I noticed when I had the distributor cap off on my '92 Accord that this part on the distributor (where my finger is pointing in the photo here) has a hairline type crack running through it: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps53a55535.jpg
I'm sure it'd be a good idea for me to replace this part if I can. What is this part called, and how might such a crack affect the performance/operation of the distributor? Thanks for any comment.

 

It looks like the top dead center sensor. I would get another distributor from the junkyard or you can just pull that part if you want. If you do, keep track of how close the shaft piece gets to it when it spins. It's really close but without touching.

 

Okay, thanks. For the time being, if I either leave it like that or take it out until I can get a replacement, would you say it could prevent the car from starting or running right?

 

Also, I noticed my new rotor has a hairline crack in it too. It's a crack only within one of the "webs" of the plastic part, and it doesn't extend from or to any of the metal of the rotor, just within the plastic. Here's a photo of my old rotor, where I am pointing with the pen to the location of where the crack is on my new rotor (new rotor still on distributor). The photo is rather dark but still viewable: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps70820934.jpg
I'd like an opinion as to whether it could be very likely either of these cracked parts could be preventing the car from starting (I get cranking but no start. It chugs once or twice like it might be ready to catch and start during cranking, but will not start). I checked spark from all plug wires with a spark tester, and get spark on all wires, but am not experienced enough to tell whether the spark is abnormal; seems kind of like an interrrupted sparking to me as I observe it while cranking. Any comment about this appreciated.

 

lol why are your pictures so damn dark dude ?

Sometimes you gotta just weigh it as that you already know you got a problem and in a worst case scenario what would happen if you were parked somewhere and the car didn't start how much would it cost you and how much of a hastle it would be to you.

Based on your issues with this distributor I would just get a used one from the junkyard. Is there not a junkyard by you ?

Yes, that sensor being bad would keep the car from starting however I gotta think it would throw a code for it.

 

lol you like my dark pictures eh?

Naw there's no junkyard in my town (small rural SE Alaska town). If I ever need a part I gotta send for it.
Sure I know I should probably replace that cracked sensor (or the whole dang dizzy I suppose) but meanwhile first I might go ahead and try checking for a code to see if the sensor throws a code. I don't have an OBD scanner. So I should just be able to jumper the two pins in the OBD service connector and turn the key on and see/watch/count the CEL blinking, right? I was reading that code #8 would be for TDC sensor.

 

if you're obd1 then yes you just use the paperclip method..if it's obd2 then u need a scanner

you could always go the ebay route

 

Okay, I did a check for codes. I'm OBD1 and used the paper clip method. I seemed to get alternating trouble codes 15 and 16.
I get one long blink followed by six short blinks, then I get one long blink followed by five short blinks; those two sequences over and over.
The OBD1 trouble diagnostic code information I have says 15 means "ignition output signal", and 16 means "fuel injectors".
Does that make any sense? Comments please?

 

I don't think I've ever seen someone post about a code 16. Can you post a video of the blinks just to be sure ?

 

http://s207.photobucket.com/albums/b...psc743b327.mp4

 

Today I had the auto parts store test the ignitor with their testing machine. Tested fine. I haven't noticed any loose/dirty/corroded connections. With the rotor cracked as I posted pictures, could that possibly throw a code 15 with ignition just turned to on? Here's the pictures again, one crack by the hub of the rotor where it pushes on to the distributor shaft (shown where pen is pointing): http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps783319c6.jpg
Other picture on the "web" of the rotor, small crack: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps8e36b64e.jpg
Any further comments appreciated! thanks

 

Update: Okay, I got the car to start. And I really didn't do anything that I know of to make it start. But it only started once, and now, trying to start it again, it is back to the same cranks and maybe will chug a time or two, but only cranks but will not start. And I no longer am getting any codes.
In regard to the code 16 (fuel injectors) I mentioned I was getting (in addition to the code 15), I figured the reason I was getting the code 16 was because last week when I was doing the spark test with the spark tester I decided to unplug the injector resistor connector while cranking the engine to prevent flooding during the cranking/testing, and so the code 16 was probably still stored in the ECM and hadn't cleared because I never actually started the car and got it running since the test.
In regard to the code 15 I was getting, I was informed that this code can mean either the ignitor is bad or the wiring to the ignitor from the ECM is shorted/open. That's why I thought I'd at least get the ignitor tested.
Here's the sequence of events since I last posted:
I went ahead and re-installed the ignitor after having it tested today (it tested good).
I decided to clear the codes stored in the ECM. So I disconnected the negative cable from the battery for 30 seconds or so, then reconnected. Then I checked for code(s) again, and there were none.
I decided for the h... of it, I'll try starting the car. And what do you know, it started right up, easily. I let it run a little while, then shut it off a while. Then tried starting it again after a while. But no, it was right back to the exact behavior of cranks, chugs maybe once, but then just cranks only and but will not start. I checked for any codes again, but get none.
Needless to say I'm baffled. It seems a good sign that the car did at least start (although just once), and that there is no code 15 (or any code) now.

 

Have you checked the main fuel pump relay yet.? Something about the heat stops it from starting so if it is cloudy it may start and soon as the car warms up it dies. if the windows are up and it is sunny out the heat rays from the sun is enough heat to keep it from starting. I have one in my cellar that is good for one start then it wont work until it sits for a few days in the dark cold cellar. One, even the smallest unseen hair line crack will spread and cause them not to work. Pull it and test right then and there, dont wait to test after you pull it. It could be a coincidence that after you pulled the dizzy and put it in that it started.
If the relays test good, then check all wires around the dizzy because it is possible that in your pulling of the rotor you caused a short in one of the wires. All it takes is a slight movement to make a connection, and car starts. In the movements of the engine could pull a wire just enough to break the connection. A multi meter and test light and you can test every wire in the area. Make sure to move the wires a bit when you are testing to see if there is in fact a break inside the sheeting that you cant see.
Check for spark again. What are you using, basically anything will work including a screwdriver inside the boot laying close to a ground. Look to see what color the spark is.
Check the coil, disconnect the 4 pin connector going to the coil. Key off
primary resistance between terminal A and C 0.6- 0.8 ohms.
Secondary resistance, between term A and secondary term(where coil spark wire comes out) 14.0k- 22.0k ohms
Resistance between terms B and D 2.1k- 2.3k ohms
If yours doesnt show the letters on the plug, looking at the male or female clip that holds the connectors together straight up, top line {(A) (C)} bottom two {(B) (D)}
See what you get with these. Hopefully you get 'er started..

 

Yes, long story, but the main relay has been ruled out. It is working.
I was using this spark tester to test the spark: http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...ps478dec52.jpg With the tester I checked for spark output from all four spark plug wires while an assistant cranked the car. I saw spark from each, hard for me to describe the exact color or intensity (I recall it looked bluish/whitish I think) but nonetheless I did see spark. Not sure if I had the tester gapped open as far as you're supposed to, but I gapped it to the specified gap of my spark plugs which is .044. But perhaps I should have set the gap on that tester maybe an inch or so, to try to see if it was a good strong intense spark? I'm really wondering about this.
I suppose it's possible that the coil is producing a weak spark, but was able to produce a strong enough spark to start the car (which it did) just a day or so ago, that one time? If you think so, I can/will go ahead and try to check the resistance of the coil per the instructions/specifications you provided. Thanks. any further comments appreciated.
For additional clarification, my crank but no-start behavior description: Car cranks and feels like it sort of "catches" once in a while, but never actually gets running. What I mean by "sort of catches" is for a few brief moments (a second or two) it gets the vroom-type starting sound of pistons being fired and compression happening, sounds like it is starting up, usually during the first initial cranks, then that stops/ends and it just cranks. As though briefly it is getting the right combination of spark and fuel at the proper timing, but that combination doesn't continue, it seems to get cut off. That's the way it acts/seems. The other day it actually started right up one time, easily, for some mysterious reason, but it does not want to start again.
I've had the ignitor (ICM) checked on the machine at the auto parts store, and it checked out fine, and my check engine and indicator lights are acting normally when I turn the key on and/or to start, and I'm not getting any codes from the ECM. I can hear the proper clicks from my main relay as I turn the key to on/start and also hear the it run the fuel pump for a few seconds while the check engine light illuminates and then goes off. As a basic test to see if fuel delivery may be causing the issue instead of ignition, I sprayed starting fluid into the air intake of throttle body while cranking, and that doesn't change the no-start behavior either.

 

K cool, I meant to say spray a little starting fluid, carb cleaner or ether into the the throttle body or even into the air tube. I forgot, that tells us it is not a gas issue. Not going to be a leaking injector(s) or faulty pressure regulator. Because it started I will rule out incorrect gap plugs. Definitely check the coil
Has to be one of three stopping it, fuel, spark and air.
Just for the hell of it if it has the stock air filter housing take the box out and check to make sure no over sized rat or baby bear hasnt taken up residency. I have seen it before, rats or other animals have built nests in there and then leave but the car no longer starts from no air.
Will keep thinking to see what else I can come up with. I want to hear you say "She started and is now driving better then a brand new toyota"

 

So, the reason I check the coil resistance is up to specifications is to determine if it might be putting out weak/insufficient spark? Just asking so I can understand? We can rule out varmints living in my stock air cleaner housing. I disconnected the air tube from the housing (lid of course removed and filter exposed) when I sprayed the starting fluid into it. It gets plenty of air. I'll mention once again, the car started easily once just a day or so ago, and I hadn't done anything to it; it just decided to start/run. But since then, though, after that one time, it doesn't want to start again and just does the cranking but no-start behavior as I described. I'll check the coil next... stay tuned.

 

When it does the no starting behavior, that's when you need to test it for spark and fuel. Don't wait for any amount of time. I'd love to see a video of it starting and then you turning it off and then you trying to start it again. If you can post a video of that that might help.

If it was me I woulda replaced the distributor a long time ago, just my opinion.

 

I can pretty much count on the no-starting behavior each and every time. Seems the time it started up once for me the other day was just some kind of "fluke". Probably wasn't really a fluke but seems that way because it don't wanna start again since that time, so far. If you really think it could help, sure I can try getting a video recording of it starting (if it cooperates, which I doubt), then me trying to start again.
I realize with that crack in the sensor I've mentioned and posted picture of in the distributor, that replacing the dizzy should be done, even if that crack isn't the actual cause of my no-start behavior. If the crack is not problematic yet, then surely it'll be sooner or later I suppose. If I was close to being certain the dizzy is the source of my current problem here, I'd have just replaced it by now too, but seems like it's important to try to rule out every other possibility first. You think it's the dizzy causing my problem? You stated yourself, in regard to the cracked sensor, that you thought if that sensor was bad it would throw a code, but there's no such code being thrown. I'll replace the dizzy right away if that'll solve my problem; otherwise I'll either do it soon enough or maybe even go the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" route with it.

 

I took the coil out and checked resistance readouts on multimeter. I get nothing between B and D. Guess I'll see about getting a new coil. I'll probably send away for one, Ebay probably, something like that. So I won't get it for a week or so, so won't know for sure until then whether a new coil solves my issue. But wouldn't you think it definitely should? Thanks!

 

Or you can get another distributor.