So I'm reading a lot of opinions
Some sites say do something like 350/500 etc more firmer in rears
And in ht ppl say do something like 500/450-350

My goals is the cars gonna be dd
It'll be lowered to probably 1 finger gap from fender to tire with 195-50-15 or 195-40/45-15

I'm thinking 450/350 for my goals but I'm lost on which would be better
More firmer springs in front and less in rears or vice versa
Also what inch springs should I order for my eibach springs?
7" ?8"? All around or maybe a difference in inches between front springs and rear springs?

And last if anyone knows a cheaper place to order the gc's than like 360 from gc.com please let me know(must accept custom spring orders)
Or have a coupon for gc. Com

Will be ordering a set within the next few da's or whenever these questions get answered

 

Now I'm not a pro, but usually the higher rated springs go in the front due to that being the heavier end of the car. You don't want your headers hitting the ground on a bump or your UCA's hitting. That's my thinking.

 

Mostly erroneous thinking.

I repeat this so many times in these threads. Firmer/stiffer/higher spring rates in rear=oversteer. Firmer/stiffer /higher spring rates in front=understeer. This is an oversimplified explanation. If you don't know how to drive in a car that oversters, or even know what oversteer means then keep the rates higher in front.

 

But it's also true that if you are just trying to lower the car and not change the handling characteristics, you need stiffer rates in front for exactly the reasons datbumper gave. Remember that stock rates are about 2x stiffer in front than rear. Primarily this is to even out the f/r ride frequencies. Look at a stock Integra, which has 212/117 and the ride frequency is still slightly higher in rear. For comfort the ideal setup would be to try to keep similar ride frequencies front/rear and to dial in oversteer with a stiffer rear sway bar.

I think for OP the spring rates are probably close. Could maybe get away with a slightly softer spring rear if he wanted a softer ride.

 

450 F 450 R

Equal rates are often overlooked.

If it's not a race car don't bother with the high rates in the rear. You can add a swaybar later and not sacrifice comfort if you really want the rotation.

 

also realize that you can switch the springs front to rear. So if you get slightly stiffer springs in the rear now, you can always switch them later for different handling characteristics.

If you have to ask what rates to run, then run stiffer in front for now..

 

Go with what you have planned, IMO. The 450f/350r will be more than adequate for any street driving. If you are at all worried about ride comfort, maybe go to 300r.

As for the free length, I'd say 7" for the 450 springs and 8" for the 350-300 springs.

Check the Honda-Tech sponsors for deals. But honestly, I've always ordered directly through Ground-Control(minus my last order which I got the GC top mounts from my sponsor) and have never had an issue. Their prices, for coming from the direct company, are not bad at all when you look at the other distributors prices. At least you know you will be getting the right product when ordering through them. Some of the distributors I've seen seem a little iffy. Just IMO.

 

450f/350r are my current GC rates. I say do it, comfortable daily and handles nicely

 

u dont need more than 450/350 for your height goal, even you can get 300 in the rear which will give you a more comfortable ride.
to compensate for the lower rear spring rate..get a bigger sway bar in the rear and you car should handle great.

good luck

 

450/350 is just fine.


You could do 450/300 if you are worried, but it isn't going to make that big of a difference in ride quality.

 

Where in my statements was there error, grumble? That's one of the key factors of why people tend to put stiffer springs in the front. You should really just put your input and not try and **** on other people, because in the end, it makes you seem like the jackass.

 

1k front / 550 rear
Small or no swaybar front / big swaybar rear
275's front R6 / 225's rear A6
-3 deg camber front / -1 deg camber rear

There is more than one way to skin a cat.

 

Did I call you any names like a juvenile kid would do? Like the ones i have to deal with all day? I responded to you possibly in a way that you did not expect but no where did I insult you personally. That you took it that way is YOUR issue. Not mine. I have the right to disagree with whomever I want to or state whatever the **** I want on a public forum and do so without reprisals from people that get their feelings hurt because someone disagreed with them. Frankly I'm getting pretty friggin' tired of the fact that people cannot deal with someone disagreeing with them and reacting like an immature baby when they do.

The fact is the lower you drop the car the higher the springs rates will have to be ALL THE WAY AROUND to prevent ALL KINDS of issues. The higher spring rates go in the front of the car because of the weight of the front of the car? Nonsense. It's all about how you use your car. People actually prefer and even need higher spring rates in the rear due to way they want the car to handle. Smacking UCAs and scraping oil pans and headers are because you're an idiot that prefers form over function and appearance over functionality.

Higher spring rates are preferred in front because the majority of the population cannot drive a car that oversteers. If you're one of those and have ever driven in a car that does then you know that feeling when you first experience oversteer for the first time and your heart jumps into your throat, your ******* puckers up and afterwards you drive home like an old lady scared to death of your own car.

So yeah, when I said your thinking was mostly erroneous and now add full of speculation I know what the **** I was talking about.

 

But you're wrong about this. Ignoring differences in suspension geometry, the reason Honda suspensions are stiffer in front is because they carry half their weight over the front axle. As weight increases, a stiffer spring is needed to maintain ride frequency. This is why a 350 lb spring in the rear rides so harshly relative to a 350 lb spring in front.

Even stock spring rates, which are almost exactly twice as stiff in the front as in the rear are not enough to totally equalize ride frequency. Integras for example still have a slightly higher frequency in the rear even on stock rates. It takes a rather large disparity in sway bar sizes to generate the understeer tendency we associate with stock suspensions. Look what happens when you pair a 24 mm front sway with a 23 mm rear sway. Even with stock rates you suddenly have a car that is very close to neutral handling.

So while the weight distribution of the car isn't the ONLY consideration in chosing spring rates, it's incorrect to say that it doesn't have a major effect.

 

You of all people know that I know this. Hence the reply "mostly erroneous". I know it's a factor. I am stating that the conjecture that the springs with the higher spring rates go in the front simply because of weight is not totally accurate. If it is then you cannot explain how people are running softer springs in front, stiffer springs in the rear, to promote oversteer and not scraping the undercarriage or denting up strut towers.

By that bit of schoolyard logic then the weight of the engine is not supported when running ANY soft spring in the front and we know that is not true. Example; 350f/500r. OMG! The soft springs have to go in the rear or the weight isn't supported. What? 350lb springs are more than capable. We know this. That's what I'm saying is nonsense.

The fact of the matter is that even the soft spring rates that are stock are sufficient to carry the weight of the engine. Every combo mentioned by the OP is in essence overkill; MORE than enough to address the front ends weight issue. So if that point is moot then all we're REALLY talking about is handling. In any case what I am saying is oversimplified and I'd rather not debate geometry and frequencies.

And even with a daily I've seen people run higher combo in the rear because that was their preference. Yet I've always stated that if you don't know how to dive a car that oversteers then you shouldn't. And unless I get attacked again that's all I'm going to say on the matter.

 

This is super interesting Forum. i've had the same question, in for more knowledge on this.
recently got yellows, lookin to get GC coils. also dd. not thread jackin. but heres a question for the forum. might be a noob question but: what spring rates are DD and what are for track/performance? I understand theres lotta factors but lets put it in the case of KINGDEEs drop. bout 1 finger gap. i understand you need enough stiffness for a certain drop but at what point is it too stiff?

 

Too stiff is when your spine shoots out through the top of your head. Everything you're asking about is purely subjective.

Again. Don't over complicate ****. That's the problem people have with trying to pick a suspension setup.

 

Your limitation will be your shocks.

Iirc, Koni yellows can't handle much over 400lb without dying quickly or needing a revalve, so try 400 front, 300 rear.

Also keep in mind that stiffness may get transmitted to the chassis as you go up in spring rates.

I will say that the dampers are really what makes you "feel" the stiffness or harshness of the ride.

 

Try more like 550.

 

Read the links in my sig.

 

Thanks Black R, this has been real enlightening.