Hi I’m just looking into first gen CRVs and I got a question for you guys.
This valve spring problem they have; is that eliminated by a head swap such as a b18?? I’m not looking for more power really (but it will be nice) I just want out right dependability
Any other advice on my shopping would be greatly appreciated
thanx

 

191k miles on my '00 crv and 252k miles on my '01 crv. No valve problem on either.

 

I’ve read the early ones need adjustments every 30k... I was hoping to avoid this
plus I’ll be buying used higher km and hope for no issues
just praying a head swap would be the end all solution
but I don't know

 

The problem is the Oem rec valve lash settings are to loose. Being an engine machinist I've found that setting the intake valve lash at .006 to .008 and the ex to .008 to .010 eliminates valve train noise. Hope this helps.

 

I've seen the problem on P8R heads and P75 heads, the key is to check your valve lash every 20k-30k, it's very easy to do. I to use the .006-.008 on intake, and .008 to .010 on the exhaust.

 

i believe the issue was more with the later b20. the b20z. and the issue was not valve springs. it was burnt exhaust valves due to a lack of clearance. what happens is the valve pounds into the seat, eventually lowering the clearance. once the clearance is completely gone, the valve hangs open. with no contact between the valve face and the seat, the valves heat can not be transferred and will burn.
the problem is not the head. the head is the exact same cast as an integra. as is all of the valvetrain (99 crv=98 integra).
i've deduced that the more frequent need for valve lash adjustment is probably due to fueling parameters. it's not a mechanical issue, i don't believe.
but that's all you need to do; check and adjust valve lash more frequently than an integra or civic. if you do that, you should be alright.

my 98 has 375,000km. i acquired it at about 340k. checked valve lash and it was fine. no adjustment needed. and i don't believe the PO had ever adjusted it. mind you, that is a 98. with the earlier b20b. not the z

 

This is right on the money. Cylinder #3 run hotter than the other 3 due to the routing of the coolant channel. My 1999 CRV had a cooked valve on cylinder #3. A value job, a couple new valves and new fuel injectors and and rings after 198,000 made it run great and still alive a 230,00.

 

Valve adjustments are easy to do, if you know how to follow instructions you can have this knocked out in an hour.
And the more you do it the easier it will become, just my two cents

 

The JDM B20 I got a few months ago needed 3-5 valves adjusted. it's honestly really easy to do and theres a good writeup on hondasuv.com for this engine if you wanna check that out and see if you think you would want to tackle it yourself.

You don't need much but I would also suggest getting a new valve cover gasket as well if you go to do this.

 

i didnt use a new gasket

 

yeah i didnt either but my new engine is nice and clean and I noticed after 2 weeks driving it pretty clean clear mobil 1 escaping from the corners. For the $20 it cost in a new gasket I got it. Think i got it from ebay.

 

I think i'll check mine later

 

don't forget to throw some hondabond in the corners above the cam seals.

 

I'm just about to hit 451,xxx kms on my V and it's all stock still. Plus putting on a B18 head it pointless, that's whats on it now. The B18 and B20 share the same head.

 

If you're changing out the head, B18C would be the way to go or B16