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So here's what I came up with so far my car still fires and dies immediatly so I check my fuel pressure And I'm only getting 10-15lbs would my main relay cause this or fuel pressure regulator I ripped one off a eg today it's not the same but I figured it couldn't hurt to try it (just doesn't bend at 90) I have my main relay out and the pins don't look cracked but they do look almost ?burnt? so should I try to solder them? Any one have an idea?
the main relays can be problomatic at times. the main relay also supplies power to the ecu.. you may try a new relay from autoparts... if it works you know your problem and can always return it and source a good used one. if its just the pump you can wire the pump directly to a toggle switch to help eliminate variables.
Bad wire, bad connection, corrosion... too much resistance...
If you are careful you could put a test wire between battery and pump with a fuse in it, and check pressure.. if good that would eliminate the pump.
If you are careful you could put a test wire between battery and pump with a fuse in it, and check pressure.. if good that would eliminate the pump.
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so i changed out my main relay and still the same s*** happens itll rev to 1000-1500 rpm then die.. would it be worth replacing the fuel pump really dont waant to waste the money if i dont need to. the car has sat for 2 years before i got ahold of it so i heard that fuel pumps can go bad after sitting for so long... any one else ever hear that?
Well, if your fuel pressure is still low, it's pretty much gotta be the pump. Will the car stay running longer if you give it a little gas (throttle cable, or gas pedal)?
Replacing the pump in these cars is not a fun task.
Replacing the pump in these cars is not a fun task.
If the fuel pressure regulator goes bad, it can either build too much pressure OR release too much gas which will lower the fuel pressure.
I forget the troubleshooting steps for the FPR, but you can:
remove the fuel input line at the engine and turn the key to prime. It should have a strong stream.
Also, removing the vacuum line from the fpr may result in an increase or decrease in fuel pressure...i cant remember which. If yours has a vacuum line on the FPR, remove it and see if you can rev a little higher.
i just replaced both the regulator and the main relay with no change in what the car does... the last thing for fuel is the pump which im gonna get tom. i also heard to check my ecu.. so when i turned the car it would blink red one time and then wouldnt happen again. no light would be on at all
the fliter looked fine when i pulled it off and the bottom of the tank has like no dirt in it.. i just order a walbro 255 fuel pump today so hopefully that makes my car run
The factory FPR is designed to maintain XXpsi fuel pressure when the factory fuel pump applies its XX flowrate. If you increase the flowrate without adjusting the Fuel Pressure (via an adjustable FPR), you will be running super rich. You will definitely have no problem getting fuel. Upgraded fuel pumps also require upgraded FPR's.
So here's what I came up with so far my car still fires and dies immediatly so I check my fuel pressure And I'm only getting 10-15lbs would my main relay cause this or fuel pressure regulator I ripped one off a eg today it's not the same but I figured it couldn't hurt to try it (just doesn't bend at 90) I have my main relay out and the pins don't look cracked but they do look almost ?burnt? so should I try to solder them? Any one have an idea?
If so, maybe the ign switch is not making a good connection to the ACC+ wire. After the starter starts spinning the engine, the ACC+ maintains voltage to the ECU, fuel pump, probably the relay (that may be turning off because of inconsistant ACC+ power??)??
I don't know the specific power sources for the ECU, distributor/spark, and fuel pump/injectors.
The ACC+ originates from the back of the ignition switch. It is supposed to be supplied with 12v+ when the key is in that position.
If you can get a wiring diagram, you just stated that starting fluid keeps it running...so you know this:
1)It IS sparking...so check the wiring diagram to find the power source of the ignition system...THEY ARE WORKING. Rule them out. (I would anyway...)
2) Use a voltage-meter to measure the voltage of the fuel pump's 12v+ wire WHILE someone else is cranking it. Measure this voltage using the CHASSIS as the ground, and then repeat the test using the fuel pump's NEG- ground wire as the ground. Should definitely get 12v+ during and after key-crank when using the chassis ground. If you don't have roughly the same voltage using the fuel pump's NEG- ground wire, then clean/re-ground the ground wire and try again.
3) Where are you checking fuel pressure? between pump and fuel filter? between fuel filter and injectors?? Between injectors and fpr?? or after FPR?? Easiest test for a weak pump is to pull the fuel filter off and prime the pump by turning on the key. If the stream is weak, then there is definitely an issue with the pump or the pumps wiring or fuel line.
The ACC+ originates from the back of the ignition switch. It is supposed to be supplied with 12v+ when the key is in that position.
If you can get a wiring diagram, you just stated that starting fluid keeps it running...so you know this:
1)It IS sparking...so check the wiring diagram to find the power source of the ignition system...THEY ARE WORKING. Rule them out. (I would anyway...)
2) Use a voltage-meter to measure the voltage of the fuel pump's 12v+ wire WHILE someone else is cranking it. Measure this voltage using the CHASSIS as the ground, and then repeat the test using the fuel pump's NEG- ground wire as the ground. Should definitely get 12v+ during and after key-crank when using the chassis ground. If you don't have roughly the same voltage using the fuel pump's NEG- ground wire, then clean/re-ground the ground wire and try again.
3) Where are you checking fuel pressure? between pump and fuel filter? between fuel filter and injectors?? Between injectors and fpr?? or after FPR?? Easiest test for a weak pump is to pull the fuel filter off and prime the pump by turning on the key. If the stream is weak, then there is definitely an issue with the pump or the pumps wiring or fuel line.


