I have a 1996 Honda Civic Dx and i wanna know where are the coolant temp sensors and which each one is called, any help??

 

Here is a picture of the two coolant temperature sensors. Number 11 and 13 in the diagram. The smaller sensor, number 11 is the sensor for the temp gauge on your dash. The larger sensor, number 13 tells your ecu the temp of the coolant.
Number 11 is called Thermo Unit Part number 37750-PH2-014

Number 13 is called water temperature sensor part number 37870-PJ7-003

Both sensors will be on the left side of the cylinder head when looking at your car from the front, very easy to find and replace.

 

do you know if http://www.ebay.com/itm/390480256309...84.m1439.l2649 is the number 13 one??

 

Yes that is the number 13 sensor. But I cannot guarentee it will be a good quality part. For a 10 dollars more you can order it from a honda dealer like this one. http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/p...hermostat-sohc

 

i think my works fine its just my brother yanked it and pulled the wires from the plug so i need a plug but i don't know where i can get one

 

You can get a plug at the junkyard and splice it into your harness or you can re-pin the plug.

 

i went to the junk yard a few days ago and allllllthe civics engines were gone. on ebay they have 2 i found but they're different , which one is the correct one??
1. http://www.ebay.com/itm/230927993352...84.m1438.l2649
2.http://www.ebay.com/itm/271143306193...84.m1438.l2649

 

Which one looks like your plug? You've got it for comparison. Also, note that the wire colors are different in the two links you've listed. One looks green/yellow and the other looks to be green/red.

Seriously though, it's not hard to re-pin plugs. Radio Shack carries similar pins that will fit in the plugs. It'll be cheaper and you won't have to wait for the part to ship.

 

Also, the first link says it's compatible with your vehicle. I don't have much ebay buying experience so I can't tell you whether or not to trust that information, though.

 

i got it on ebay, i compared mine and i found a match

 

Although Ebay doesnt necessarily have a great rep from the parts theysell. They're pretty good with "Does this fit your car" thing

 

take needle nose pliers and pull the white piece from inside the plug then push the pins back into the plug and push the white cap u pulled from inside the plug back in and this will lock the pins back in place. red/white toward the top of the plug where the clip is and the green/blk wire i believe it is is below that wire. goodluck

 

Honda dealer has/can get new pins to rebuild your plug. Take the plug down there and get new pins. Pry the plug apart and with some wire stripper/crimpers you can make your plug like new again.

 

Hi, I have a 2000 Honda CR-V EX with 175k miles. I've been having this crazy issue with the vehicle starting nice when cold, but it will only crank, but not start, when engine has warmed up.
I've done the following things to the vehicle so far:
1. Replaced the Fuel Filter.
2. Checked Spark Plugs and gaps: look ok. BTW, Plugs and wires were changed 1 yr or so ago with less than 10k usage.
3. Replaced Ignition Coil.
4. Replaced Ignition Control Module (Delphi).
5. Replaced Distributor Rotor - the one it had appeared to the the original.
6. Cleaned up IAC :seemed cleaned (Old one replaced it for a new one 5k miles ago).
7. Cleaned the entire throttle valve and its components - a little carbon built-up but not horrific.
8. Cleaned up the fuel injectors and housing and once cleaned up, replaced with new O-rings. Each of those old injectors

Car seems to be more responsive now. When cold, it starts beautifully! HOWEVER, the original problem is STILL there. Once the car is warmed up, and you turn it off, it will ONLY crank, but it won't start-up. I've been only able to start it once when warm but pressing the gas pedal and going nuts at it. Then it will quickly choke on itself, then die again to no hope. If I let it cool down for an hour or so, then it will start up like no other. I recall seeing in one blog comment that sometimes the main culprit for this can be the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. In my case, it'll be the Delphi TS10180 (B000CGMA3C). I will try to flush the coolant and replace it today. But I was hoping to get some reassurance or any additional inputs you may all have in case this sensor exchange brings me the same outcome.....

Last but not least: Fuel pump appears to click a bit when igniting vehicle. Perhaps a weak fuel pump? Can it fail AFTER the car warms up though?

Honda-tech forums are so valuable: your feedback is appreciated and always welcome!

Thank you in advance,
Ron
nflcoordinator@yahoo.com

 

An UPDATE to my earlier email in hopes to help those who read these threads:

1. Changed the Coolant Temperature Sensor. Flushed the system. Again, same result. Car started wonderfully, took it out and drove it for a good 10 miles. Turned it off. Then tried to turn on... no luck! Cranked but no start. Tried to start it many times. Decided to depress the clutch pedal just a bit while trying to crank/start it, and it would finally engage. However, it would have a jerky behavior when changing gears - either not getting sufficient fuel source or perhaps too much gas in the injectors (similar to "flooded" symptoms).

2. Replaced the (3rd party) fuel pump, since the new one seemed extremely old - original). You need to disconnect battery, remove fuel pressure (removing the bold on top of the fuel filter) and cap off your fuel tank; then, remove the rear passenger seat (driver's side) by removing 4 bolts. Pretty straightforward, but make sure to pay close attention to the way the original fuel pump is inside your tank. Carefully pay attention to the lever-arm; that's the one that will dictate your fuel level/gauge. Also make sure your car is not full of gas (2/3rd or lower would be better - less messy). Car seemed to run even smoother, but again, same "not starting" once engine was hot.

3. Replaced the (3rd party) solenoid/starter combo. Disconnect battery, remove your air filter assembly for easier access. 2 (14mm) bolts should do the job to remove that assembly from the engine block. Also use a 12 mm for removing the positive terminal to the solenoid. Also remove one small connector manually. MAKE SURE you buy the right solenoid / starter combo: it varies between manual and automatic transmissions.

4. Car now works splendidly!

Thank you for your attention, and I hope it's useful information. If you have any questions about what I've described above, shoot me an email anytime.

SportsFan
nflcoordinator@yahoo.com

 

thanks for the update!! so in the end it was a bad starter it looks like. what did the teeth look like on the starter? was it the armature not engaging or it wasn't spinning enough to turn the flywheel? sure if you know, because now it's starting the car perfectly, just asking..