Hey guys and girl! I recently came across a really sweet 96 spec b18c ITR long block. I have a few things I wanna do to the motor. My main goal is to reach between 200 - 210hp at the wheels. My main focus is a reliable and fun motor. I am pretty much decided to go with a chipped p-28 ecu with rywire harness, this being my first build I wanna avoid as much headaches as possible. Everything on the long block is stock: cams, piston, intake manifold, injectors, and so on. The only things that it is not stock are the skunk 2 70mm throttle body and an AEM fuel regulator. My question to y'all is what do you guys think I should replace, change or add to it to reach my goal? Thank you guys and any idea thought and criticism will be gradely appreciated... By the way all this is going into a 93 EH2

 

How deep are your pockets? Here's my bolt on build and replicated products could easily bring cost down. I chose to support the innovator not the imitator.

98+ JDM ITR swap internally stock oil pan to valve cover, never opened!
Toda 4-2-1 header
Custom Vibrant 3" header back exhaust
Spoon N1 muffler
Comptech Icebox 3" intake
70MM throttle body and manifold port matched
ID1000cc injectors @ 65PSI base pressure
Car has AC and power steering!

197.6 WHP @ 8100RPM
136.49 FT LBS @ 6250RPM
Tuned by John Vega (phearable.net)

Cams would have easily gotten me to 210WHP

 

Those are some great number! Well as of right now, I'm counting on 3 stacks to build the motor. What kind of cams would you recommend? I was thinking of skunk 2 stage 2 cams. How's the header and exhaust? How's the clearance with the headers to the ground?

 

Ground clearance is incredible, my oil pan sits lower than my exhaust. For off the shelf cams Skunk2 Tuner 2 and Jun Spec 3 would perform well with stock compression. The other option would be cams from DDTech which can be custom tailored to your setup.

 

Oh wow that's incredible! Ill see if I can find one for a good price. I know toda makes great performance parts, if not something similar. I had mine eyes set on J's Racing SPL stainless steel headers, but still not 100% sure. I see now I don't need to go over the top with mods in order to make decent power. I was thinking of getting the spoon head gasket since, I was planning on replacing all my gasket and seals before doing the swap, but I'll probably be leaving must of my internals stock so, I'll go with OEM instead.... At least until its time to rebuild the motor, but that's a long time from now.

 

If you are going to replace gaskets and such I would recommend something like the Spoon or Mugen head gasket. You will only benefit from the extra compression increase.

 

Had any experice with any? Also I'm curious on what ecu are you running? If you don't mind me asking, of course. Only reason I'm going with a chipped P-28 is because they're easy to come by and not so expensive, I have thought of upgrading at one point... Something like S300.

 

I'm using the Hondata S300

 

Oh really!? How is it? Is it worth it?

 

just get chrome pro.. 200$ vs 500+ $ , in the end they both do the same thing.
also, you dont need to go full 3" exhaust or up to 1000cc injectors to reach those numbers.. matter of fact, that 3 inch is hurting you, not helping.. i know of stock type r setups with stock manifolds hitting 190+whp. just saying..its not how much a part costs or what its name is, its how they are put together.

 

If I could slap you over the Internet I would for being so damn stupid. You go do a bolt on ITR and tell me if you hit 200whp on a Dynojet with a 2.5" exhaust. I'd love to see it because it hasn't been done yet.

 

just no.

 

Now thats a dd build

 

i HAVE MADE 200 ON A CRUSH BEND LOL, @SOLIS 153 HE MADE 201 ON SAME SIZE EXHAUST.. A HANDFUL OF OTHER HAVE AS WELL LOL..

 

You're saying there's really no need to go 3" exhaust?

 

There is no "need" so to speak. 2.5" exhaust will be fine. I'm sure if a 2.5" vs. 3" exhaust dyno graph was overlaid they would be slightly better (1-4whp) in different areas.

 

What about headers? I know there's a ton of headers out there. I would love to rock something like toda, but man they're expensive! I was thinking of going with the j's racing, they're a little less expensive and I have read really good things from it. Any other headers you guys think I should look into? Do you guy have any experience with the j's racing, or know of some that has? Thanks again by the way!

 

ID1000's and 3 inch header back on a virtually stock Motor with bolt-ons?

 

Congrats on the good deal on the swap.

I put down ~198whp on my 96-spec stock ITR motor, tuned by Turbogixxer (see video in signature).
Dyno number is not that important, but for the record he tuned many more ITR setups on that same dyno and they all put down the typical numbers (175-185whp). You can hear Kenny's surprise in the video.

This was with running out of fuel in the upper 7k rpm. I am now I am addressing that (RDX injectors and Fuel Pump), so I can come back hoping to break the 200whp.

Mods that I can recall right now:

- 3" SRI with BPi Velocity Stack and K&N Filter
- RMF Narrow replica header, custom plate welded, ceramic coated (this is an inexpensive and good header, around ~300) - pics
- Apex'I WS2 Noir exhaust (2.5" - cut off tip to avoid unwanted attention)
- Vibrant HighFlow metal core cat (didn't need for emissions, but wanted the car super quiet)
- BuddyClub CamGears
- Chipped P28 ECU

Again, try to find a user or new RMF Narrow replica header.

It's an excellent unit and you can likely find it for 200-300 with patience.

Good luck!

 

Yes you read correctly.

If a car makes the most power open header then why is it so hard for people to believe, after all of these years, that everything after the collector is a restriction? You lose power even with a 3" exhaust but maintain the noise to a reasonable level and won't get asphyxiated, like you would open header.

Too large of an injector is really a thing of the past. The Bosch injectors perform extremely well and are very fast. Basically you can (it has been already been done) run ID2000's, yes 2000cc injectors on a completely stock non VTEC 140HP motor and idle without any issues.

 

OOh , so im stupid because thermodynamics proves me to be correct? If i could throw my laptop through my broadband at your arrogance i would. Ive watched standard intake header exhaust itrs on chrome run 190-200whp. none of which had 3'' exhaust. Thermodynamics does not support your" I havent seen it so it must be true" logic. I guess your reference for "openheader" experience lends such knowledge to suggest thats even relative to a full 3'' exhaust. smh, and Im "so damn stupid"?.. Im not going to argue with you as this is stupid in the first place, 3'' exhaust is not even necessary for these displacements. Scavenging and creating velocity is what is most important, and 3'' does not allow velocity optimization to occur. Show me back to back runs of a 2.5'' vs 3'' and show me im not correct. I guarantee you, the 3'' is causing a loss in low end and mid range. Possible gains in the upper rpms, but lets face it, who the hell is going to drive 6500-8500 rpm everyday? stupid reason to gain a couple HP in the wrong places.

http://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how...pipe-diameter/

this is pretty simple, easy to look at chart. thanks



wow all those mods you have and you made 6 hp more then my buddies itr.. his mods

s2 intake mani. with matching 70mm TB
no pipe, just 3'' k/n right off TB
stock injectors
stock ITR manifold

gasp.. and 60mm exhaust piping..

 

Keep telling yourself that and I'll keep flying past you laughing. You can try to talk flow and thermodynamics all day long, but I've literally done years of research before my decision to build a 3" exhaust. I went from a 2.36" to 3" and didn't notice a single loss even without tuning. If you think velocity is a problem then stand behind my car at a mere 1500RPM and feel the velocity that the exhaust gasses are coming out at.

Go get a wideband and watch a 2.5" vs 3" without tuning. Leaner over the whole curve with the 3" which indicates more airflow and engines are air pumps. Go add more fuel and you have more power. You are just making yourself look like an idiot rambling on with someone with years of experience and a proven setup.

That and how you praise Chrome. Does it work? Yeah. Is just about every other ECU tuning software better? I think we could all agree on that. The Hondata S300 has features and capabilities that Chrome can't deliver. Can you change your tune and parameters for launch control on the fly at the track with Chrome? You can with the S300. How about datalog and monitor important sensors real time with simply plugging in a netbook or laptop? You can with the S300. It sells itself when used and installed they are $450-500.

 

you are completely clueless on scavenging effects an velocity in regards to thermodynamics. you do not have the RPM or the VOLUME to effectively use a 3'' exhaust on a 1797cc NA engine. Chrome was said as a means for those on a budget. its effectiveness is worth the cash. The s300 has better support, sure, but overall, if your only looking at a 200whp car, go chrome.. anything bigger, go s300.

p.s. engines are more then an airpump. perhaps if your trying to explain how compression works to middle schoolers, sure... smh

 

http://www.mk5cortinaestate.co.uk/calculator5.php

here is an even simpler way to get exhaust piping size. All the math has been calculated for you as just a round about reference.

 

BTW your boy, made 190.86WHP without AC or PS. I made 197.6WHP with both of those and if you don't believe that power steering takes away 5WHP go try it on a dyno for yourself. Let's not forget we are talking horsepower to the wheels right? Do you realize how much heavier an ITR brake rotor is compared to a Civic Si? Is that not rotating mass along with my wheel and tire combo which is 31LBS a piece?

It is even more frustrating that they moved this thread from the All Motor forum to the ITR forum. Here things are posted where cars are more or less created equal because it's the same chassis which is different from the rest. Now you come in here with your boys setup, saying my boy did this and that. I could care less what your buddy did.

I was helping Jmx305 make a proper setup for his goals and all you, DazeMS do is try to say my setup doesn't work. At 3300RPM I made 75WHP like your buddies. At 5000RPM I made 112WHP basically just like he did. At 5900 I made 150WHP, again very very close. At 7300 I made 188WHP where as he made 170WHP... now we are talking 18WHP difference. Is it possible I would have more power than him with a 60MM exhaust down low? Maybe but even on a circuit the car is generally going to stay from 6000RPM+ but as far as I'm concerned this is just showing that down low the exhaust size isn't very important but it greatly benefits in the mid to upper end where the smaller pipe is choking it out. Which just further backs that everything after the collector is a restriction.