no hazard lights, horn or anything. the battery is brand new, replaced 2 grounds and still nothing. I can bump start it, but it takes for ever to get it to turn over. when it does finally turn over it idles at 2300.

 

If you can push start the engine, then you do have some electrical power.

Check the fuses for the hazard lights and horn.

Also check whether the rubber stopper that presses on the starter switch at the top of clutch pedal has fallen out.

 

fuses seem to be fine tested with multimeter. the rubber stopper is there as well. the problem is when i put the key in and turn it to on, nothing happens. When the clutch is depressed and i turn the key, i get the occasional click under the hood but no power. Also i will add that when i hooked up jumper cables you can't put the negative on as it sparks like no tomorrow

 

Okay you have a no-crank problem. The horn/hazard problem may be a separate issue.

If the starter solenoid always clicks but the starter motor doesn't crank when the key is turned to ON(III), then the starter solenoid is getting voltage.

Have you cleaned and tightened the large starter motor cable connections on the hood fuse box and starter?

It's also possible that your starter is bad.

 

i will check the cables, also when i say hazard/horn those are just 2 of the things, I actually have no power at all to the dash. if i open the door and put the key in there is no beep either

 

When you turn the key from off to ON(II), do the cluster warning lights (CEL, oil pressure, charge system) turn on? If so, does the CEL turn off after 2 seconds?

Do the headlights, parking lights, and brake lights works?

What electrical does work?

Do you have a multimeter or test light?

 

nothing turns on. When i push start it, it takes about roughly 1/4 mile to 1/2 mile to finally get it to turn over. Yes i have a multimeter and i have tested fuses. because the battery sparks at the negative when jumpers are attached im assuming it is a ground issue somewhere. but again im not to up on electrical

 

Do 4 different voltage measurements on hood fuse 43:

Hood fuse 43 is for the hazard lights. Voltage test each of the two test tabs of the installed fuse. For the test, compare using either the transmission or the negative battery post as ground in the test. There are 4 total voltage measurements. Post the 4 voltage numbers.

 

that last part is the problem. It should not arc like that. First thing to check is that you have the positive and negative cables on the proper terminals on the battery, it almost sounds like you have them backwards. If that checks out then continue to follow the connections and make sure they are all correct and in good shape.

 

the cables are not backwards, the car was running last week and now it is not lol. i will post the numbers shortly. what i do not understand is that i should be showing some power if i can bump it.

 

would a bad ground somewhere cause this as well? also i forgot to mention when this happened last week or so, i came back to it 2 days later and it started just fine. drove it about 30 miles and now im here.

 

The voltage tests I suggested will tell you whether you have a bad ground, among other things. The tests are fast and easy. Post the numbers.

 

here are the numbers from under the hood
80A Battery- 5.7 left 5.7 right
20A Horn- 12.1 left 3.0 right
10A Hazard- 4.1 left 13.2 right
40A Lights- 3.5 left 3.5 right
50A IG- 11.7 left 11.7 right
30A Heater Motor- 6.2 left 6.2 right
50A Option- 3.0 left 3.0 right
20A Condenser Motor 3.6 left 3.6 right
15A ECU- 13.4 left 3.6 right
7.5A Back Up- 10.5 left 10.5 right
15A Cooling Fan- 3.0 left 1.8 right
30A RR Defroster- 27.3 left 8.6 right

I will post the ones under the dash shortly, I don't know much about electrical but i would assume these numbers are off

 

^These readings say that the battery is low on charge or dead.

^All of these readings are unexpectedly low. The main concern is the 80A Battery fuse reading as nearly all power to your car systems pass through this fuse.

My immediate recommendation:

• Charge or replace the battery.
• Clean and tighten the battery connectors/posts, as well as the battery ground wire attached to the chassis.

^These three fuses appear to be bad.

27.3V reading doesn't make sense. Was it 27.3 mV? Redo test.

Possibly bad fuse. Retest when other more concerning voltage issues are fixed.

 

ok thank you, i will also add when i hook up jumper cables to the battery the ground wire from t3 to g2 smokes and i have already replaced this once before

 

Post clear pictures of your battery and also of the parts that are smoking.

 

Were/are the jumper or battery cables reversed?

 

no they are not

 

ok, so i got the smoking to stop, and replaced the grounds that were fried, as well as a few other wires. turns out the battery was not taking a charge, returned it and got another one for free. now when i went to hook up the new battery, the battery connectors would arc like no tomorrow.

btw. i did what you said ronj and i did get it to turn over prior to exchanging the battery with jumpers