the fan and it works, then the fan's ground wire is good and it goes straight to ground without "complicated wiring." That narrows the problem to "getting the 12v+ to the fan".
Go back to the relay, apply 12v+ to the wire that goes to the fan (but make sure you have the ect switch either JUMPED or engine hot enough that the new ECT switch is on. For Troubleshooting, I'd recommend jumped...just because that helps narrow down the problem. If the fan works with 12v+ applied at the relay AND the ECT sensor jumped, then heat the engine up to op temp and repeat the test but with the ECT sensor plugged in. If voltage isn't making it through the ECT sensor, then you probably found your problem.
If you apply 12v+ to the fan wire (at the relay) and the fan works with the ECT sensor JUMPED and plugged in, then proceed to troubleshoot the wiring of the relay.
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