I have a broken wheel stud and I bought a Hubpuller to pull it out more so I can put a new stud in. However tomorrow I am going to go to the junkyard and test it on one of those cars so I don't **** up my own practicing. What is the best way to get the axel nut off? I know you have to sort of bend out the part that is bent in to keep it from slipping, what tool should I use for that. How hard is it to get off the axel nut, I know its like 134ft-lbs of torque on there, would my 18'' breaker bar get it off, or will i need something to slip over the end of it?


[Modified by FourthGenHatch, 8:20 PM 10/21/2002]

 

I used an 18 inch breaker bar with a longer piece of pipe slipped over the end. After prying the tabs out I used the breaker bar and the nut came off without too much trouble. A breaker bar and pipe should be fine.

 

The brake dust shield can be notched in a certain area ( you have to take off the caliper) where it gives you space to punch the wheel stud out and hammer a new on back in. This works on EF's only. Just a thought. If you take the whole hub off, when you put it back on, you risk the chance of messing up your wheel bearing. A bad wheel bearing in not a good thing.

 

I did it this way, since i was by myself.
1. I got the club steering wheel lock, and put it so that it pushed the brakes down.
2. un-noched the bolt
3. placed the socket on the 18" breaker bar and then proceeded to slip a 10' electricle conduit pipe over it and gently pushed down.
4. jumped on the damn pipe untill it finally came loose

 

Stick a screwdriver in between the rotor, and let it turn against the caliper. That will prevent the rotor from turning.

 

I too had to apply the brakes to keep the wheel from spinning, I broke 2 sockets doing it, luckily they were craftsman. Mine was a special case though, whoever put them on did it with an impact gun I'm guessing and it crushed that spot where you punch in.

 

that nut loosen spray helps......
i sprayed it on the night before and the next day i used a crow bar in between the studs to hold it in place and breaker bar and a pipe....

 

take the center cap off from your wheel, lower your car, and pull the e brake, that way nothing will spin, release the tabs with a screwdriver(atleast thats what i did), a breaker is all it should take, and you hopping on the other end, 18"=1.5ft times that by 150 lbs(your weight) = 225 ft-lb, should not be a problem, now if its rusted on, then you have a prob., gotta get creative hehehe

 

you should be able to replace the stud without taking off your piece.you can get a new stud from napa or where ever and you can notch off a corner or 2 of the stud at the top and you should be able to turn the rotor to the stripped one and knock out the old one and the new should go in with minimal work.I had to do this on my old EG but it should work on an EF too.I know it is not the best explanation but it may help.

 

Do this, works . You don't need to unsteak the nut, just turn it and it will turn out the steak in the nut. It's easy.

 

uh
i used my impact socket. it didnt even seem very tight. and i used an air chisel to get that notch out and put it back.

 

keep the car on the ground parking break I use a torque wrench and a 1.25" socket(first you have to bend the metal retainer peice back out (flat head screwdriver) it is there just to stop the nut from getting loose and falling off. get the socket to where you will be pushing down (more force) if it is real tight stand on the wrench or breaker bar, can also do all of this in jacked up on stands , but have someone holding their foot on the brakes., then follow the instruction for pulling the hub back, I just borrow a tool from oreilly's that catches the bar for the hub and has a screw bolt pushing up on the bolt that is holding the hub down.(puller) I found that the adjustable sucked but the one that is not could slip on there alot better and actually hold on to push the bolt. just follow the helm or whatever manual, good luck!


[Modified by RaVeN, 5:13 AM 10/23/2002]

 

Why should I notch out my stud and all that crap when I have the tool. I shouldn't hurt the bearing if I have the tool, plus I will be practicing on these junkers first so I get a good idea.

As for loosening it on my car I have no centercaps so it wouldn't be a problem, but maybe on these junkers htey don't have wheels. But I will figure it out.

 

Ditto this is exactly what I did.
I have a pipe u can use that will work perfectly around a 18" breaker bar 4th gen hatch, I would be happy to help you.
I'll Im you to try to get in touch.

 

make sure you take off the lock on the nut it should be the part that looks like its been hammered it. don't want to stress nuts over the thing not comming off becuase you forgot to unlock just my past experience letting you know so you save a trip to 7 11 for some advil . also the nut size is 32mm i belive correct me if im wrong please
peace

 

mine were REALLY tight. a friend of mine who is huge couldn't get them off, so he tried his impact wrench, and that didn't break it loose either. i ended up taking it to a shop that just broke them loose using... a more powerful(?) impact wrench. i'm sorry but i don't know anything about compressed air power tools. perhaps my friends' air compressor wasn't able to compress air to a pressure necessary to exert the required torque. i'm off topic now.. the point is, the spindle/hub nuts were tight.

and i use a 1.25" socket. i'm not sure what that is in mm, but i vaguely remember trying both metric and standand, and keeping the standard socket because it fit a little better.



[Modified by carsaregood, 9:57 AM 10/22/2002]

 

yeah, i used a 1.25" too, i think cause sears over here didn't have the 32mm though,

 

actually i took the center cap off my wheel and broke it w/ the wheel on than jacked the car up, took off the wheel and it came right off no problems. u may be able to use a crobar to twist the hub the other way while the u try and break the nut but u risk screwing up the threads on the lugs


[Modified by 88hondahatch, 9:04 AM 10/23/2002]

 

i use Gunk liquid Wrrench or Walter Bolt out,
then use the impact with 120 psi,
bolt came out in a 15 to 20 secondes range !"

 

Yes there are higher pressure pumps and tanks, I tried to use my freinds 110lb but it was not enough, eventually I used the pipe over the 18" breaker bar, 4feet of leverage was perfect, i cracked that baby in about 30 seconds.