I've always wanted to try to do a little bit of port work. About a week ago, I finally got around to it. Wasn't trying to accomplish anything beyond cleaning up what was already there, so maybe it wouldn't even be considered porting. I build custom kitchens by trade and mess around with cars on the side so what I call porting might be referred to as something totally different by someone that is actually in the business. Anyway, I just wanted to post up a before and after picture of an intake port and see what y'all think. Criticism is welcomed. My apologies if the pics are a little on the big side, I am working with a pretty big monitor and they look fine, but I could see them being a bit overbearing if you are on a small net book or something.

 

Looks good, real good..

 

I'd say you did a damn good job! Not exactly even on each side but a very nice clean up.

 

Thanks a lot guys!

I'm trying to decide if it's the picture that makes it look uneven or if it is actually uneven. I have been staring at it in person for the last 10 minutes and I'm having a really hard time deciding if I can actually see a difference. I'm going to look at it again when I've gotten more than a couple hours of sleep. Thanks for pointing that out

 

Looks good man. I was wondering if i should have my head ported while it is off my motor. Also, It could be the lighting as well. Often times the lighting will throw reflections that make things look uneven in reflective surfaces.

 

first welding now porting, what can"t you do man!!! i dont know if making your own dingleberry flowbench would give you an answer to how good your work is but its worth looking into i think. by my eyes id say it looks pretty close.

 

Haha, I'm no different than anyone else. For the most part if you set your mind to something, you will always be able to do it with some degree of success. To what degree just varies depending on the amount of time and effort put into what ever project you may be endevoring in. At any rate, thank you for the compliment

I've been toying with the idea of taking it to my buddy to let him flow bench it. If I get some free time I might do it. Chances are it won't happen with this one though. When I do the head for the backup engine, I'll probably get it flow benched because I won't be under any kind of real time constraint.

 

So what do you look for in a port job? What about that makes you guys say it looks good?

(I'm not being critical at all I just want to learn so I might do it myself some day)

 

Best advice I can give is to use a bore gauge and modeling clay..... I have found these to be the best/cheapest tools to get all of your ports to match as closely as possible. Aside from a flow bench and a CNC machine that is...

A flow bench is instrumental to all porting though. If you have access to a flow bench, I suggest that you take advantage of it. How much it flows isn't always the key. Getting all 4 ports/8 valves flowing the same amount is the key.

Those are some really bad casting flaws and OEM seat machining edges in your original picture. Ether that or did you just machine your valve seats for a larger diameter?

 

get to the junk yard and buy one


4ref.
http://theoldone.com/components/cyli...r_head_mod.htm

this guy does 0utstAnding work!:
http://www.azht.net/forum/showthread...=130991&page=2

 

I weirdly felt the strong urge to imagine eating my morning cereal out of those heads while i tried to hide my boner. Or get a big*** chain and strap the head around my neck and be like FLAVAHH FLAVVVV!!! ha. seriously though those things are works of art.

98gsrteg man im just waiting for the day where you'll say to me "Dude quit "

I should stop with my garbage posts...now

 

Those are the questions I'm looking for answers to myself. I was hoping someone like AllMotorMike might see this and offer a few pointers. His work is extremely impressive to me.

@GhostAccord, those are factory fresh seats from 1995. Factory sized valves, head was totally untouched before I got it. I'm still going to run stock sized valves as well. And also good call on the bore gauge, I'll have to break the ye' olde fowler out and see exactly where I'm at in terms of concentricness between ports.

The Endyn work looks pretty impressive.

@GoodSkoolRevltn, It's all good bro BTW, every time I see your screen name I think it's OldSkool not GoodSkool. Damn undiagnosed dyslexia. Haha

 

For a beginner its not bad. I've seen some HORRIBLE diy jobs. Its hard to say how good or bad it is due to the picture and light, however it doesn't look like you harmed anything really. Rule of thumb when diy keep it simple. This type of work requires concentration,hand control, and lots of experience. Keep trying and you will be able to tell if its truely good.get a good valve job put her together and give it a go.

 

What did you use the port the head?

 

You guys like his, check out my garage pics... or explain how to post pics. I've got 12+ hours in mine. Steady hand/patience is key. It makes the top end RIP!

 

I'd love to see yours if you have the time to post up a picture or two. Posting pics is much easier than I initially thought. If you reply to this thread, click on "go advanced" not quick reply, then if you look to the right of the font size selection you'll see a paper clip looking icon. Click on it, then click on one of the choose file buttons, find your picture, then click upload.

I agree that it takes a steady hand and a lot of patience. I spent about 3 hours a night and I was able to get one port done per night. I'm pretty slow at it so I'll stick to my day job Lol

@Homemadepower, I used single cut carbide burrs to start with after I decided cartridge rolls were taking way too long, then I went to 80 grit cartridge rolls to clean the ports up from the carbide burrs, then I finished them off with 120 grit cartridge rolls. Also worth noting that I played around with an old trash head before I attempted to do anything on the head I intended to use. I'm glad I did because it gave me a really good feel for how quickly the carbide burrs and cartridge rolls would take material off. As I already mentioned, the key in my opinion is to just take your time and study pictures of what people that actually know what they are doing have done.

I got these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-8-Double-C...item589b6c1d04 just in a single cut version for aluminum. I had to call the company direct to order them. If you want to go into the head with them, you'll need ones that are at least 4" long. I just went with the 6" ones because I figured I could easily cut them down if they were too long. They ended up being fine.

I got this kit from summitracing: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1060 and this mandrel kit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pow-pow351510 I figured I'd just get the assortment of cartridge rolls because I really didn't know what ones I would use the most of. I ended up using about 4 different sizes from the kit so in the future I would just order those peticular ones from one of the woodworking distributors I buy stuff through. If your on a budget, start with just the cartridge roll kit and then decide if you want to pick up a few burrs.

I leaned pretty heavily to what the fellow in the videos I'm going to link below had to say.

 

It still won't let me put up pics for some reason- just drop in my garage, that's where my pics are. Once I click on the paperclip, it opens new window. Then I click on any image(tried multiple) button, it does nothing... oh well, thanks anyway. Nice work btw!

 

finger it bro.

you can feel the uneven surface even slightest dips or bumps.

 

@raverx3m- what cams u runnin- I have very similar setup only mine is milled .010 and has gsr 10.6 pistons w/4-1 header.

 

buddy club 3+
and i also did what you did but not that much
i didnt go past the casting floor leaving the ports same shape.
i only cleaned up around valve seats and the casting lines. same with intake manifold

but like i said if you run your finger through the port few times you will feel if its smooth or has bumps.

 

Ok well oem head is still a virgin, so round 2 next year. The short side radius had quite a few flaws- they turned out very nice though. Buddy club 3's are bigger than S2pro1's I believe? I'm just nervous about droppin those in w/head mill of 10thousandths... did you change out your LMA's? I know S2's have issues if those aren't certain ones(I think spring type lma)

 

If you are concerned about those cams and the valve to valve or piston to valve clearances just drop the cams in and clay the motor. No more need to be nervous.

The short turn radius is the area of the port that can most drastically change the flow with higher lift cams from mid to high RPMs. It's best not to play with this area, the throat or valve seats without knowing what you are doing. Or being able to monitor what your changes have done.

DIY porting by eye and judging the port geometry based solely on the look of the surface could actually cost you flow & velocity in the end.