Recently I removed my vtec solenoid to replace gaskets. I took off the distributor first to make it easier. Removed solenoid and replaced gaskets. After I put everything back it turns over but will not start. Also I removed distributor cover and found a rusty screw and chunks of plastic in it. I've replaced the cap and rotor but still no go. Any suggestions??

 

Gaskets?????

Did you split the solenoid in two and replace that gasket also?

 

Yes

 

Could it b messed up from not unplugging battery first?

 

No its just that piston inside the solenoid has a oil oriffice located at a certain area that must be lined up with the corresponding oriffice on the top half of the solenoid before re-assembeling the soilenoid.

Check to make sure this is correct,
If not it is possible that the VTEC is locked,
And starting your car can be kinda hard when locked on high cam.

If this is not the issue,
You have something inside the distributor assy that is obviously compromised.
Or compromised wiring most likely created while doing the job.

 

Ok. So if the orifice isn't lined up it won't start? I'll look. Thanx

 

IIRC,
If you keep trying with some throttle input, it will try to start, and stumble around.

But never completely start up, hold idle, ect.

Just sounds cammed up from hell when it does try to start.

 

Inspect the little piston pushing it down gently into the lower half of the solenoid with your thumb, if it moves freely and doesnt hang up or feel notchy then your good.
Look at the upper half now and note where the orrifice (little hole) lies.
now simply spin the piston while its in place and clock the orrifice to its correct position you previously noted.

re assemble

re install

And make sure you didnt have a hondabond party and possible clog any of these important oil orrifices/galleys

 

It's good now. But still won't start. I pushed the piston and it springs back good. Lined the oriface up and re assembled.

 

Does it have something to do with removing distributor?

 

I unplugged all wires. What could I have compromised?

 

You need to check for spark and fuel in that order.

Also after cranking it over for 10-20 seconds does the CEL illuminate, if so what codes are present.

 

Ok. I will check that 2day. Btw, no spark, and I used a spark tester. Could I jus have to replace dizzy?

 

Well this is where you need to look back and remember what might have gone wrong when last worked on.
Why did you have the distributor off, and did it work prior to its removal?

Everything done to the distributor needs to be correct, parts, assy, being cautious of not breaking anything, ect.
Use another known good unit to test if you can

 

Does the fuel pump prime?

Does the CEL remain on steady when you turn the key from off to ON(II) or does it turn of after 2 seconds?

Does voltage reach the coil inside the distributor.

Remove the coil and ICM from the distributor. Resistance test the coil.

Have AutoZone test the ICM.

 

If it is stumbling and trying to start my guess is your firing order is off on the dizzy or you replaced the dizzy 180 degrees off, very easy to connect the wires in the wrong order. If its nots firing at all i would check the ground by your tranny, might have knocked it loose. And try the one on the thermo housing under the dizzy.

 

Good practice to mark where distributor is @ before you pull it- too late I know. Next time you get it fired up set timing and make a mark on top where bolt goes with a scredriver or something sharp this way it doesn't rub off. Scratch it across the aluminum above top bolt where cyl head sticks up

 

Check that you didn't flip the dizzy key 180* then test your main relay

 

Installing a distributor 180 degrees out should be impossible. The base of the thing is only keyed to go on one way.

 

Nothing is fool proof to a sufficiently talented fool...

It can be done, but you really have to work at it, the distributor will shake like hell when turning the engine over and it will often break one prong off the distributor drive.