Im think of adding some reliable power to my accord. Im not looking for a race car, or high power. Just simple, reliable everyday drive power.

I dont want to go Turbo, im in a desert (and every one and there mom has a turbo honda). Cant fit a supercharger, and I dident want to do a swap (its hard to find a motor that was hooked to the same auto thats in my wagon).

So I think a simple N/A build will do the trick, let me know if theres anything I missed or should do differently.

End goal is about 250WHP/250FPT.

Stage 1
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
High flow fuel pump
High flow fuel filter

Stage 2
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
High flow fuel rail
High flow injectors

Stage 3
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
Stage 2 cam
Tune

Stage 4
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
CNC heads
Larger valves
Spings & rockers

Stage 5
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
Stronger Head bolts
Head gasket

Stage 6
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
12.1 Pistons
Balance crank shaft
Tune

Stage 7
=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=+=
3 Core radiator
Bigger oil cooler
Bigger Transmission cooler

 

You're goal of 250whp out of an N/A F22B1 is a tough one. Not too mention very expensive and time consuming.

What are the goals for this car, daily street use, street and strip or just race?

Saying a stage 2 cam doesn't mean much these days. I have installed stage 2 cams in engines before that barely required much of a tune. You need to look more into what the car will be used for and what RPM range the engine will be spending most of it's time running. Then you can find a cam that runs from **** RPM to **** RPM with peak power @ **** RPM. Then you will also need compression to match this range along with an intake, valve train and exhaust that will support it.

Have you considered an intake manifold or exhaust in order to allow your engine to breath better?

If you are breaking this build into stages due to budget restraints. Your best bet would be to buy all of your parts in stages and install them all at once. That way you won't have to tune every time you change a component. The way you have these parts listed you would have to tune after quite a few of your stages.

Stage 2 - tune required
Stage 3 - tune required
Stage 4 - tune required
Stage 6 - tune required

Your list is a good start but it's lacking a lot of detail.

 

What exactly do you mean by 'drive power'?
Well you are going to handicap youself. The Accord transmissions are geared for cruising economy. As for 'same' the transmissions used in the same era Ody and Prelude are dimensionally the same, but with lower gear ratios for better acceleration. The Ody for weight, the Prelude for acceleration coupled to the H22.
So you want to 'simply add' 105HP to the 145HP B1?
There is a reason why so many boost a F22 or swap to an H series, it is the easiest way to make power. With an EX putting a VTEC H22 is a couple of wire modifications, ECU, and a power steering bracket. Seems a lot simpler than the this list...
Does nothing but lose resolution at lower pulse rates and will cause fueling issues on an otherwise stock system.
What the hell is a 'stage 2' cam? I had someone tell me they had a stage 3 clutch in their Civic.
Gran Turismo(game) does not use real world nomenclature or teminology, so 'stage #' means nothing.
Meh, I like the B1, but the money spent on upping the power would be best spent on a H22 VTEC engine swap. Bam, 50HP added right there.
Why is the cylinder head coming off so much? Just do the head work, head gasket, bolts, and general engine rebuild at once.
12:1-1 compression on a 'simple' street car? So where are you going to fuel up?
These things should be done prior to the above listed modifications.
If you are keeping the AT and want better acceleration ditch the Accord transmission and replace it with one from an Odyssey which has a lower final drive ratio. If the powerband of the engine is changed you will also have to look at a stall torque converter to allow the engine to enter its powerband.

Before any of these modifications are to be done, I would highly recommend installing a oil temp gauge for the transmission. If that fluid starts getting past 200*F you will be cooking the internals.

 

Just a fun drive through the mountains is enough to raise the trans temp to 220. A cooler is a must.

 

What im understanding is it's better to just drop a H22 with an odys tranny, if im going to keep it an auto?
Drive power, what I mean is just basically more usable everyday power (passing/acc).
Stage 2 cam, as in the next step up in profile from oem spec.
As for air flow, i duno, im on the fence when it comes to that. I want something thats not going to be low and muffled like the typical after market sound. Im looking for one thats more inline to sound normal at everyday driving.
12.1, fuel is right next door to me 100, and 112 octain, but thats not practical, and I cant seem to find 10.1.

If I drop a H22, dont I have to find one that had an auto hooked to it? I know if you drop a motor with its ecu from an auto to one thats manual you have to trick the ecu to think its in neutral to start.

The auto out of an odys, will I have to change the half shafts?

 

The lower FD in the Ody trans would get the H22 into its powerband quicker. An H22 coupled to the Accord transmission is a dog MT or AT. The VTEC Prelude does not have an AT option, but I think the lesser non VTEC models did come with a AT.
You may just try switching to the Ody trans first. When the AT in the '95 EX took a dump I just replaced it with an AT from a '95 Ody. Acceleration is much better off the line and when passing the B1 gets into its power band quicker. But cruising rpms will be a few hundred higher.
Which means what exactly? Do you have lift/duration/LSA etc specs?
I'm an RS-R fanboi. At idle it's quieter than stock and even at WOT it does not get that loud.
I don't think the VTEC H22 came with an AT but there was a lesser Prelude S model which did. IIRC this unit has more aggressive gearing for acceleration.
No. Transmisions between the H and F engines are dimensionally the same.
The only time you change axles is when going from AT to MT on the left side where the MT uses an intermediate shaft.
The axles stay with the car type;
have an Prelude use Prelude axles
have an Accord use Accord axles.

 

k, I think ill go with the trans swap first. 97 accord, look for a 97 odys tranny? How many rpm's are we talking about? at 70mph im doing 2750rpm.

 

Depending on tire size, at 70 you would probably be doing around 3200. The final drive is lower in the Odyssey as well as the 4th gear. But your results may vary.

 

Excuse my ignorance, lower finale gear, so if mine is a 4.27 final gear a lower would be as an example 4.55? Higher number = better towing, fast acceleration, crappyer gas mileage?

 

I have a 97 accord lx and I'm looking to replace the the f22b2 engine and auto transmission. I have a budget of 2500 and would like to know if there's a swap I can do to get better acceleration and stay within budget.

 

The higher the number, the "lower" the gear. Gas mileage depends on a lot of things, but mostly on how you drive it. A lower gear means the motor is turning over more times per minute, but is not working as hard. So results will vary.

 

I'm interested to know, how do you "tune" a car, dyno? Does that cost a lot and can't it be done by yourself?

I also have a accord wagon f22a1, would like to know how easy it would be to make these na upgrades. And if would be worth it and cost effective.

 

You can tune on a dyno, a track & the street. It can cost anywhere from $500-$1500+ depending on where you go and what tuning hardware you purchase.

Yes you can do it yourself. However, in the end, it would most likely cost you more than just having someone who knows what they are doing, do it for you.

Whether it's worth it or not is really up to you and your budget.

What are your goals and budget? Chasing hp can get expensive!

 

With the Ody trans in the '95EX the tach reads ~3K. It was ~2700.

Mileage does not seem to be affected. It's about the same. Although the FD is lower the car is much easier to accelerate and simply roll into the throttle. Before I recall there being more downshifting and WOT blasts. Now there is not as much unless anger kicks in, or the need to be ricer and make noise like a jackass with the CAI.