1994 Honda accord Cold start, coolant reservoir and lil bit Overheating
I am having the following issue:
Coolant reservoir is full, while i always leave it between min/max mark, seems like coolant is pushed to it, but never sucked back again. Car shows the gauge in normal temperature range, but sometimes in stop and go traffic, temp starts to rise till half or 3/4 of the gauge. Then fan kicks in and gauge starts to go down till 1/2 or at normal point.
I have bled/burped the system many times through the bleeder valve, fans do come on, switch 'A' and 'B' both are new. On a cold start, if I turn on the AC, seems like both fan do not come on, is it an issue? Also, I have an aftermarket thermostat(bought from advance auto), could it be a problem?
I have replaced the radiator recently and radiator cap with this one :
Shepherd Auto Parts 1 Row w/o EOC w/ TOC OEM Style Complete Replacement Radiator : Amazon.com : Automotive
This random overheating and full reservoir are driving me nuts, any help or advise would be greatly appreciated.
Can it be a bad radiator cap, thermostat, issue with coolant reservoir or HG?
P.S: On a cold start, while sitting on the driver seat, I can hear a sound like water is flowing from somewhere or a light water circulation sound, kinda hard to explain
I have done search/research and trying to troubleshoot to fix this issue, so looking forward to you now
Thanks guys!
Coolant reservoir is full, while i always leave it between min/max mark, seems like coolant is pushed to it, but never sucked back again. Car shows the gauge in normal temperature range, but sometimes in stop and go traffic, temp starts to rise till half or 3/4 of the gauge. Then fan kicks in and gauge starts to go down till 1/2 or at normal point.
I have bled/burped the system many times through the bleeder valve, fans do come on, switch 'A' and 'B' both are new. On a cold start, if I turn on the AC, seems like both fan do not come on, is it an issue? Also, I have an aftermarket thermostat(bought from advance auto), could it be a problem?
I have replaced the radiator recently and radiator cap with this one :
This random overheating and full reservoir are driving me nuts, any help or advise would be greatly appreciated.
Can it be a bad radiator cap, thermostat, issue with coolant reservoir or HG?
P.S: On a cold start, while sitting on the driver seat, I can hear a sound like water is flowing from somewhere or a light water circulation sound, kinda hard to explain
I have done search/research and trying to troubleshoot to fix this issue, so looking forward to you now
Thanks guys!
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 589
Likes: 0
From: Apple Valley, San Bernadino County, Ca.
I would put a OEM temperature thermostat back in it. That is most likely why it's getting hotter than usual and the system probably isn't bled very well. Make sure the heater is turned up to it's hottest setting while filling and bleeding the system
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I would put a OEM temperature thermostat back in it. That is most likely why it's getting hotter than usual and the system probably isn't bled very well. Make sure the heater is turned up to it's hottest setting while filling and bleeding the system
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Gates , motorad, stant or Honda dealer one?
Whose the OE manufacturer?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gates-33569-...eb0c29&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gates-33568-...934926&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gates-33569S...934446&vxp=mtr
Also, 180 or 195F?
Here is the update, no fan run, if I put the temperature to the coldest while turning on the AC, I have tried on a cold start, as well as when car has reached operating temperature or when the gauge is rising towards the 'Hot' region.
Is this an issue or a problem? Because I can see fans running and kicking, when the temperature gauge rise.
BTW, since last year AC does not work, not sure if fans are related to it? Forgive my ignorance
Because of all of your help and guidance, my car has passed emission test today with flying colors, so here is a "BIG" thanks to all of you guys and the forum.
Is this an issue or a problem? Because I can see fans running and kicking, when the temperature gauge rise.
BTW, since last year AC does not work, not sure if fans are related to it? Forgive my ignorance
Because of all of your help and guidance, my car has passed emission test today with flying colors, so here is a "BIG" thanks to all of you guys and the forum.
Always go OEM honda thermostat. Those aftermarket thermostats don't have a failsafe on em and some have the wrong opening temperature.
You really can't go wrong with the correct OEM Honda thermostat in your car. If it fails it will fail open and you won't damage your engine.
My initial guess is that thermostat is not the right one for your car. Just go to the dealer and tell em ur car and get the correct one and put it in and make sure to bleed the air out.
Just do this. Jack the front of your car up. Turn the heater temperature dial in your car to full red. Open the bleeder valve. Fill the radiator til it comes out with a full stream through the bleeder valve. Close the valve. Fill up the radiator all the way. Then you should be good to go. If not report back.
If it fixes your problem, still report back.
You really can't go wrong with the correct OEM Honda thermostat in your car. If it fails it will fail open and you won't damage your engine.
My initial guess is that thermostat is not the right one for your car. Just go to the dealer and tell em ur car and get the correct one and put it in and make sure to bleed the air out.
Just do this. Jack the front of your car up. Turn the heater temperature dial in your car to full red. Open the bleeder valve. Fill the radiator til it comes out with a full stream through the bleeder valve. Close the valve. Fill up the radiator all the way. Then you should be good to go. If not report back.
If it fixes your problem, still report back.
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Always go OEM honda thermostat. Those aftermarket thermostats don't have a failsafe on em and some have the wrong opening temperature.
You really can't go wrong with the correct OEM Honda thermostat in your car. If it fails it will fail open and you won't damage your engine.
My initial guess is that thermostat is not the right one for your car. Just go to the dealer and tell em ur car and get the correct one and put it in and make sure to bleed the air out.
Just do this. Jack the front of your car up. Turn the heater temperature dial in your car to full red. Open the bleeder valve. Fill the radiator til it comes out with a full stream through the bleeder valve. Close the valve. Fill up the radiator all the way. Then you should be good to go. If not report back.
If it fixes your problem, still report back.
You really can't go wrong with the correct OEM Honda thermostat in your car. If it fails it will fail open and you won't damage your engine.
My initial guess is that thermostat is not the right one for your car. Just go to the dealer and tell em ur car and get the correct one and put it in and make sure to bleed the air out.
Just do this. Jack the front of your car up. Turn the heater temperature dial in your car to full red. Open the bleeder valve. Fill the radiator til it comes out with a full stream through the bleeder valve. Close the valve. Fill up the radiator all the way. Then you should be good to go. If not report back.
If it fixes your problem, still report back.


Question No fan comes, if I put the temperature to the coldest while turning on the AC, I have tried on a cold start, as well as when car has reached operating temperature or when the gauge is rising towards the 'Hot' region? Is this a problem?
What's the OEM thermostat part number?
It's very hard to predict what's the culprit when you have aftermarket radiator, and thermostat. IMHO...if you can't get a new oem honda radiator, then you should look for one at a junk yard. However, I advice you to get a new genuine honda thermostat and the Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel. Most tech uses Lisle funnel or something similar to bleed the system. Bleeder valve in the 1990-97 Accord is not a reliable source to get all the trapped air out.
For some reason, I am also leaning towards the OEM thermostat.
Where do you find it for $15? It is ~$31 at the local dealer.
What you guys think about this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-02-Honda-...548a93&vxp=mtr
This one does not look OEM, thoughts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Thermost...f865d2&vxp=mtr
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Where do you find it for $15? It is ~$31 at the local dealer.
What you guys think about this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/92-02-Honda-...548a93&vxp=mtr
This one does not look OEM, thoughts?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Thermost...f865d2&vxp=mtr
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Manchester Motorsports:
Ref. Number Part Number Description Price Ea. Qty Req.
004 19301-P08-315 THERMOSTAT ASSY. (FUJI THOMPSON) , THERMOSTAT ASSY. $17.36 Each
004 19301-P08-316 THERMOSTAT ASSY. (NIPPON THERMOSTAT) , THERMOSTAT ASSY. $17.36 Each
Ref. Number Part Number Description Price Ea. Qty Req.
004 19301-P08-315 THERMOSTAT ASSY. (FUJI THOMPSON) , THERMOSTAT ASSY. $17.36 Each
004 19301-P08-316 THERMOSTAT ASSY. (NIPPON THERMOSTAT) , THERMOSTAT ASSY. $17.36 Each
19301-paa-306
I have 1994 Honda Accord EX A/T(2 Dr Coupe).
Out of curiosity, how much is the t-stat on the link?(I can't open it, if it's Majestic Honda, including S&H it's nearly $30)
It's ~$20 on amazon, trying to find something cheaper than that

Going to replace the t-stat first and will post the results and update.
Thanks again for all the help
16.49 plus shipping
normally people don't sell dealer parts for a living on ebay...unless it's a random user selling something they don't need
normally people don't sell dealer parts for a living on ebay...unless it's a random user selling something they don't need
Replaced the Radiator cap, seems like overflowing of the tank issue has been resolved.
But car still seems to overheat, have a look on the attached pictures.
I face this overheating issue only in stop and go traffic, at a stop or when I put the car in 'park' after a 1 hour drive.
Only thing left is, Thermostat, since I have replaced A/B switch, radiator, hoses.
Also, if I touch the upper/lower radiator hoses, they are HOT, like hell
Are all pointers towards the Thermostat or something else?
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 589
Likes: 0
From: Apple Valley, San Bernadino County, Ca.
A failing water pump provides inadequate water flow/pressure causing the car to over heat. If it's leaking from the pump is always a sure sign that it's time to replace. Even if you remove the water pump and look inside the water pump inlet tube or into the block (i have seen this before) you might be able to see something stuck/wedged in there or hard water buildup.
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A failing water pump provides inadequate water flow/pressure causing the car to over heat. If it's leaking from the pump is always a sure sign that it's time to replace. Even if you remove the water pump and look inside the water pump inlet tube or into the block (i have seen this before) you might be able to see something stuck/wedged in there or hard water buildup.
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Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android
this thread is filled with very misleading info... i am sorry but it is true. The OP does NOT NEED a OEM HONDA T STAT OR radiator to fix the problem he is having! Brand of parts is completely irrelevant. we are talking about a stock f22 here people.
need to do a dye test JUST to confirm it has NO exhaust gases in the coolant
need to check the temp of the lower hose when it starts running hot, is the bottom rad hose super hot or is it not too hot to touch?
is the TEMP sender working or has it gone bad and is giving a wrong reading?
is the coolant a 50/50 mixture with water or does it have 100% pure green in it?
so many things it could be, brand of parts here is not gonna help the OP, it will only waste time and money throwing new parts at the car hoping to find a miracle fix. let;s source the problem and fix it.
need to do a dye test JUST to confirm it has NO exhaust gases in the coolant
need to check the temp of the lower hose when it starts running hot, is the bottom rad hose super hot or is it not too hot to touch?
is the TEMP sender working or has it gone bad and is giving a wrong reading?
is the coolant a 50/50 mixture with water or does it have 100% pure green in it?
so many things it could be, brand of parts here is not gonna help the OP, it will only waste time and money throwing new parts at the car hoping to find a miracle fix. let;s source the problem and fix it.
From what you are describing i can tell you that your w/p is fine.
Last edited by sleepyaccord96; Apr 10, 2013 at 03:49 PM. Reason: edit
if the w/p is bad it will either weep coolant out of it's "pee" hole and you would see coolant dripping from the drivers side of the car. If the impellar on the w/p isn't turning it would almost instantly run hot and would never cool down with driving (not at idle and at a red light)
From what you are describing i can tell you that your w/p is fine.
From what you are describing i can tell you that your w/p is fine.


Couple of things:
1- It's F22B1 stock car and no mods or anything.
2- When I replaced the radiator, like 6-8 months ago, in the beginning there was lil bit coolant coming out of the W/P hole(for 4-5 days), but then it stopped. No more coolant leaks from W/P or any other place, except the coolant reservoir being full.
3- Car drives like a charm, temp gauge is at ideal while driving.
4- I attached the pictures from today, in which you can see temp gauge climbing up, that's after a drive of nearly 1 hr stop/go traffic, I touched upper and lower radiator hoses and they both were HOT, like even hard to touch.
5- When I turned the car off, fans do came on for few mins, trying to cool the engine.

Sorry for being so detailed, trying to fix this overheating, it's driving me crazy

Thanks for helping out bros

If it's overheating on a stop/go traffic, it's most likely your cooling fan being inoperative. Check out the fuse and the relays for it. After the fuse check, give the fan motor power and ground to see if the motor actually works, before proceeding. Passenger side fan is for the radiator while driver side fan is for the condenser.
A little bit of coolant at the weep hole is normal according to Honda.
A little bit of coolant at the weep hole is normal according to Honda.
Okay you need to go back to square one. Start the car from a cold start and let it idle. As the temperature gets to normal temp, feel the lower radiator hose. If it's getting hot the thermostat is opening and that is not the issue. Continue to monitor as the temperature rises above normal. Are the fans coming on ? If not, then the fans are the issue. If the fans come on, then it really can only be the water pump isn't moving the water around the engine as it should.
I can not be any more clearer on only buying OEM Honda thermostats. Don't try saving 20 dollars on a part that if if fails in 25k miles as it did on my car, and you don't catch it within a few seconds can ruin your engine.
Look at my signature, the only reason I was forced to do a swap was because the thermostat I bought from Oreilly auto failed after ONLY 25k miles. I can not be any more clearer on that. Only 25k miles. It failed closed and the car overheated within seconds. An OEM Honda thermostat will last for atleast 65k miles. AND even if it does fail, it will fail closed and your car won't overheat. It will just run cold which isn't that big of a deal in the end.
I can not be any more clearer on only buying OEM Honda thermostats. Don't try saving 20 dollars on a part that if if fails in 25k miles as it did on my car, and you don't catch it within a few seconds can ruin your engine.
Look at my signature, the only reason I was forced to do a swap was because the thermostat I bought from Oreilly auto failed after ONLY 25k miles. I can not be any more clearer on that. Only 25k miles. It failed closed and the car overheated within seconds. An OEM Honda thermostat will last for atleast 65k miles. AND even if it does fail, it will fail closed and your car won't overheat. It will just run cold which isn't that big of a deal in the end.



