I bought this 91 EF MPFI all stock, but the car just cranks and doesn't start.

- Battery is really good - fully charged. Car primes fuel, ign and cranks all the time, just will not fire all the way.

- Fuel pump priming - I can hear it consistenly for 2-3 seconds.
- Spark plugs has spark (bright white color). Brand new plugs. I cleaned the inside of the dizzy contacts.
- Check the fuse#2 and the hood fuse...all good.
- Valve cover, transmission & thermostat ground all good. I took them out and reconnect to make sure.

-Sprayed quick start fluid on the intake - does not start
- Clean injectors and sprayed some gas inside the fuel injector holes
- Tested sparks and it smells gas from there.

Can I check or test something else? It's possible it might be the main fuel relay, but I sprayed some gas inside the fuel injector chamber - so it should at least start right?

Did the PO maybe didn't have the right wire plugs in the right order?

I will appreciate any inputs. Thanks

 

I did check the rubber stopper from the clutch pedal assembly btw and it looks good too.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/b20vtec-will-not-crank-3124974/

 

You have spark, fuel,and air but you also need compression. You might want to check the compression especialy if you haven't run this engine yet.

To check if you're getting fuel pressure you can loosen the "service bolt" on the fuel filter, then turn the ignion on (dont crank it though) fuel should spray out (use rags to absorb the gas). that will tell you if your getting fuel to the fuel rail.

You say the battery is good, Did you load test it? I was fooled by a dead battery that had a good surface charge.

 

This^ is clearly an excellent suggestion, but first check the mechanical timing. The timing belt may have skipped a tooth or two.

 

Thanks. I was thinking about the compression check and timing might skipped a tooth as well.

But I was hoping this will be easy fix. Car has about 194k or so. The PO told me that valve seal needs replaced(as per mechanic). He even gave me 2 sets of valve seals to me.

I'm also contemplating if it's worthwhile the effort to revive a little tired engine at this point. Sure I can do a rebuild, but I don't know if it's cost efficient vs getting a newer Z6 or something similar.

But I've heard so many good things about the D16A6 and wants to preserve it as much as I could.

 

Start by checking the mechanical timing. If it's out of time and there's no engine damage, then the fix is straightforward.

Does the engine burn a lot of oil?

 

ok will try that. Thanks for the diagram.

I took a video when I was trying to start it and I think the engine cranks just will not turn over. Start at 16seconds mark.



When I tried to start it, the exhaust tip will smell like unburned gas. Does it say something? Meaning injectors spraying properly just the spark plugs not firing?

I actually check just spark plug no#1 and it has bright spark all the time. So I didn't check the rest, I thought that will be enough to at least fire up a hiccup.

I've had EG before and it was the dizzy.

Also, when I pour some gas directly into the injector hole, if there is spark, it should fire for a moment wouldn't it?

 

 

Ok...will check for timing and I think I have a compression tool tester at the garage.

tnx

 

So if the plugs have good spark, can we say that the distributor is good?

Meaning to say if all 4 spark plugs has good spark bright white --does it mean I can be sure that the dizzy is good and no other testing is required?

 

YES

 

oki doki tnx

 

Well it's the distributor! Wire to Cylinder#1 was not plug tight and wobbly. I made sure it's tight and fit. Also the rotor doesn't have the screw on it, so it's not circling with the shaft.

Put some start fluid in the intake, noticed some sputtering and tried about 6-7 times and it finally start all the way!

During start up, it revs up to 2.7 to 3k. So I have to fix the idle thing, but so far I have start it a bunch of times, reverse and drive it a little bit and it's always a one click start now.

I love my EF..haha...this is my first one and I can't wait to have it road ready as DD.

Thanks for all the input guys...you're the best!

 

That would do it, lol, I scored an awesome deal because of that bloody screw that should be the most work you'll have to put into it. I had that same sputter, turned out that one of my plug wires was bad in addition to the screw missing...didn't see if you had already replaced wires or not, as far as the idle, I dunno...

 

^ yup exactly the same boat. Bolt missing in the rotor and the #1 wire link was not properly seated.

I'm curious as to what happened here. I know at one point this dizzy was replaced by PO, as the internals are very clean. They probably didn't check it thoroughly.

 

i had this screw cost me a tow , mech, etc etc

now, i put scotch tape over it

ridiculous really